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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here it is the day I got it home. Almost totally stock.



I have to give a big shout out to both ilotek for help with the Hotbodies and PainfullySlo for answering 1 million questions.


List of parts installed as of April 2015:

K-Tech 25-SSK Fork Cartridges
K-Tech Fork Extenders
K-Tech 35-DDS Shock

Galfer SS lines & pads
Brembo 19RCS Master Cylinder

Bazzaz Fuel/Quickshifter/Traction Control
Woolichracing ECU flasher
Driven Racing Blockoff Plates
Graves slipon
BMC Race Air Filter

Vortex Rearsets
Vortex Sprockets & Chain (-1, +2 gearing)
GPR Steering Damper
Hotbodies bodywork
Frame Sliders
Swingarm Spools
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Tore the bike down for some new parts.



Installed the K-Tech shock:



Last installs were:

Bazzaz fuel management, Quick Shifter, Traction control.
Vortex rearsets
GPR Damper
K-Tech rear shock
Vortex sprocket/chain with new gearing
Brembo RCS19 master cylinder


Test fit the track plastics

 

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How were the hotbodies? Had horrible experience with them in the past, but may have to go with them on my 6
 

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How'd you like your master cylinder I got mine last week but in the middle of installing it I realized they gave the wrong banjo I won't get one til Thursday.. What do you have to say about your braking power now
 

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Discussion Starter #8
How'd you like your master cylinder I got mine last week but in the middle of installing it I realized they gave the wrong banjo I won't get one til Thursday.. What do you have to say about your braking power now
I only got about 200-300 easygoing street miles before switching to the Brembo... But I can say that I definitely noticed how much better the braking is. It's easy 1 finger braking now. Can't wait to try it on the track in a few weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I got the laser geometry done and man did the bike feel great on the track.

I decided to go with the Bazzaz Self mapper rather than having a custom tune done, so I removed the CAT from the OEM header and I'm having the 02 sensor bung welded in tonight.

I also started painting the track plastics. This is my first attempt at painting something like this, so far I am certain that I shouldn't be a painter, I suck at it! haha. It has runs and rough spots. Maybe I'll do better with each piece I try. I'll post pics when it's done.
 

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Can you tell me (new ZX6 owner) why I would want the Block Off plates? What would they do for me without being on a track?

Is it a good mod to do for a bike that mainly sees agressive street/canyon carving?
 

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Not sure how the hell I missed this thread originally Halcyon but congrats, she looks like a beast.

Glad that you were able to put it all together in time and got the geometry sorted properly. I am eagerly looking forward to your feedback from your experience with it on the track.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Because the graves didn't fit well with the Vortex rearsets I had a friend split the pipe, bend it down and reweld it.



Which also required opening the mounting hole up and rewelding the bottom of it.





We also got the 02 bung welded in the OEM header. My exhaust is finally finished. Though I may do a ceramic coat on the headers later.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Can you tell me (new ZX6 owner) why I would want the Block Off plates? What would they do for me without being on a track?

Is it a good mod to do for a bike that mainly sees agressive street/canyon carving?
It's mainly done to bikes that are going to have aftermarket exhaust/no CAT/intake. etc, it's needed to properly tune the bike. If you aren't modding the exhaust/intake/etc I'm not sure you'd see much, if any, benefit. I've never personally done it to an otherwise stock bike though... Maybe someone else can chime in who has.


Not sure how the hell I missed this thread originally Halcyon but congrats, she looks like a beast.

Glad that you were able to put it all together in time and got the geometry sorted properly. I am eagerly looking forward to your feedback from your experience with it on the track.
It's quickly becoming my favorite bike! I feel like I finally have it to a point that I'm happy with. Exhaust done, self mapper on, suspension set.

I still have to paint the track plastics, which I'm not looking forward to. :) But at least the bike is sorted.

I tried the Dunlop GP-A Pro's for the first time. Though I didn't feel like I was really able to put them to the test yet.

The bike turns in great and goes right where I point it, no over or understeer. The suspension/geometry made such a difference. I love it.

