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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

I rode today for about an hour with no issues but after a short stop I tried to turn the bike on and it wouldn't start, the lights on the dash started to go dim after the third try, I ended up getting a jump to get the bike started. Could this be a sign of me needing a new battery, or a charging issue?

Second, When I slow down I'm getting squeaking noise from my front breaks, the bike only has 4000 miles on it and still with stock pads, is this a sign on needing new break pads.

Sorry for all the noob questions but Um yeah, I'm still in that category :)

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah, I rode it home last night after the charge so I'll check on it tonight to see if it starts fine, if not I'm guessing it's the battery as well.
 

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Sounds like something in the batt or charging system. Batteries are relatively cheap, so it might not bea bad place to start. While you are in there put a battery tender hook up on it so you don't have to pull the seat/tank to charge.

Squeaking can either be corrosion on the pads/rotors like said above or the pads nearing the end of life. They should have wear indicators.

I believe that heat cycles matter on brake pads so it may not be a bad idea to replace the pads and flush the fluid just for funsies.

Ey3
 
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Sounds like something in the batt or charging system. Batteries are relatively cheap, so it might not bea bad place to start. While you are in there put a battery tender hook up on it so you don't have to pull the seat/tank to charge.

Squeaking can either be corrosion on the pads/rotors like said above or the pads nearing the end of life. They should have wear indicators.

I believe that heat cycles matter on brake pads so it may not be a bad idea to replace the pads and flush the fluid just for funsies.

Ey3
A multimeter is even cheaper (you can get one for less than $10 at Harbor Freight). Then you can test your regulator/rectifier and your stator, and the charge level of the battery with the engine off and with the engine running. That will tell you which of those parts is causing the problem (these procedures should be in the service manual for you bike). That's where I would start, because you don't want to replace parts that are still good.

As for the brake pads a little squeaking is nothing especially if the bike has sat for a bit. Visually inspect the pads by looking at them through the front of the caliper, and see how thick the pad material is. They should still have at least 75% of their life left in them after only 4000 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
A multimeter is even cheaper (you can get one for less than $10 at Harbor Freight). Then you can test your regulator/rectifier and your stator, and the charge level of the battery with the engine off and with the engine running. That will tell you which of those parts is causing the problem (these procedures should be in the service manual for you bike). That's where I would start, because you don't want to replace parts that are still good.

As for the brake pads a little squeaking is nothing especially if the bike has sat for a bit. Visually inspect the pads by looking at them through the front of the caliper, and see how thick the pad material is. They should still have at least 75% of their life left in them after only 4000 miles.
Using a votimeter, I many volts with the engine turn ed off would show a problem with the battery?

I'll do a check tonight and post the results, Last thing I want to do is get stuck somewhere.

Thanks for your help guys.
 

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Using a votimeter, I many volts with the engine turn ed off would show a problem with the battery?

I'll do a check tonight and post the results, Last thing I want to do is get stuck somewhere.

Thanks for your help guys.
With the engine off, the battery should read DC 12.8 V or higher. With the engine on and charging properly, the battery should read DC 14.2 ~ 15.2 V. The tests for the stator is more specific. On my bike, for example, the stator should be putting out AC 54 V or more on all three phases at 4000 RPM.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
With the engine off, the battery should read DC 12.8 V or higher. With the engine on and charging properly, the battery should read DC 14.2 ~ 15.2 V. The tests for the stator is more specific. On my bike, for example, the stator should be putting out AC 54 V or more on all three phases at 4000 RPM.
Great thank you for the info.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
The battery is showing 11v I think I might need a new batttery...???

Should I get one? According to the bike shop the bike won't be able to charge it up all the way... ��

Update: Ended up getting the new battery, seems to be running fine hopefully it will keep the charge.
 
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