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If you keep a thing long enough, you will always get your money's worth out of it.

Doesn't really matter whether it was new or used when you purchase it..... as soon as it moves, it's used.

The first model year of any design or re-design is fraught with potential missteps by the designers and mfg team. Now we get to add, softeware dev team to that, too.

If the newer version does not weigh less, or go faster....... why go with the new version?
 

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If you keep a thing long enough, you will always get your money's worth out of it.

Doesn't really matter whether it was new or used when you purchase it..... as soon as it moves, it's used.

The first model year of any design or re-design is fraught with potential missteps by the designers and mfg team. Now we get to add, softeware dev team to that, too.

If the newer version does not weigh less, or go faster....... why go with the new version?
To get a ninja 400 headlight
 

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I've always said this, and you can ALWAYS save money buying an already built race bike...but there's something to be said about buying something brand new and not a pile of someone elses hammered shit that you're left to fix before you say it's ready to race.

One day, I'll buy something brand new...one day.
I did. I don't recommend it.
 

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If you buy new, there is IMHO a much stronger potential for remorse..... There is a huge expectation that the thing is perfect, and unsullied. Virgin wood, so to speak. Adding lipstick to the pig doesn't change the relationship......

Nothing ever is perfect. To get value, you need a long term relationship.

This is why I as a general rule i avoid mods for the first few years I own things. Better to explore what the baseline capability is, before tweaking it beyond recognition. How do you know what needs to be fixed, if you don't know how it works or what it can do? Takes time to learn.

I'm convinced this '09 would have had less issues if it had remained stock prior to my purchase of it. I understand the desire most have to personalize their possessions..... Never been something that has interested me. Changes that improve the bike are generally subjective, and have an impact on reliability. I'd rather spend my time riding..... And my money on the consumables that it takes to do that.

Just change the things that hinder the experience, rather than attempt to redesign the bike.
 

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Immediate depreciation. It's there for literally any vehicle you buy new, and there for a reason. Cars are just as bad, outside of a bigger audience to try to sell it off if you made a mistake.
 

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I've always said this, and you can ALWAYS save money buying an already built race bike...but there's something to be said about buying something brand new and not a pile of someone elses hammered shit that you're left to fix before you say it's ready to race.

One day, I'll buy something brand new...one day.
Bought mine new in 2016 and glad I did. I didn’t know I’d be racing back then but it’s nice knowing there has been NO neglect, no damage etc and you know what has been done or not done to the bike. Even used race bikes tend to be piles and that’s why they sell for so little compared to the value of the parts. I’ll probably never sell this bike, just fix it or use for spares lol.
 

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1) I have been taken for over $2000 by Kawasaki motorcycles and my local dealer. The 2019 zx6r is advertised at a price of $9999. I paid close to $11K after taxes etc and quickly discovered that this is hardly the perfect sportbike.

2) The market has fallen completely on this new model and now dealers are listing them for under 8K!!!! The model year is only 6 months old and dealers here in AZ are dumping them, if they can, for thousands less than I paid as an honest consumer in March of this year.

3) I will NEVER buy a Kawasaki again and I cannot even get my dealer, or others, to consider a buy [back] bike unless I'm willing to take $6K. What a scam. This is crazy. I have been riding and racing for over 45 years, both road and moto-cross. Being involved in motorcycles and competition is not free, I understand that.

4) But what Kaw has done with this marketing strategy is unforgivable. I now have only 310 miles on my 2019 zx6r and have not had a single offer at $6999. As some might guess, Kawasaki knew exactly what they were doing and by shaving costs, they created a less than perfect machine and the consumer will pay the price.

5) I would greatly appreciate any feedback from 2019 owners regarding their bike and the throttle hesitation/unpredictability that I have been encountering to a dangerous degree...especially trying to start from a red light with cars coming up behind you. Dealer states that, "they are all like that because of the new emissions". I cannot imagine coming out of a corner at a track day at full lean and not having acceleration when you absolutely need it.

6) Anyone else finding the 1st to 2nd gear full of false neutrals? Dealer states, "It's brand new and needs time to break in".

7) For those of you who have had great experiences with Kawasaki, I mean no disrespect! Plenty of you have won on this machine. It corners like a scalpel and is wonderfully balanced. I would creamed by this machine at so many track days on my CBR 600rr. Point of fact...I'd take my CBR back anyday. NO mechanicals of any sort in 3 years of track days!!! It held its value and sold immediately.


