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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking for opinions and / or experience on these?
Couldn't find much on the forum search.
Anyone want to chime in?
What about Diamond rear sets?
I'm looking for the most reasonable option for a 2021.
 

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chineseum aren't they?

so low quality pourous as fuck cheap copies of someone elses good units..........

Just buy the real deal from a good company that isn't some assfuck place in china
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well Arashi is a company, so its not just any cheap Ebay or chinese parts, but yes they are chinese. They appear to be the same as many other companies that are selling for double the price. That is why I am considering this option but would like to hear from someone that has them.
I would prefer to buy American, but unfortunately the Clintons have prevented that from happening....so here we are.
Seems like there are not a ton of options for the 19 and newer zx6r, which is strange.
My friend has Vortex ones on his zx6 but it doesn't show vortex compatible with anything past 2018, I assume because of the quickshifter.
 

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Well I have seen dozens and dozens of cheap ass chineseum shitty quality rearsets on bikes pass through the shop, more than likely some of them were your Arashi brand of shit low quality crap from china

nearly every one of them has low quality bolts, often too short to actually hold more than a couple threads, the bearings/bearing fitment in the shifter and brake pedal is such low quality they wobble all around (loose, worn out, who knows)

and the aluminum is definitely not anywhere near the machined quality/thichness of woodcraft or giles or vortext etc...and they most certainly are cast pot metal of junk

I would never buy them, nor sell them, nor install them and I sure the fuck would not trust their build quality to even hold me up standing on the pegs riding over a pot hole

but your money--spend it how you see fit........ but spending $150 on garbage is idiotic imo juts like supporting any chineseum shitbox company who steals from other companies and has all child labor doing the work
 

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As above. I had Arashi and the metal on the bolts/fasteners are not up to spec. You could potentially replace these and use red thread-lock but why bother. I went for Vortex after the Arashi's and have not looked back. When the Arashi's were on the stupid threads would back out and then when you went you re-torque you'd find the bolt had thread issues (torque correctly used). Avoid at all costs. It is seriously dangerous to ride a motorcycle where the footpegs can potentially fall off at any time.

I'm pretty sure the Vortex rearsets will work with the newer bike (I have a quick-shifter on my bike) - you just have to ensure the shift rod is the correct length or get one made up.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I liked the vortex set on my friends zx6, seemed solid. What year is yours? Is your QS oem or aftermarket? Is the OEM arm not compatible with Vortex?
 

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Mine is a 2013 so a QS was not an option this year. My QS is a Healtech, but I've had a HM Quickshifter previously with the same rear-sets. I had to get a specific rod from HM for the QS to work on the Vortex but with the Healtech I don't need to worry as it attaches to the shift hub bolt.
 

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I have some on my ‘21. You’ll have to relocate your master cylinder and probably reservoir. If you have quick shifter, you will need a different shift rod to make it fit and have any adjustment. You WILL need to blue lock tight all hardware or it WILL back out. I was forced because I could find any at the time. Roughly 11 months ago when the bike was finally delivered after waiting 6 months on it I had a difficult time finding a bunch of stuff. It’s a track bike so haven’t really thought about comfort on the street. I’m a tall guy so everything is uncomfortable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the reply Streetfigher! I wasn't sure if you had to relocate the master and reservoir. Does yours have ABS? Did you elect to move your reservoir?
It looks like you used the OEM shift rod?
ZX6R and comfort do not go together, I bought mine for the track as well and these 600 break in miles on the street are BRUTAL!!!!!
I ordered a pair of the 2.0 and they are sitting here, so far everyone has talked me out of them, if I get bored I might attempt to install them. I have a few other projects to do first.
I did speak to Vortex and said they have not had a 2021 to test for fitment yet. I offered mine, but didn't hear back lol.
 

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Thanks for the reply Streetfigher! I wasn't sure if you had to relocate the master and reservoir. Does yours have ABS? Did you elect to move your reservoir?
It looks like you used the OEM shift rod?
ZX6R and comfort do not go together, I bought mine for the track as well and these 600 break in miles on the street are BRUTAL!!!!!
I ordered a pair of the 2.0 and they are sitting here, so far everyone has talked me out of them, if I get bored I might attempt to install them. I have a few other projects to do first.
I did speak to Vortex and said they have not had a 2021 to test for fitment yet. I offered mine, but didn't hear back lol.
My intent was track only so I ordered without ABS. I had to move the reservoir because the master has to be relocated “back” which shortened the tube connecting the two. Just went with the “superbike reservoir kit” from STG. I also had to order a longer shift rod and cut it to fit. The stock if I remember was too long by a bunch. If you want to PM me, I can send you more detailed pics of my build with some “lessons learned”. Lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Vortex did respond to my email, in case anyone is looking at this thread. This is what they said:
Hi David,

I did some talking with my technicians and it sounds like the rearset will bolt up to your frame, there just may be some fitment issues with your quickshifter and kickstand. If this is a track-only bike and you have removed your kickstand, it should fit and not have clearance issues. With the quickshifter, you would need to find a shorter shift rod than we provide with the kit.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
My intent was track only so I ordered without ABS. I had to move the reservoir because the master has to be relocated “back” which shortened the tube connecting the two. Just went with the “superbike reservoir kit” from STG. I also had to order a longer shift rod and cut it to fit. The stock if I remember was too long by a bunch. If you want to PM me, I can send you more detailed pics of my build with some “lessons learned”. Lol.
I only did 2 track days so far (in my lifetime), so I went with ABS for now and can delete it later. I have not done a trackday on this bike yet because I have not completed the break in yet and its also winter time here lol.
I will take these out to the garage and line them up to see the differences, I will probably wait to do anything until I figure out the ABS. If I get good enough to delete the ABS or if it is interfering too much then I'll get rid of it. From what I hear, bleeding the ABS is PIA because of where its located (although that might be different on the newer gen but I doubt it). And if I'm moving stuff around I'll switch to steel braided lines at the same time.
 

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ABS doesn't hold me back on the track (for me anyway). I believe all the 636 ABS from 2013 up use the same ABS. There is no ABS unit to bleed. You do the calipers and master just like on any other bike. That reminds me I have to do my rear brake on my 2013. The biggest difference is the longer lines mean more fluid and more time to bleed. My CBR600RR was a pain as the braking system was a much more complex operation and you had to "jump wire" the unit into a bleeding mode. Not to mention it was a 24 lb addition over the non-ABS CBR. I will say even under hard braking neither bike exhibits a pulsation at the controls.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ABS doesn't hold me back on the track (for me anyway). I believe all the 636 ABS from 2013 up use the same ABS. There is no ABS unit to bleed. You do the calipers and master just like on any other bike. That reminds me I have to do my rear brake on my 2013. The biggest difference is the longer lines mean more fluid and more time to bleed. My CBR600RR was a pain as the braking system was a much more complex operation and you had to "jump wire" the unit into a bleeding mode. Not to mention it was a 24 lb addition over the non-ABS CBR. I will say even under hard braking neither bike exhibits a pulsation at the controls.
Good to know...on all accounts.
 
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