Bike sometimes dies when coming to a stop

3772 Views 8 Replies 6 Participants Last post by spiderman636, Mar 28, 2015

ninjaboi2006

Discussion Starter · Mar 13, 2015

I am new to riding and have been out only a handful of times. Have never kiiled it by letting off the clutch too fast. But today, its super nice out so I went out for a ride. It seems to run between 180-208 for temp.. Sound normal?? But my main issue only happened three times... When coming to a stop I pulled my clutch in all the way as I would normally, started braking and downshifting at the same time while clutch is still pulled, and it would just randomly die. Of course I couldnt restart it till I got down slow enough to hit neutral again. But it just was slightly frustrating... Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

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40acres

· #2 · Mar 13, 2015

The temps are normal. You'll see those climb slightly as the weather warms up as well. As long as you can stay under about 230 you're fine. In regards to the stalling, check your idle speed. You should be idling at around 1300 rpms give or take 50-100. The adjustment should be on the left side of your bike, below the tank/front of the seat and look like this photo. Turn it until you get the correct idle speed.

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ninjaboi2006

Discussion Starter · #3 · Mar 13, 2015

Haha, ok yeah that would be my problem. I think at a light when its warmed up its only been running at around 700-800... I will go out and adjust that ASAP. Also my front brake feel warped when I apply them, makes the front end dive on the high spots of the rotor. Can those be machined on a brake lathe or is it best to just say f**k it and replace them?

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40acres

· #4 · Mar 13, 2015

I would replace them. However, it might not be warped, it could be just improper bedding and there's more pad material bedded into different spots. You could have them bead blasted and replace the pads and see if that helps. If not, replace.

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skidooboy

· #5 · Mar 13, 2015

up your idle to somewhere between 1100-1600, wherever you and the bike like it. much below 1000, and it will stall upon closing throttle abruptly. Ski

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AnfarnoCorin

· #6 · Mar 14, 2015

ninjaboi2006 said:
Haha, ok yeah that would be my problem. I think at a light when its warmed up its only been running at around 700-800... I will go out and adjust that ASAP. Also my front brake feel warped when I apply them, makes the front end dive on the high spots of the rotor. Can those be machined on a brake lathe or is it best to just say f**k it and replace them?

Don't ditch them just yet. I read an article by stoptech about "warped rotors" I'll find the link if you want, but basically to fix the issue, buy some plumbers sand cloth and sand down your rotors for a good 5 minutes to clean the surfaces and take your brake pads and rub them in a figure 8 motion on some concrete to clean those up too. Then redo the break in process that you would do for fresh brakes and your all set!
I did this and it worked like a charm.

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TheSloMoShow

· #7 · Mar 14, 2015

I had this exact issue too, right after I overhauled my engine and adjusted the valve. Changing the idle speed seemed to put a band aid on the situation, but a TB sync became the permanent solution.

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ninjaboi2006

Discussion Starter · #8 · Mar 28, 2015

Im hoping to get it out sometime this weekend or next week to ride it and re-check things. The weather here in Nebraska has been so f**ked up. 70 degrees one day, 20 that night, snow and 40 the next day... I need to move :crazy

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spiderman636

· #9 · Mar 28, 2015

I think it's idle adjuster as well but just in case you screwed around with your clutch cable lately Check that too. I had the same issue on my SV after I installed new levers. Mine was a combo of both I believe.

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