To: MetalMoto999,

Dear Sir: you sound rather unhappy with your recent purchase, a.k.a. 'buyer's remorse.' Those situations are always sad and unfortunate... for everyone involved. I've taken the liberty of taking your original post and parsing it out a wee bit just for ease for others - including myself in keeping our places. Note: I have whittled some of the more extraneous portions out as well. I'll comment on each of the seven paragraphs in order in an attempt of transparency.

1) No one wins in an unhappy purchase experience. It's true for minor purchases as well as large purchases. You seem to be put out that you did not leave your dealer merely $10,000.00 lighter. You admit to living in AZ. A quick search tells me that Arizona's tax structure is vaguely thus, Base state sales tax rate is 5.6%. But that's only the base rate because it varies by ZIP code because of local & county taxation rates. So, a resident would be looking at adding state sales tax that the dealer can in no legal fashion alter/decrease such tax fees. Just as the dealer cannot fail to collect various, county, city, or other legal taxing jurisdiction fees. I would wager that to do so would be one or more felonies. I don't live in your fair state so am completely in the dark. But published combined taxation could run 11.2% or higher.

Also, I gather you failed to inquire into dealer setup fees. Your bike comes to the dealer in a box and the shop has to put the wheels, mirrors on, etc. They have to put fluids in and topped off. The guys in the shop do not work for free. They have a check list that they must go through.

Now some of us :BigGrin negotiate to drop those fees. It is all part of the overall profit structure for the dealer. Now whom ever you purchased your bike from is not a rat-bastard for charging you such fees. It's an industry wide practice.

2 & 3) Now item #2 is an indelicate situation... and to be sure, such Qs & As are not unique to the moto-industry. You find yourself having second thoughts about your purchase. It happens... to everyone at sometime; it's universal. But as I understand from your own words that the (sport) bike market has crashed in your area. And for certain reasons this gets you thinking that, "... Hey, I just bought my bike 6 months ago and now some schmuck can buy the same bike for a handsome discount, that ain't fair.... " Excuse my ignorance, but I live in Oregon - we have winters up here, and every one in my neck of the woods knows the best time to buy a sport bike is in the autumn/winter. And am hazarding a guess, that the inverse might be said of the AZ summer.

Oh, no dealer is gonna refund your monies after six months. Buy a new washer & dryer and see how much they'll buy it back for (unless there are warranty/recall issues).

4) Ah sir, Kawasaki is in the business of building and selling bikes! They have not impugned you. You bought a brand new bike, it runs, it is still under warranty. And the fact the you have only 310 miles on the clock is really your deficit. As an aside I came to my '15 with no middle-weight experience, only 35-yrs of litre bike riding/racing. And I admit we had to have a 'honeymoon' of +9 mos. And it should be noted that I ride year round. Only snow/ice keeps me off a bike. I voiced my uncertainty on this very Forum more than once. Now I love 'my little beasty.'

5) OK, 1st things 1st: all bikes from the past decade have off idle stutter/glitch/cough....
Deal with it... but how might you ask DynoJet PC-V/or Bazzaz FI and some dyno time. (In the case of the PC-V, can address this via their Auto Tune, and yes before you ask the AT is extra). The biggest villain is not the EPA, it's the Euro-4 regulations.

6) No. It just YOU!!! Actually I'm taking piss out of you. Get a couple thousand miles on it, I mean get it past 600 mile oil change and things will improve. The best way to remove that glitch are fully adjustable rearsets. If you go this route (I installed my Rizoma rearsets between 500-600 miles. No more snatch in the box. Er, all you in the gallery know what I meant. Bunch of pervs. Another note, change oil whether it needs it or not every 3K-5K miles. Oh, don't any of you start yet another: "... what oil should I use thread... ?"

7) Hey, I can understand that remark you made regarding your CBR. My previous bikes were Honda VFR, CBR900RR (X2), CBR954RR; Ducati 996S; Yamaha R1 (X2); Honda CBR1000RR. So, you can see, I've been a 'Honda Guy.' And yes, Honda hold their value. R1s too; for that matter, go price a 5-yr R6. You'll shite yourself. They hold their value because look what brand has had the consistent top results in Moto-America, or regional club racing. I'll save you the bother, It's been R6s!

Because of world wide concerns about climate change, (don't talk about things you may have an opinion, yet truly do not comprehend - this is the wrong Forum for such musings), all new bikes, and most especially sportbikes of any cc capacity really are '... less than optimum... ' straight off the truck. But hey, that's part of their unique attraction.:nerd


Fortunately for you, we have a great many folks here on the Forum who are much nicer & more knowledgeable than I. And most all are quick to assist.
 

