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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
You would not even have to empty the tank.......... start with just blowing some compressed air in there and see if it comes through the other side, or blows anything out

I have seen many of these inside the tank vents tube crack or rust through then fuel comes straight out (when the crack is below fuel level)
So if you are going to shove anything through make sure it is soft and flexible- like air would be........ You could safely put 20psi in there..... I have blown spider nests out of some and they were so dense it took nearly 40psi- but it was sketchy and as thin walled as those tubes are I doubt they are rated for 40psi
I have also split a couple open trying this when they took near 40psi and still nothing happened til it did- the lines split open and whatever the clog was- remained above the split.......

So it is high risk is what I am saying.........

one other thing maybe doubtfully but maybe...........

Just drain the tank and pull the petcock completely out....look and see if someone somehow for some reason added length to the pick ups, or fucked it up in some way shape or form............. free and easy enough to do

and as mentioned above, simply remove the rubber line and make sure it is free and clear of obstruction or kinks.....
Thanks fo the feedback. I have checked the rubber hose for kinks, but i guess removing it is worth a try.
I dont have an air compressor, but i could potentially borrow one i guess. Would i blow air from the back of the tank and up, or from the top of the cap and down? (If thats even possible)
Would you agree with the brass wire idea? Or is air my only option?
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I'm in the camp of the vent line is clogged; we seem to all be in agreement that the situation resides within the plumbing on the tank...... what happens if you ride the bike with the rubber hose disconnected from the tank? It's possible the rubber hose is pinched somewhere; that's pretty low hanging fruit, and should have already been checked, but I haven't seen that box ticked yet.

Yes, if the inside of the metallic tube has gotten rusty enough to be clogged getting a solid core fine wire that is only slightly smaller OD than the ID of the pipe would be the first step in trying to clear out the obstruction. Aluminum wire, or possibly brass would be my suggestion....
Thanks for the input.
Not 100% sure what type of wire you mean. Could you link a photo or something?
 

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Thanks fo the feedback. I have checked the rubber hose for kinks, but i guess removing it is worth a try.
I dont have an air compressor, but i could potentially borrow one i guess. Would i blow air from the back of the tank and up, or from the top of the cap and down? (If thats even possible)
Would you agree with the brass wire idea? Or is air my only option?
Blow from the side the hose is on

and you could simply start with blowing on the vent with your mouth if no air supply (clean the end of the hose and blow on that

if it blows clean and easy, then put one of your fingers over that obvious drain hole you can see when the fuel cap is open and try again

I have never cut one of these tanks open and without the monster big fuel pump assembly in the bottom one cannot really see the inner workings of the plumbing inside..... but it either has to have an internal vent sharing space and exit with that one exit drain you see on the back of the tank or it has to vent via the fuel cap (seems more likely honestly)

And....... if you can blow through that line easily enough and no big obstructions come flying out......... pull your petcock out of the tank and see if everything is attached properly (take a couple pictures) and pull the 2- JIS #2 screws that hold the end on and pull the rotating assembly and check out the gasket (take a picture and show me that too)....... maybe some idgit fucked that up and it only works in the on position and not reserve? (although reserve is 1.1 gallons and you burn through about 3.8 gallons prior to reserve)
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
So i emptied the tank and removed the petcock. Seems fine. I did have to turn the tank upside down to get everything out, but i guess that is normal? Tilting the tank only helps so much.
One of the filters(pickups?) Is very long. I think its stock?
Gaskets seem fine inside the switch, and i can turn it from OFF to RES to ON just fine. The ON setting opens the line to the long filter. RES opens to the short filter and closes the long one. I put some silicone spray on the round oring, and cable lube on the metal spring wahser. Smooth for now.
Blowing on the rubber line at the back of the tank connects to a hole under the gas cap. Seems free flowing. I can see a metal line inside the tank connecting the two holes
Everything seems fine to me. Idk. Here are some photos.
108347
108348
108349
108350
108351
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Blow from the side the hose is on

and you could simply start with blowing on the vent with your mouth if no air supply (clean the end of the hose and blow on that

if it blows clean and easy, then put one of your fingers over that obvious drain hole you can see when the fuel cap is open and try again

I have never cut one of these tanks open and without the monster big fuel pump assembly in the bottom one cannot really see the inner workings of the plumbing inside..... but it either has to have an internal vent sharing space and exit with that one exit drain you see on the back of the tank or it has to vent via the fuel cap (seems more likely honestly)

And....... if you can blow through that line easily enough and no big obstructions come flying out......... pull your petcock out of the tank and see if everything is attached properly (take a couple pictures) and pull the 2- JIS #2 screws that hold the end on and pull the rotating assembly and check out the gasket (take a picture and show me that too)....... maybe some idgit fucked that up and it only works in the on position and not reserve? (although reserve is 1.1 gallons and you burn through about 3.8 gallons prior to reserve)
Blocking the hole on top while blowing through the tube at the back stops the air flow. So its a one way line.
 

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So i emptied the tank and removed the petcock. Seems fine. I did have to turn the tank upside down to get everything out, but i guess that is normal? Tilting the tank only helps so much.
One of the filters(pickups?) Is very long. I think its stock?
Gaskets seem fine inside the switch, and i can turn it from OFF to RES to ON just fine. The ON setting opens the line to the long filter. RES opens to the short filter and closes the long one. I put some silicone spray on the round oring, and cable lube on the metal spring wahser. Smooth for now.
Blowing on the rubber line at the back of the tank connects to a hole under the gas cap. Seems free flowing. I can see a metal line inside the tank connecting the two holes
Everything seems fine to me. Idk. Here are some photos.
View attachment 108347 View attachment 108348 View attachment 108349 View attachment 108350 View attachment 108351
Everything looks good and sounds good about this, jjust make sure you put that big smily face flat rubber washer back in correctly and that works like it should

So we are down to the cap venting the fuel level as it lowers.....

