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Discussion Starter #1
I am hoping this forum will help because my problem seems to be several in one. I got my 2006 ZX6R 2 years ago used. It had LED lights connected to it. Battery dies so I got new battery disconnected the lights. End of last summer I moved so had no time to ride. SO bike sat for a couple weeks. Went to start..Nothing. Charged it. Got it running then rode.3 days later went to get back on and it was dead again. I Went to charge again, and didn't get anything. Gave up because snow was coming soon so I figured I would wait after winter.SO April I got new battery free since old one was in warranty. I brought to local shop to check stator and they said was no problem with it and was probably just old battery. Very reliable shop form what I have heard form other riders. Well we got some Spring snow so sat again. Went to start it... dead. Charged back all was good. Went on family vacation came back. Dead again. Put on charger this time went to start. It made a buzzing noise.( I looked that up on forum and many people said battery). SO I went to show friend two days later. This time when I turn key Lights just flickered on and off. Yesterday I took video and now nothing at all. But the battery says its charged.3rd battery in two years so I am assuming I wasn't unlucky enough to have that many bad batteries. I am going to check fuse today. Any other opinions?
Below Is a video of my current problem

https://youtu.be/e0CaA1IkaOU
 

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Get the bike started. Let it warm up for 5 mins and adjust your idle to about 1600 RPMs. With the engine running, measure the voltage at the battery terminals. What is it?
 

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Cant get the bike to start period so i cant find out
What happens when you try to bump start it?

Put it in second at the top of a hill, make sure the idiot switches are in the correct position. Roll till ~5-6 mph and dump the clutch.

Ey3
 
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OP,

a 10+ year old bike is more likely to have electrical problems than something that is newer..... corrosion can form in all sorts of places most people don't look. As an example, the positive battery cable on my 2005 John Deere lawn mower just died. Lots of corrosion on the end of the cable that attaches to the battery. It ate away so much of the metal that it just eventually fell apart. Battery was fine -- it couldn't give any juice to the starter.

$7 at NAPA for a new positive cable, another $6 for a spray can of terminal preservative, and the tractor runs as strong as it ever has.

My point being, I couldn't make that correction without good information. My digital multimeter told me what was going on with the battery... touching the cable and having it disintegrate, told me the rest.

Get us some pics of the battery connections. some general shots of the under seat tray so we know what sort of a mess we are dealing with would be nice.
 

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I am hoping this forum will help because my problem seems to be several in one. I got my 2006 ZX6R 2 years ago used. It had LED lights connected to it. Battery dies so I got new battery disconnected the lights. End of last summer I moved so had no time to ride. SO bike sat for a couple weeks. Went to start..Nothing. Charged it. Got it running then rode.3 days later went to get back on and it was dead again. I Went to charge again, and didn't get anything. Gave up because snow was coming soon so I figured I would wait after winter.SO April I got new battery free since old one was in warranty. I brought to local shop to check stator and they said was no problem with it and was probably just old battery. Very reliable shop form what I have heard form other riders. Well we got some Spring snow so sat again. Went to start it... dead. Charged back all was good. Went on family vacation came back. Dead again. Put on charger this time went to start. It made a buzzing noise.( I looked that up on forum and many people said battery). SO I went to show friend two days later. This time when I turn key Lights just flickered on and off. Yesterday I took video and now nothing at all. But the battery says its charged.3rd battery in two years so I am assuming I wasn't unlucky enough to have that many bad batteries. I am going to check fuse today. Any other opinions?
Below Is a video of my current problem

https://youtu.be/e0CaA1IkaOU
Check stator.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So I eliminated fuse problem . I am not near a hill to try bump start. I got a video of the inside, There is one black cord that has been clipped. Idk if hat has an extra cause to it. It ran before with it clipped.\\THANK YOU FOR THE HELP

https://youtu.be/Xy6WA7yZ7Ww
 

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Holy shit that video was blurry.

Anyway...cant see anything in your video but it doesnt matter.

U dont need a hill to bump start it. Put the bike in 2nd gear...Get off the bike but hold the handlebars...Pull in the clutch and run with the bike til u get some speed....Hop on the bike and release the clutch. Obviously make sure your key and master switch are on before u try this.