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MM999, based on other responses regarding the questions regarding emissions already and that is true. Additionally, you haven't even broken the bike in yet with only 310 miles on it. Wait til your at 600 miles, get your oil changed, things tightened and adjusted, then wait until you get to 1000 miles before you try and go hard on the bike.

Doing so before hand could potentially cause you further heartache in the long run. I am not saying "baby" the thing and keep it under 6k RPM's as the manual says because what do they expect you to do, drive on side streets and avoid highways for the 1st 600-1000 miles? Just ride smart, safe and don't do your 0-60 in 2.9 sec starts or hit the 90+ speeds until it is fully broken in.

Also, quoting you "I have been riding and racing for over 45 years, both road and moto-cross", but have you never negotiated a deal when buying a bike or even a car for that matter? I live in TX and shopped around at various dealerships with some asking the full $9999, some at $9299, $9199, even $8799 before I found the one I have (which also has about 300 miles on it now) for $8000, with my $2k trade from my 2013 Ninja 650, I was out the door at just just over $8900.

I have never paid full price on anything, period, bike, car, home, etc. never paid full price. This bike, performs extremely well for the price. Not it is not a Ducati but, you do get the bang for the buck. I too have been riding for 40+ years and have always had Kawa Ninja's with no problems at all.

If you are not happy with the dealer you purchased from, find another shop to talk to and/or have them check it out if you feel there is something wrong. Some of the guys in here also pointed out after market tips to try so you could always try that too.
 

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I've no hesitation in the throttle on mine. That said, I stripped off the stock exhaust, servo (and motor) and exhaust tank within a week. I still have the cat as didn't change headers (yet). She seems to breath just fine. Haven't gotten it on a dyno yet but its getting done soon and will probably get it mapped and get the suspension setup for me.
 

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my '19 has idle hesitation, but I have found out that is happens more during break in, and wayyyy more at altitude. I know this is old, but if you live at 2000+ ft altitude, this is way worse. It does not exist for me at less altitude than that, and mine pulls really well at all RPMs, and is exactly what I expected when I bought it new. I am happy.

-Mike
 

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Just purchased a 2019 myself. The newest bike I have ever ridden was a 2009, so you're talking a difference of a decade.

Some members mentioned: ECU Flash or Fuel Management system. What is the difference between the two? Which is better?

Also, what is fuel decal cut?

I'll wait until my bike is fully broken in before I make a decision on if I'm happy with it or not. I'm hoping I will be.
 

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I purchased my bike from California, even though I live in Nevada (I got a good deal on it). I learned that only California models have what's called 'Evaporative Emission Control system' which is some extra parts on the bike (I think mainly within the gas tank) that are meant for stricter emissions. My understanding is that none of this negatively affects performance on the bike...however, is this stuff easily removed? Or is it not even worth removing?
 

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I purchased my bike from California, even though I live in Nevada (I got a good deal on it). I learned that only California models have what's called 'Evaporative Emission Control system' which is some extra parts on the bike (I think mainly within the gas tank) that are meant for stricter emissions. My understanding is that none of this negatively affects performance on the bike...however, is this stuff easily removed? Or is it not even worth removing?
It's easy to do. How To: 2013+ ZX6R EVAP removal, Block off plates for CA models
 

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Dan, funny enough mine was a cali model as well, purchased in AZ. Every bike on the floor in my dealer was a cali model as far as I could tell. Maybe Kawi distributers in CA just order all CA models so they can be sold everywhere on the west coast...

May take mine off as well. Maybe around my one year warranty. lol.

-Mike
 

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Why do people even bother with the block off plates? The PAIR system doesn’t affect combustion. I removed all the CA emissions stuff on my bike and just left the PAIR system as it is. The only reason I can think of for block off plates would be to enhance dyno exhaust gas ”sniffing” accuracy.
Removing the PAIR valve cleans up the exhaust tone/sound. When you replace the OEM muffler with a slip on, there is usually a lot of popping/burbling sounds during deceleration. The PAIR valve removal/block off plates resolves this and gives you a nice clean sound. However, you don't necessarily need block off plates to do this (here is my thread about that on another forum: Quickest and Easiest Kleen Air Mod in History)
 

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Why do people even bother with the block off plates? The PAIR system doesn’t affect combustion. I removed all the CA emissions stuff on my bike and just left the PAIR system as it is. The only reason I can think of for block off plates would be to enhance dyno exhaust gas ”sniffing” accuracy.
Ok boomer :LOL: lol
 
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