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Bar end screw stuck, what do i do?

150 Views 12 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Scumbag
hi guys,

i am trying to move my bar end screw to install a lever guard. But whatever i tried, just dont work. Someone suggested me to use a blowtorch or heatgun as there probably some loctite hold the screw. i m just worrying about the heat will damage the plastic tip of the bar end that covering the screw?
any better suggestions?
cheers guys

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Strange at least in the UK to fit a Guard to the clutch side (Shown) as there designed to stop the front Brake Lever getting applied when your racing against others.
If its asthetics only then that makes sense OR you used the Clutch side as a Picture referance only.

Kawasaki do indeed coat theBar End Fasteners with Locktite but having said that I've never had to heat one up to remove it, The old style Screws were a challenge at times but using a decent good fitting M6 3/8" Hex socket and appropriate Breaker bar it will come out.
Folks struggle getting them out usually stem from Shite quality tools, I use predominantly Snap On as I turn spanners for a living but unsure of a decent affordable brand in the states so undoubtably a memebr will be along with hopefully some suggestions :oops:

If you only have limited funds for tools then a little 6mm Allen Key with a Tube to extend leverage BUT make sure the key is of decent quality or it will round off.

Tip:- Get someone to hold the other handle bar so you don't upend the Bike undoing it ;)

If you feel the need for some heat, Use a Heat Gun and warm the sides of the Bar End and stay away from the Rubber Grip, If you do end up with a screw that won't come out without excess heat and subsequent rubber damage then you can purchase a new oem Grip and glue it in place its not difficult.
If you have to replace the Throttle grip then thats a tad more expensive but no gluing requred.
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Strange at least in the UK to fit a Guard to the clutch side (Shown) as there designed to stop the front Brake Lever getting applied when your racing against others.
If its asthetics only then that makes sense OR you used the Clutch side as a Picture referance only.

Kawasaki do indeed coat theBar End Fasteners with Locktite but having said that I've never had to heat one up to remove it, The old style Screws were a challenge at times but using a decent good fitting M6 3/8" Hex socket and appropriate Breaker bar it will come out.
Folks struggle getting them out usually stem from Shite quality tools, I use predominantly Snap On as I turn spanners for a living but unsure of a decent affordable brand in the states so undoubtably a memebr will be along with hopefully some suggestions :oops:

If you only have limited funds for tools then a little 6mm Allen Key with a Tube to extend leverage BUT make sure the key is of decent quality or it will round off.

Tip:- Get someone to hold the other handle bar so you don't upend the Bike undoing it ;)

If you feel the need for some heat, Use a Heat Gun and warm the sides of the Bar End and stay away from the Rubber Grip, If you do end up with a screw that won't come out without excess heat and subsequent rubber damage then you can purchase a new oem Grip and glue it in place its not difficult.
If you have to replace the Throttle grip then thats a tad more expensive but no gluing requred.
hey thanks for the info man. yea i was just use clutch side as an example. i was using the allen key that came with the bike underneath the seat didnt work thought i m just too weak lol then switch to a hand impact drill . still won't work.

cos the black round piece around the screw also a plastic i think or rubber/plastic.
Well the good news is you haven’t rounded it off. A good hex socket and more leverage and like kev mentioned a heat gun will help loosen the lock tight. But I have never needed to heat these.

they can be pretty tuff to remove and you would never get it with a Allen key. You will need a socket and a decent ratchet or extended pry bar.

your best bet for “cheap” is harbor freight. They sell a half inch set. It’s a pretty deep headed bolt so as long as you use the correct size you shouldn’t round it off. An impact isn’t going to help as much as good ole fashion leverage. The clip on will just bounce around with an impact and you will loose the advantage of the impact action. Just slow gorilla strength is your friend lol.
Aren't your bar ends steel like every other bike?

and try hitting it with your purse......... Surely a decent metric allen and even a 3/8 drive ratchet is enough leverage for all but wimps to loosen to the bolt..........

the only ones I have ever had issues with is the idiotic honda ones with the lead inserts and then they just sit and spin

kawi ones always come out easily
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What’s the logic behind that lead shit? I never have understood that. They claim better dampening but it’s just stupid.
What’s the logic behind that lead shit? I never have understood that. They claim better dampening but it’s just stupid.
The logic is illogical................ and it often eludes engineers and pencil pushers.........
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Gotta agree, Those Honda Inserts are pure Shite :mad:
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Gotta agree, Those Honda Inserts are pure Shite :mad:
I think Honda pours all their money into the off-road market. The off-road bike quality versus the road stuff is almost like two different company’s. They are always miles ahead in the off-road world. I have never seen anything take abuse like there small displacement engines. And the quads are better engineered than any other.
Sometimes the most difficult problems have the stupidest solutions, and after what I saw in the post about the sliders and the ruined engine spacer screw, I'm going to ask something basic: which side are you trying to unscrew the screw for? clockwise or counterclockwise?
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Sometimes the most difficult problems have the stupidest solutions, and after what I saw in the post about the sliders and the ruined engine spacer screw, I'm going to ask something basic: which side are you trying to unscrew the screw for? clockwise or counterclockwise?
Regardless of which handlebar he is removing the bar end from, they are both
lefty loosey
righty tighty
Regardless of which handlebar he is removing the bar end from, they are both
lefty loosey
righty tighty
I know that, you know it.....does the OP know it?
I know that, you know it.....does the OP know it?
I just watched a video of a guy complaining how his Jack was shit and the bolts came loose and one side stripped right out when he tried to tightn it. You can clearly see one side is regular thread the other is left hand thread. It was even a loose bolt and he still never figured it out. Some people.
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