So you said you had this same issue with the oem cap and it persisted after putting on your vortex cap too, so sems like not a tank vent issue.... Are you sure your fuel pump is running?

I know way back on page 1 and post 5 I brought up the pump and you mentioned you bought some ebay pump but it didn't wire up then later you said you tried a "new pump" was this the ebay pump or another new pump???

I am back to my original thought that this is a fuel pump issue......

The bike will only run to about 1/2 tank of fuel then starve for fuel with a bad pump or no pump at all because of the carb location (high up about the fuel level once you use around 2 gallons of fuel)

So what pump did you install and have you tried only putting in a gallon of fuel and then put a finger or two on the pump and go to start it and let it run a good ten minutes, see if the pump clicks intermittently everytime the fuel level drops enough to want more fuel (at a fast idle that would be about every 4 seconds- but that vastly varies and is not as important as that the pump keeps up with fuel demand)
and the reason to do this with very low fuel in the tank (reserve) is so head pressure in the tank is forcing fuel by and up into the carbs.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Everything looks good and sounds good about this, jjust make sure you put that big smily face flat rubber washer back in correctly and that works like it should

So we are down to the cap venting the fuel level as it lowers.....

So you said you had this same issue with the oem cap and it persisted after putting on your vortex cap too, so sems like not a tank vent issue.... Are you sure your fuel pump is running?

I know way back on page 1 and post 5 I brought up the pump and you mentioned you bought some ebay pump but it didn't wire up then later you said you tried a "new pump" was this the ebay pump or another new pump???

I am back to my original thought that this is a fuel pump issue......

The bike will only run to about 1/2 tank of fuel then starve for fuel with a bad pump or no pump at all because of the carb location (high up about the fuel level once you use around 2 gallons of fuel)

So what pump did you install and have you tried only putting in a gallon of fuel and then put a finger or two on the pump and go to start it and let it run a good ten minutes, see if the pump clicks intermittently everytime the fuel level drops enough to want more fuel (at a fast idle that would be about every 4 seconds- but that vastly varies and is not as important as that the pump keeps up with fuel demand)
and the reason to do this with very low fuel in the tank (reserve) is so head pressure in the tank is forcing fuel by and up into the carbs.....
I ordered a brand new oem Mitsubishi pump and it is currently installed. No difference. I would imagine a brand new pump should work tip top. So i was pretty pissed when the bike stopped again.
I haven't tried the oem cap since ive changed pumps. Not sure if that would matter. I thought Vortex cap had better venting than stock.
Is it possible that the pump isnt getting enough juice? Electrical issue?
 

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I ordered a brand new oem Mitsubishi pump and it is currently installed. No difference. I would imagine a brand new pump should work tip top. So i was pretty pissed when the bike stopped again.
I haven't tried the oem cap since ive changed pumps. Not sure if that would matter. I thought Vortex cap had better venting than stock.
Is it possible that the pump isnt getting enough juice? Electrical issue?
There is a pump relay (tail of bike under the plastics on the left side)

I don't have the service manual in front of me........ but you can measure voltage in and out- spec is in the service manual I am sure

and yes a new oem pump should work right out of the box (but you can still test it...these operate via a points system under that black cap and while a PITA to remove the black cap it can and you can physically watch the points move and gap them and see how worn they get when old..... but your new pump should have no issues......... but there are always some defective parts in all manufacturing, although these should be tested upon assembly I would hope....
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
There is a pump relay (tail of bike under the plastics on the left side)

I don't have the service manual in front of me........ but you can measure voltage in and out- spec is in the service manual I am sure

and yes a new oem pump should work right out of the box (but you can still test it...these operate via a points system under that black cap and while a PITA to remove the black cap it can and you can physically watch the points move and gap them and see how worn they get when old..... but your new pump should have no issues......... but there are always some defective parts in all manufacturing, although these should be tested upon assembly I would hope....
Relay is also brand new oem. Well. I replaced the relay a few months ago because it died on me. I think it happend because a spring in the fuel pump got stuck. After new relay + spring fix the old fuel pump worked and the bike ran. Aswell as i does now anyway.
So back to current news.
Put the oem gas cap back. Although the venting seems pretty much the same when blowing through the tank tube.
After putting the bike together with only 5 liters fuel it started and actually ran. Well, it idled until the garage was full of fumes and i shut it off. No driving.
After my calculations it usually dies when under 8 liters. So i was abit surprised. I felt the pump ticking very fast so i guess it was doing its job. Im not sure if i somehow fixed the issue or if this just tells me the problem has to do with accumulation of something i.e; vaccum or loss of power.
Im guessing that starting with low fuel on a cold bike is not the same as depleting fuel after a long drive. The effects on the fuel system would in this regard vary.
But i hope im wrong. Will test drive tomorrow with low fuel and see how far i can get. Il just bring some gas with me in case.
Not sure if this will even be a reliable test. But it would be very time consuming to start with a full tank, as i usually do before the bike dies after a few hours of driving.
 
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