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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Trying to figure out the size of the boots they hold the head to the block. closest I got was an 11mm, and that felt really loose. I didn’t want to strip the bolt, so I stopped. Manual says to remove M6 and M9 bolts. Don’t really know if that’s for those bolts of the bolts that hold down the cam covers. Appreciate your help. :)


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Why not purchase the correct bolts directly from a parts house carrying Kawasaki motorcycle engine parts? Head bolts are meant to be replaced with each use, as I understand it. Specific tensile strength, and heat treatment would be involved. Definitely not something that I would want to ‘wing it’ on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Why not purchase the correct bolts directly from a parts house carrying Kawasaki motorcycle engine parts? Head bolts are meant to be replaced with each use, as I understand it. Specific tensile strength, and heat treatment would be involved. Definitely not something that I would want to ‘wing it’ on.
Good advice to replace them, and I definitely will, but first I have to get them off. Might you know the correct size socket to remove? Thanks!
 

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Head bolts are meant to be replaced with each use, as I understand it.
What year are we talking about? I think the washer has to be replaced with each use, but not the bolt itself...

(But what you said still holds -- I would never use a non-oem head bolt.)

I believe there are two different size head bolts -- M6 on the end and M9 throughout.

See below for 2013 vintage:

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That's not a standard 6 flat bolt head (with 6 points), which I would expect is why nothing you have is fitting properly. By my count it appears that bolt head comes to 12 points. As was just posted the head should be M9.....
 

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PS Looks like you are probably talking about 2008...

Wow, for 2008, even the washer does not call for replacement -- lucky you!

From the parts page you can see how many of each you have -- 2x M6 and 10x M9:

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You're not trying to use a 6-point socket are you? You need 12-point for that.

Sorry, I don't know the head socket size for removal -- the M6 and M9 refer to the thread sizes.
For anyone wondering, this was a 12-point 10mm. Couldn’t find it anywhere in a 3/8–only 1/2, and nothing would fit down and reach all of the bolts. However, Home Depot came in clutch and had one that narrowly slid down and grabbed them all.

Am I to understand that these bolts are not oem
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
so, I removed all of the bolts as stated above in the order required. The head doesn’t seem to pop out. It feels like it’s still connected to something. I removed the headers up front so it’s not connected there. Am I missing anything else?

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The head doesn’t seem to pop out. It feels like it’s still connected to something.
Hopefully nobody put goo on your head gasket...

To be sure, you removed 12 head bolts (10 long and 2 short).

In the 2008 service manual, it also calls for you to remove the "front camshaft chain guide bolt (upper)"... Did you remove that? Is yours 2008?

(Strange in later manuals, it also calls for you to remove the "front camshaft chain guide bolt (lower)", as well as the front and rear guides and dowel pin, but not in 2008.)

I usually just use a 2x4 or something soft to pry the head little-by-little evenly around all sides when I'm sure it is free -- but be absolutely sure it is free...

(Maybe someone has a much better suggestion?)

From 2008 service manual:

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hopefully nobody put goo on your head gasket...

To be sure, you removed 12 head bolts (10 long and 2 short).

In the 2008 service manual, it also calls for you to remove the "front camshaft chain guide bolt (upper)"... Did you remove that? Is yours 2008?

(Strange in later manuals, it also calls for you to remove the "front camshaft chain guide bolt (lower)", as well as the front and rear guides and dowel pin, but not in 2008.)

I usually just use a 2x4 or something soft to pry the head little-by-little evenly around all sides when I'm sure it is free -- but be absolutely sure it is free...

(Maybe someone has a much better suggestion?)

From 2008 service manual:

View attachment 112027
that bolt marked as A… it’s right behind the frame. There’s no way I get a hex in that thing. I believe it’s rounded too…

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Pull the engine out of the frame!!!!!!!!!!!!

You willl see you missed 2 external bolts (allenhead and long)
plus the tnesioner and guide etc

everything is a million times easier with the engine on a bench!!!!!!
 
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Were you able to clear the frame when the bolt loosened? There’s barely any room between the bolt head and the frame. Is it a short bolt?
Thanks!
Once the bolt is unscrewed you can remove it until it rests on the frame (you cannot remove it completely) then you must release the lower bolt of the timing chain guide to release it and thus rotate it so that the guide is released from the upper screw
It's 100% possible, that's how I did it......the proof:
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