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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All. When I hit the start button, the bike doesn't start, I can hear a relay or something clicking - after a few tries (4-5) it may sometimes start so it's intermittent. Once it's kicked over the bike ran perfectly. I tried hitting the top and bottom indicator buttons while on OD to see if I get a code, but all I get is the clock controls activated - must mean no codes present?. It's a 2023 with around 800 miles. Also, I thought I'd look for something out of the ordinary, as I was looking around the RH clip on, it looks like there is something missing to cover these wires. I have nothing to compare this too - is it normal? I had some clip-ons installed a month ago with lots of good riding, do you think the install had anything to do with this? Thanks you.

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Lol. Well whoever did your “install” left your brake switch off. Sucks too because it’s a 23 and 800 miles so the dealership you got it from should be fixing this. But you voided any warranty work if it happens to be related to the wiring on your clip ons. I’d suspect it is being whoever installed those clip ons manage to screw even the simple stuff up. And that’s the side the starter switch is on. Brand new and only 800 miles doubtfully it’s the starter already. But electrical stuff ya just never know.

looks like by your other post you arnt getting power drain when you hit the switch. I’d pull all those controls off that clip on and see what else the installer managed to screw up
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Lol. Well whoever did your “install” left your brake switch off. Sucks too because it’s a 23 and 800 miles so the dealership you got it from should be fixing this. But you voided any warranty work if it happens to be related to the wiring on your clip ons. I’d suspect it is being whoever installed those clip ons manage to screw even the simple stuff up. And that’s the side the starter switch is on. Brand new and only 800 miles doubtfully it’s the starter already. But electrical stuff ya just never know.

looks like by your other post you arnt getting power drain when you hit the switch. I’d pull all those controls off that clip on and see what else the installer managed to screw up
Agreed. The thing is, the clip-ons were installed a few months ago, worked fine until yesterday. Anyways, I disassembled the starter assembly (pretty simple - just two screws) on the RH clip-on and it looks ok, no open wires - all the solder connections for the wires inside look good. Very simple switch assembly, two mechanical switches (just open or closed), I'll buzz it out to make sure they're doing their job being open or closed, LOL. As far as that connector plug going to the brake switch is concerned, it looks like the back of the connector just fell off because I'm getting brake lights when I use it, so I don't think it's related to the starting issue. However can you guys post a picture so I can see what this is supposed to look like? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
From another bike website, it's down to 2 possible things: 1) The battery is dead or 2) the starter is failing.
It goes on to say that the motorcycle’s battery is the most likely reason your bike is just clicking when you’re trying to start it. I hope they're right. As it says, bikes are pretty straightforward machines; even the most innovative ECU regulated bikes are straightforward when it comes to starting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey all, I found this bit of info just now, needless to say, I'll be pulling the battery out having it checked out with a load tester.

A lot of folks post that their bike won't start but makes a fast clicking noise. This post is to explain what the noise is and why it happens.

The starter motor on a bike uses a lot of power to turn the engine. The starter button cannot handle the current that the starter draws from the battery so a large electric switch called a solenoid is used. The solenoid can always be found by following the heavy wire from the battery + terminal.

If the battery is healthy, when you press the starter button it sends a small electrical current to the solenoid which pulls in a contact with a heavy 'click' and supplies the heavy current to the starter motor. The starter is now connected directly to the battery and can crank the engine.

If the battery is not in good condition, or close to being fully discharged, something different happens. This time when you press the starter button it sends a small current to the solenoid which once again engages with a heavy click. This time however, because the battery is low on charge it doesn't have the capacity to supply the starter with the heavy current it needs but the starter is still demanding that current so it takes what it can from the battery until the voltage drops down almost to zero. Now the solenoid no longer has enough power to keep the contact in and it releases with another heavy click. This releases the starter load on the battery which recovers enough to once again energise the starter solenoid and you get another click. As before, the starter load pulls the battery voltage down to zero, the solenoid releases and it clicks again.

The solenoid will keep clicking like this in rapid succession until you either release the starter button, or the battery becomes so flat that it will no longer energise the solenoid at all.

If you have this fast-clicking noise then firstly check the battery connections are nice and tight, as loose or corroded terminals can also cause the same symptoms. Next check the voltage across the battery terminals, or if you don't have a multimeter put a battery charger on the battery to build-up some charge. If after charging your battery for a while you still get the clicking noise there's a good chance your battery has come to the end of it's life and you require a new one. Try not to let your bike stand for long periods without giving it a top-up charge or leaving it connected to a battery tender/optimiser. Allowing a bike battery to discharge for any length of time can quickly reduce it's capacity.
 

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Yea for sure could be a dead battery. That’s an easy check. But thought you said happens sometimes then don’t. It’s literally a brand new bike so if it is the battery I suspect you have something else going on. Unless you have just left your switch on or something
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Yea for sure could be a dead battery. That’s an easy check. But thought you said happens sometimes then don’t. It’s literally a brand new bike so if it is the battery I suspect you have something else going on. Unless you have just left your switch on or something
If the battery doesn't have enough current, the starter relay (solenoid) isn't going to trip and make that clicking sound. In other words, the battery becomes so flat that it will no longer energize the solenoid at all.
The OEM battery on my ZX is a no-name brand, not a well-made one like Yuasa. I did a search on this forum going way back and guys had similar clicking issues where they replaced batteries and it fixed the issue. Bike shops are open tomorrow, I'll report back. Thanks everyone.
 

