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Hi All,

Recently my motorcycle was stolen. Main wiring harness from ignition was cut and attempted to hot wire. I work with cables, so i re-soldered the 7 wires in the harness and heat sealed them. I found a few blown fuses, one for the tail light, and the 15AMP fuse for the Starter Relay Solenoid. I replaced the two fuses and turn the key on and all lights come on.

Now, I go to hit the electric start and it does not turn over. Rapid clicking/buzzing sound. I have checked and recharged my battery and the battery connection is good. Looking for some opinions --- Are there any hidden fuses i may have overlooked? I am wondering since a few fuses were blown, if maybe the hot wiring affected another part of the bike?

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
John
 

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Knowing what year and model your bike is would be of some assistance.

But...3 things I know of will create that problem. The most simple, and what you've already checked is the battery. If you have a multimeter, check the DC voltage across the terminals and report back, should be something like 14.4VDC iirc.

Number two is that your starter is trash. Do yourself a favor and use a multimeter and check the voltage at your starter leads, because there is a chance it's short circuiting and very little voltage is actually hitting the starter, regardless of what is available at the battery.

Number 3, is that the engine is locked up. For this you can just pull the crankcase cover, get the appropriate wrench size and try to turn it over by hand. If it turns, then you have an issue with the starter, if it doesn't, well you've found your issue. In fact, an easier way would be to just put it in gear with the clutch out and see if you can push it. If the rear wheel locks up, your engine is locked up.

Nothing else really matters at this point, even if you can't get fuel for whatever reason, the engine would still turn over.
 

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that "buzzing" sound you're describing is usually what the starter relay does when the battery is weak.

check your voltage at the battery with the key off. it should be at LEAST 12 volts.

if that checks out, turn the key on. do you still have 12v while the fuel pump primes?

next, hit the starter button. what's the voltage when the relay's buzzing?

if the battery stays at or near 12v for all those tests, i'd start looking more closely at the starter circuit. chances are the starter button and kill switch are probably ok. only reason i say this is you're getting the buzzing when you hit the button, which also tells me you're getting a signal to the starter relay.

haven't looked too closely at the starter relay on these bikes so i'm not sure how easy it'd be to jump it. there will be two big wires and one small one. the small one is your signal from the button. one big one comes from the battery and the other one goes to the starter. try to jump out the two big ones. if the bike cranks, you need a new relay.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
This is for a 1998 ZX600-G1.

I have recharged the battery and it is full, placed it back in the bike and now when i hit the start button -- it does nothing. Before it sounded like it might have been the fuel pump buzzing. I have electrically tested the starter switch (handlebar) and that is good. I have tested the fuel pump and that is good. I made sure that the kick stand switch engages/disengages and that also it working.

On the Starter switch solenoid, i bypassed the fuse and jumped it with a screw driver connecting the battery to the starter. At this point i had my gas tank off but the bike started to turn over.

Kawaholic, i think you might be on to something. I am wondering if this could possibly be a faulty Starter Switch Solenoid.... i did find the blown fuse in that switch. Maybe when they tried to hotwire it, too much power ran to it and also damaged the rest of the switch.

I appreciate all the input on this matter
 

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Make sure you're getting a signal to the relay when you hit the starter button. Also check the kill switch... if that all checks out I'd try a new relay.
 

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I would not overlook checking the clutch lever/nuetral safety switch.... it could be that simple

and just to correct the stupidity of a couple posts....

regulator rectifier has nothing to do with a bike starting...fucking stupid!--- you can remove the entire charging system and the bike will still start and run with a fully charged good battery

a fully charged battery only holds 13.2v maximum capacity---it cannot hold more! certainly not 14.4v and certainly if it only has 12v it is a shit battery or not fully charged\\12.5v is a half dead battery- so any reading below about 12.8v should be fully charged back up to atleast this amount.

The starter itself has one connection- straight from the starter relay=which is simply a relay---the starter button takes a low amount of voltage to open a switch which directly connects your battery to the starter.... it really is that simple. So testing the starter........... well strong odds if it worked before it still works now. PLus you said when you jumped the relay it cranked over
The starter relay fuse you replaced is simply the main fuse on your bike- if some hack just snipped through all the wires on the ignition it surely would blow atleast that fuse

The fuel pump on your bike---it is a low pressure low volume pump and only runs on demand....it does not fire up and prime like an FI bike

Do you have the service manual?
Do you have a voltmeter?
did you actually test the state of charge of the battery? just because you had it on a charger does not mean it is fully charged or good !!!
did you check to see if you get the relay to open when you push the starter button
did you check the neutral safety switch
Are the wires on the ignition soldered back up properly? are they still connected well to the base plate of the ignition?
 
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