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Discussion Starter #1
I have been told two polar opposite methods as to how to break in your engine.

The obvious, which is from the manual, is to break it in easy.

The other, more controversial method, is to run your engine hard to seal the rings. Further information can be found here: (Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power)

My engine on my ZX6r has about 130 miles on it. I'm wondering if it is too late for the 'run the engine hard method' or if that method is actually beneficial at all.

Also... Oil change at 600? Or 1000? :O

Thoughts?
 

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I have been told two polar opposite methods as to how to break in your engine.

The obvious, which is from the manual, is to break it in easy.

The other, more controversial method, is to run your engine hard to seal the rings. Further information can be found here: (Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power)

My engine on my ZX6r has about 130 miles on it. I'm wondering if it is too late for the 'run the engine hard method' or if that method is actually beneficial at all.

Also... Oil change at 600? Or 1000? :O

Thoughts?

NEVER EVER have a I heard run it hard... As far as I know on a car and I think motorcycle is similar.. run it easy and oil change at 500, then 1000
 

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An old technique from long ago motoring when you had to drive a car at no more than 30mph for a 1000 miles was "whipping it in" where when you reached a down hill you let it coast up to say 40- 45mph and the let it drop back to 30. The motor is basically unloaded on a down hill run. Have done this with my bikes. Have also thrown in an early oil change before the required one.

gammac
 

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Never ever run the engine hard from new.... Always run in nice and steady go by wot the manual says...
 

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Run her in hard....best way! the engine is run in on a bench anyway!
 

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at 130 miles you can start to run it hard. the running in period may have been ok 30 years ago when tolerances were not what they are today. oil is far far superior, metals have also come a long way with nikasil etc etc.
the main issue of running it hard at the start is not to let the internals get way too hot, run it hard for 5 seconds then let the internals catch up for 15 seconds or more before you run it hard again. the temp gauge means nothing here :bigthumb:
warm it up thoroughly before running it hard.

i have never run bikes in by the book and have always had good engines...
my kart engines were run in on the dyno, full bore from a new rebuild :)
 

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Man, your trying to start a religious war with this post right?

I've heard people have had great success with both methods. I'd say pick one and run with it. The only way your going to know is to do it. Now, if you chose to run it like you stole it, don't reveal that to the dealer if you take in for warranty service. ;)

Change the oil at 600 and you will be fine either way.
 

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I bought Bonnie brand new & never spending that much money on anything before, I broke her in by the book from paranoia.

After that I thrashed the ever loving hell out of that poor engine like a two dollar whore. BUT. Always stayed on top of maintenance. I sold her with over 30K on the clock. The valves were still in check & she ran like a scalded fuckin' dog.

Just sayin' & yes, I know they get run to redline right off the assembly line.
 

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At 130 miles the bike is already broken in. You have between the first 30 and 50 miles before the rings are set.

Don't baby the thing from new, that's an old old method that was good before engine machining technology was as advanced as it is today. It's 2011 people, the machinig they do these days is WAY better than it used to be and the quality of oil is also WAY better than it used to be.

I say ride the bike from brand new the same way you're going to ride it from then on. Just get on the bike and treat it like it's already broken in. You're not going to hurt the thing. I would suggest though to avoid cruising down the interstate for the first 50 miles or so since that constant rpm/constant intake pressure is what's bad for breaking in engines, just as they point out in the website the OP posted a link to. Varying rpm, up and down, a hard pull here and there, is the way to go about it. Basically kinda sorta back road fun or in town riding with some hard pulls (just be careful of others and cops). A track is an ideal place, but we all don't have the luxury of going to one whenever we like. I personally will be doing a wheelie leaving the dealership after my next new sport bike purchase. ;-)

Oh and change the oil at 600 miles, them again at 1000. Then do every 3000 (conventional oil) or 5000 (synthetic) miles thereafter. You can run synthetic from brand new, but you're spending more money dumping the oil so often at first. So really that's up to the owner. Waiting to use synthetic after so many miles for whatever reason is a myth.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for your help guys!
 