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If the battery doesn't have enough current, the starter relay (solenoid) isn't going to trip and make that clicking sound. In other words, the battery becomes so flat that it will no longer energize the solenoid at all.
The OEM battery on my ZX is a no-name brand, not a well-made one like Yuasa. I did a search on this forum going way back and guys had similar clicking issues where they replaced batteries and it fixed the issue. Bike shops are open tomorrow, I'll report back. Thanks everyone.
Yea. Obviously. Just saying. Must of read your problem wrong. Working fine. Then all the sudden Flat dead then back to working fine isn’t a symptom of a dead battery.
At the end of the day this is a warranty problem and the dealership should sort you out.

anyone know why 99% of motorcycle shops closed on Monday? Our dealership started in1937 we have always been closed Sunday and wed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Yea. Obviously. Just saying. Must of read your problem wrong. Working fine. Then all the sudden Flat dead then back to working fine isn’t a symptom of a dead battery.
At the end of the day this is a warranty problem and the dealership should sort you out.

anyone know why 99% of motorcycle shops closed on Monday? Our dealership started in1937 we have always been closed Sunday and wed.
I can see a battery draining by hitting the start button over and over, until it goes flat, but then you stop it, this releases the starter load on the battery which recovers enough to once again energize the starter solenoid and you get another click.
Closing on Mondays is a Tradition or Dealers Are Just Straight-Up Tired. LOL
I found a Kawasaki dealer nowhere near me that was open, and the mechanic first words were, "replace that battery". LOL
 

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That’s super odd being it’s a brand new bike. There is specs on what the manufacturer have us dealers install. Could you post a pic of yours? If it’s a generic and you bought this as a new unit then the dealership is keeping the battery’s supplied and swapping them with generic ones. Guess to sell the good one? Idk. But that’s shady.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
That’s super odd being it’s a brand new bike. There is specs on what the manufacturer have us dealers install. Could you post a pic of yours? If it’s a generic and you bought this as a new unit then the dealership is keeping the battery’s supplied and swapping them with generic ones. Guess to sell the good one? Idk. But that’s shady.
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LOL it's a Yuasa - a name brand battery manufacturer. I thought it was something else (no clue from looking at the top of it while its in the bike).
 

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My scooter, which sits a lot when the weather is cold, will not start if the battery is low. There is a point where it will start but needs a fiddling with the brake leavers and ignition switch and then it will start. Sometimes that just does not work! Had the push it home a couple of weeks ago. It started with fiddling and I rode to the gas station, filled it up and then it to the local Chick-fil-A. It refused to start so pushed it home, less than 2 miles. Charged the battery and it started perfectly! It has fuel injection and no kick starter.

With carbs used to be only had to worry about having enough power to turn the starter. With fuel injection and computers need enough power to run the fuel pump, power the ECU and turn the starter. My scooter seems to see the low voltage and just not start - it "flashes" a low battery code. LOL yea I finally counted the flashes and then read the manual!

OP I cannot believe they put a 5 year old battery in the bike but probably were scrambling to get products out the door and figured getting the bike out was important so just use the old battery. That is frustrating and I'm sure they will replace under warranty. I'd rather have a bike with a gimpy battery than no bike at all. Seems like the supply chain is doing pretty good now but am amazed at the shortages that still crop up. Many many years ago (yea I'm old) there was a book called Megatrends. It was about globalization and I said at the time it was going to lead to problems. Some we have seen like the leveling of wages and benefits and some were exposed by COVID. Just in time inventory didn't work so well during the pandemic and now people are re-thinking strategies. Well maybe they should have thought first ...

My scooter is a Kymco Compagnia 110i made in Taiwan and has been a great little scooter
 

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My scooter, which sits a lot when the weather is cold, will not start if the battery is low. There is a point where it will start but needs a fiddling with the brake leavers and ignition switch and then it will start. Sometimes that just does not work! Had the push it home a couple of weeks ago. It started with fiddling and I rode to the gas station, filled it up and then it to the local Chick-fil-A. It refused to start so pushed it home, less than 2 miles. Charged the battery and it started perfectly! It has fuel injection and no kick starter.

With carbs used to be only had to worry about having enough power to turn the starter. With fuel injection and computers need enough power to run the fuel pump, power the ECU and turn the starter. My scooter seems to see the low voltage and just not start - it "flashes" a low battery code. LOL yea I finally counted the flashes and then read the manual!

OP I cannot believe they put a 5 year old battery in the bike but probably were scrambling to get products out the door and figured getting the bike out was important so just use the old battery. That is frustrating and I'm sure they will replace under warranty. I'd rather have a bike with a gimpy battery than no bike at all. Seems like the supply chain is doing pretty good now but am amazed at the shortages that still crop up. Many many years ago (yea I'm old) there was a book called Megatrends. It was about globalization and I said at the time it was going to lead to problems. Some we have seen like the leveling of wages and benefits and some were exposed by COVID. Just in time inventory didn't work so well during the pandemic and now people are re-thinking strategies. Well maybe they should have thought first ...

My scooter is a Kymco Compagnia 110i made in Taiwan and has been a great little scooter
Where did you get it was a 5 year old battery?

all new bikes are delivered to the dealership with the supplied battery. It’s on the crate with the bike still in the yusa box. No way kawi shipped with an old battery.
 

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Where did you get it was a 5 year old battery?

all new bikes are delivered to the dealership with the supplied battery. It’s on the crate with the bike still in the yusa box. No way kawi shipped with an old battery.
Shady dealers will swap the good Yuasa with a rando 'Extreme Powersports!' no-name, so that they can rape someone who brought their bike in for service by selling that 'new Yuasa OEM factory-original' battery (that the dealer didn't have to supply nearly the Cost of Goods Sold for). Great way to improve margins without it hitting your books.

I have such an 'Extreem Powersports, Dude!' battery in my bike: the battery it came with as a 2017 leftover (and note the stripped Phillips head in the ground terminal. I also found the RH seat bolt was cross-threaded and only partially in the hole and had to chase the threads with a tap).
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