Once u get the bike started, go up and read post #4. That guy seems to be pretty smart.
 

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So a little update. I ripped out all the LED that came with the bike.IT was wired all sorts of messed up. Battery is shot. So have to get a 4th battery. SO when I hook it up if it starts I need to find out what is killing the battery.
.
 

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So a little update. I ripped out all the LED that came with the bike.IT was wired all sorts of messed up. Battery is shot. So have to get a 4th battery. SO when I hook it up if it starts I need to find out what is killing the battery.

Batteries are one of the simplest things, on a bike. Light bulbs are about the only thing that is even less complicated.

I have a very hard time believing that you have managed to destroy 3 of them already and are looking to get a fourth and repeat.

Do you own a multi meter? Walmart sells them for less than $20. You need to be able to read VDC, VAC, and Ohms. You will get Amperage measurements as well....

Do you already have the shop manual for that bike? Very clear instructions in there on how to troubleshoot electrical problems.:idea:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So a little update. I ripped out all the LED that came with the bike.IT was wired all sorts of messed up. Battery is shot. So have to get a 4th battery. SO when I hook it up if it starts I need to find out what is killing the battery.

Batteries are one of the simplest things, on a bike. Light bulbs are about the only thing that is even less complicated.

I have a very hard time believing that you have managed to destroy 3 of them already and are looking to get a fourth and repeat.

Do you own a multi meter? Walmart sells them for less than $20. You need to be able to read VDC, VAC, and Ohms. You will get Amperage measurements as well....

Do you already have the shop manual for that bike? Very clear instructions in there on how to troubleshoot electrical problems.:idea:



Well The first battery was the one it came with the second was because I thought LED killed first one so we just disconnected 2spots. 3rd one was cuz 2nd one got shot over winter and was under warranty. I am getting this one now with the purpose to find the problem more. This is my first bike So I am still learning a lot. I got a multimeter yesterday
 

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Glad you are learning..... it gets really expensive, if you don't.

A discharged battery should not be destroyed. If it sat flat for six months, it may be. But I would still take it in and get it load tested to make sure.

Very simply, with the bike off, use the multimeter to read what Voltage is present across the battery terminals. VDC. Should be a smidge over 12, up to about 12.3

Then, turn the ignition on without starting the bike -- that number should not change in any significant way.... should still be over 12 VDC.

When you start the bike, the number should stay pretty close to that, with the engine idling. when you get over 2-3 K RPM, the Voltage should go up to 14.3 or so. As long as it is greater than 12.3 VDC, you will put energy into the battery.

Any energy going into the battery has to be DC. Direct Current, rather than Alternating Current. The on board generator on the bike is an Alternator, which puts out AC. (If you have a battery maintainer (battery tender, etc.) that plugs into the battery terminals directly, that can add DC to the battery and tapers off the input as the battery fills up. A 'smart' charger.)

The Alternator is made of two parts, the rotating part (rotor) and the part that doesn't move (stator). As the rotor turns, it produces waves of current in the static windings of the stator. The faster it turns, the more power you get out. The rotor is tied directly to the crankshaft of the engine so it spins at the same speed as the motor does.

The charging system on a motorcycle is simple, and cheap. No bigger than it has to be. Very little excess capacity. When it is placed under too much demand for too long, something gives. Most of the time, it seems the stator melts down. Sometimes, that takes the regulator/rectifier with it.

The R/R, converts (rectifies) the AC into DC, and then limits how high the Voltage can go, so you don't cook the battery (regulates).

Extra lighting, HIDs, whatever other monkey business has been done, increases the demand on the charging system. Something breaks sooner than it might have, if it were left alone. Good job, clearing out what someone else did to that bike.

If your multimeter shows you numbers that do not conform to what I have described, the shop manual for your bike can help identify what is actually happening. The number of Volts AC each phase from the alternator is clearly called out, and is easily checked.

If the numbers you see on the battery go over 14.7 VDC, the regulator is not working. That will fry the battery.

Download the manual. Take the readings I have described. Let us know what you find.
 
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