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looks like good info here, i was told to ride it like normal out the door, but also varying rpms as stated above,by the maintenance manager at my dealership. Only have 260 miles on it so far and have yet to go over 8000rpm, i guess i'm going to have to start modifying my "normal riding" and enjoy it a little more now :bigsmile:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I love the color scheme on your 6, Meghan. That green just pops against that black.
Thanks! It's just the standard Kawasaki green. :blush:
 

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I personally will be doing a wheelie leaving the dealership after my next new sport bike purchase. ;-)
that has got to be the greatest way to ride the bike off the forecourt....love to be there and see there faces ....:bigthumb:
 

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I personally rode mine like a raped ape. The dealership was rite next to the freeway on ramp. Well I Was at 120 before I was merging on the freeway. By the time I got home I had a voice mail from my salesman that said "we are going to pretend we didn't see that". Theoretically the motor is the strongest when it's brand new. But anyways I say run It hard
 

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Thanks! It's just the standard Kawasaki green. :blush:
I know, but I like that scheme better than the previous year models. :devious

that has got to be the greatest way to ride the bike off the forecourt....love to be there and see there faces ....:bigthumb:
I'll be sure to get my buddy to shoot a short video. Lol.

In all honesty I'm not sure if I will buy another sport bike. I want a cruiser for commuting and my ZZR for spirited rides and track days.

I personally rode mine like a raped ape. The dealership was rite next to the freeway on ramp. Well I Was at 120 before I was merging on the freeway. By the time I got home I had a voice mail from my salesman that said "we are going to pretend we didn't see that". Theoretically the motor is the strongest when it's brand new. But anyways I say run It hard
Lol. One year unlimited mile warranty. Kiss my asssssssssss!
 

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At 130 miles the bike is already broken in. You have between the first 30 and 50 miles before the rings are set.

Don't baby the thing from new, that's an old old method that was good before engine machining technology was as advanced as it is today. It's 2011 people, the machinig they do these days is WAY better than it used to be and the quality of oil is also WAY better than it used to be.

I say ride the bike from brand new the same way you're going to ride it from then on. Just get on the bike and treat it like it's already broken in. You're not going to hurt the thing. I would suggest though to avoid cruising down the interstate for the first 50 miles or so since that constant rpm/constant intake pressure is what's bad for breaking in engines, just as they point out in the website the OP posted a link to. Varying rpm, up and down, a hard pull here and there, is the way to go about it. Basically kinda sorta back road fun or in town riding with some hard pulls (just be careful of others and cops). A track is an ideal place, but we all don't have the luxury of going to one whenever we like. I personally will be doing a wheelie leaving the dealership after my next new sport bike purchase. ;-)

Oh and change the oil at 600 miles, them again at 1000. Then do every 3000 (conventional oil) or 5000 (synthetic) miles thereafter. You can run synthetic from brand new, but you're spending more money dumping the oil so often at first. So really that's up to the owner. Waiting to use synthetic after so many miles for whatever reason is a myth.
This is the truth...........
And FWIW, engines are run at several thousand RPM at final assembly BUT it is done by an electric motor attached to the output shaft.
 

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I was told the first few days take it easy, and then after that ride the bike like you are gonna ride it everyday. I wasn't revving the crap out of it and hitting redline but I wasn't easy on it either. Just hit 10k miles and still going strong
 

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Lol. One year unlimited mile warranty. Kiss my asssssssssss!
I bought mine slightly used (156 miles) so I just got a 90 day warranty. Either way it still runs extremely strong. It did 111rwhp with just a slip on.
 

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i just got mine only put 87 miles on it so far lol (its been way too cold) but my machanic said there was a different viscosity from 10w-40 should i change it or leave it? sorry off topic i know just curious
 
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