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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
put this back up for you mike to help you out as i cant upload any pics on the original thread

there are 2 ways of fitting a b rear end on a j model
the first way is to cut and weld the rear seat frame
as you can see the j frame in black is longer and thinner than the b frame in silver



so if you go the welding route you will need to adapt the b frame (silver one) to the same width as the j frame (black one) hence cutting and welding the frame

if you cant get hold of a tig welder here is another route
adapt your j frame to fit the b plastics on
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
first get you j frame and cut the end off it so it is the same length as the b frame
like so
for the lenght that needs to come off is about 1.5 inches .....that will be making the cut just back from the cross brace .....
as the picture shows


also you will not need the old handle brackets ....cut them off

now flip it over and chamfer the rear section down as in the pic

on the b frame you will see this metal bracket welded on the rear .....grind down the welds .....it will come off ....if you don't have a b frame to hand its a very easy bracket to make up
and you are left with this

offer it up to the rear section of the j frame and on the cross brace there is a couple of holes .....it will line up with those you might have to elongate the rear hole but it will go on

once that is bolted on you will have to bend up very slightly the ears at the end of the bracket ....just with a pair of pliers .....will be fine (remember just a tiny bit)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
half way down the B-frame you will see these brackets
you want to replicate these on you modified J-frame

so screw the top section of your new rear end on the rear bracket like this

on your rear bracket you will notice there is a slot that is for your boot lock ......mark it out and cut the slot out in the cross brace then
you will see were the plastics will connect onto the brackets what you need to make up so mark the frame and take the plastics back off
its an easy bracket to make needs to come out 15mm from the frame .....you will need a a 10mm drill to drill the hole in the middle of the bracket where the rubber grommet will fit in to hold the front section of plastics
drill a 6mm hole through the frame and bolt the bracket on with a nut and bolt .....in the picture you will see a Coach Bolt with a flush head

looking down your frame you will see your old brackets on there that use to hold your original plastics .....you dont need them .....cut them off

so now it should look like this with your 3 brackets holding the rear section on
dont worry if its slightly out as being mainly bolted via the rear bracket you can just adjust it to get it all straight

you will see half way down i have made up some brackets that hold the top of the boot section
if you make the holes slightly oversized where the brackets bolt into the frame ....
you can adjust them to get the seat hump lined up correctly

as you can see they lock in and fit a treat .....photo from underneath looking at the brackets locking in

so that's it .....and what it looks like with the lid on

note : i used the B series locking mechanism to lock the lid(rear seat cowl) down ...bolts that hold the rear bracket on go through the cross brace and then will also go though the boot lock ........thats why the slot is cut out in the bracket(if that makes sense)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
now its just a case of paint the rear and fit it to your bike
with the modified frame

and what it will look like with the plastics on

to get to this stage ......should take no less than a couple of hours if you are competent in the workshop
as for the black battery holder for the j series ....where it bolts onto the rear frame just behind the electrics cut it off just rear of the bolts ....dont need to put a photo up for that as its self explanatory
you now have 2 options for the seat you can make a new seat base up or use the original b model seat you will have to modify the seat brackets .....but not by much
for my bike i decided to make a seat base up
i used the front corners and lines from a j series seat and the rear and sides from the b series and a tub of the loveliness known as fibreglass

after its all dried fibredisc it down and you are done with the base

and now its just trimming the seat ....im pretty tall so i wanted a thicker seat ....so after trimming it with new foam and also i made a new cover ......this is the outcome .....this part really is down to you .....you can decide what you want to do with your seat .....


it is now wiring tidy time
on the j series the cdi unit sits on the outside of the frame ....this is now a personal preference as i dont use the boot area and have no pegs on the rear as i dont carry any passengers .....i put the cdi unit in the boot on a bracket i knocked up quickly .....(just extended the wiring by about 7 or 8 inches)
(note the loose wires with blue tips are for the rear light)

now the mock up is all done and you are happy with it
its time to slap the paint on the plastics
 

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LOL!!

He can't help it he's not used to build threads that actually get finished....:laugh


Sorry for littering your thread but I couldn't help it.
 

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you my friend are some sort of cunt

im trying to do a fucking build thread to help people out !!!!!!!
had to cram all the pics cos of your twatish remark .....dick!!!
27 pictures. Limit is 30 per 1 post :naughty:

But my bad I can have MoM delete that out of there for ya
 

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Ok thanks for the thread Mark, I'm going to be using it a lot.

First a few questions, Is there enough slack in the CDI wires to relocate it under the rear, or did you have to splice in some?

& again why do I need to cut the battery box if I''m keeping the J sub-frame?
 

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Talk to me Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
you need to cut the battery box just behind the 2 bolts that hold it to the frame which are located just behind the battery .....reason why you cant get to lower section of B plastic undertail clipped in right as the battery tray gets in the way .......
there isn't enough slack in the loom to allow you to move the cdi box to the rear .....so i soldered in about 8 inches of loom ......
 

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This is ALOT harder than it looks! I did this over the winter last year, took some serious time and custom work. Would still do again. I mounted my CDI on a bracket between the subframe, i did not lengthen the wires.

Battery box needs to be cut to accomodate the undertail piece. I cut mine where it would just fit the tail, and still keep the water out of the tail/battery when you get caught in the rain.

I have some pics/documentation of my swap as well. Ask any questions you may have.
 

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So I need to cut a slot for the under plastic to stick through?
You home? Your phone is about to ring, Answer it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
the conversion was done in winter of 2011 .....posted the original thread up beginning 2012 .....so picks are not great but it gives you a great idea of what to do .......since then ive done a few for friends .....its not that hard just take your time ....one step at a time
 

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Also i guess i should mention for the CDI i took the entire harness out of the frame and cleaned up the routing and stuff. Also mounted my alarm in the tail with no issues. I dont have a tray in there anymore for storage, but i still store stuff in the tail no problem.
 

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This is ALOT harder than it looks! I did this over the winter last year, took some serious time and custom work. Would still do again. I mounted my CDI on a bracket between the subframe, i did not lengthen the wires.

Battery box needs to be cut to accomodate the undertail piece. I cut mine where it would just fit the tail, and still keep the water out of the tail/battery when you get caught in the rain.

I have some pics/documentation of my swap as well. Ask any questions you may have.
Yeah post some pics. or if you want you can PM then to me.
Keep Marks thread clean.
 

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About to start this swap, maybe next week.......
 
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