That first track day was a shake down, now I'm ready to dial in a tune/make some ECU changes (if I can figure that part out) and really start to see what it can do. I'm expecting a huge smile to be the result!
 

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halcyon026

How did you get to remove the tail section? It looks like a single solid piece and I can't find a way to put the Tail on.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
halcyon026

How did you get to remove the tail section? It looks like a single solid piece and I can't find a way to put the Tail on.
To remove the OEM tail, you have to remove both seats, Then you'll see the screws/tabs. It comes apart in like 5-6 pieces.

As for track plastics tail:

It doesn't seem like it would fit but it does. The undertail and battery tray are one piece and the tail does fit over the sides and very end of the undertail. The points at the end of the undertail, where the brake light goes, part of it will fit into the tail section. The 'arms' of the tail have to fit over the undertail/tray one side at a time.

You sort of wrap it around the tabs/sides of the undertail. I had to get rough with it at first. Keep working at it and soon it should make sense.

I found that starting with the tail/arms more towards the back first, fitting the arms over, and letting it slide over and down into place works well. I've only had to do it a handful of times and it's still something I'm learning to do well.

ilotek had to explain this to me too.

I had the same confusion with the tail. I was use to the R6 which has an undertail and battery tray that are separate.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I decided to get the Bazzaz Self mapper, so I removed the CAT from the OEM header & had an O2 bung installed.



Then I decided I'd do a ceramic coating on the headers.



I'm basically done painting the track plastics, which is why you may have noticed the green paint all over the tarps. But I haven't done a clearcoat yet. I may still add some green to the upper fairing. But that will have to wait until after this next track day.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
It's starting to look more like a race bike. I may still add some green to the upper and front fender but have a track day tomorrow so this is it for now.
I just did rattle can with grabber green and a glass black. No clearcoat yet either.





For anyone interested in shortening the throttle throw distance... I decided I did want a shorter throw on the throttle so I installed an R6 throttle. Here's a photo of the throw difference.

The RED is the difference from OEM to R6. Dark Blue was the OEM throw distance. Aqua Blue is the R6 throttle throw distance. Seems to be about 30% less throw.




Also, incase anyone is wondering how the headers look with the VHT FlameProof ceramic coating on the bike. Notice there's plenty of room between the rearsets and slipon now.

 

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^ if i could like that twice i would. that's a very pretty track beast. good job halcyon i'm glad i was able to help with the plastics but damn dude you made that bike your own. the powder coated headers look AWESOME. i also have the stubby graves exhaust and let me tell you from experience they can take a beating. mine has been in 5 wrecks and the the carbon fiber tip ripped off but the exhaust tubing is still straight.

EDIT: i also chose the R6 throttle tube on my '13. motionpro is the next step because even with the R6 tube i still have to regrip to get to WOT.

more edits: i agree, the upper fairing needs some green.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
I decided to try and mount my rectifier to the track plastics similar to how the OEM one is mounted. It worked out well.

The 2 tricky parts are figuring out where the 3 Tee Nuts should go so their is clearance & the cables reach, and then making sure they stay in place while the JB Weld is drying. Mine ended up a little bit lower than ideal, so clearance is a bit of an issue but with some finesse (pushing, shoving, frustration) I can get it to fit. I'll likely drill new holes in the mount a bit higher than where the OEM ones are.










Here's what I used.

OEM bracket part number: 11056-2283

M6 x 1mm Tee Nuts (bend the points down):
Crown Bolt M6-1 Zinc-Plated Steel T-nuts (2-Pack)-40268 - The Home Depot

Nylon or Aluminum Spacers (I used Nylon so I could cut them to a more precise length, you'll have to measure, mount, remeasure, remount, etc to see what works) The idea with these was making sure there was clearance from the mount & 2 bolts for the rectifier to not touch the plastics.

Also, you want to keep in mind that you can't have bolts for the Tee Nuts that go too deep & bottom out before they get tight on the bracket.

0.257 in. x 1/4 in. x 1/2 in. Outer Diameter Nylon Spacer (2-Pieces)-87248 - The Home Depot

JB Weld:

J-B Weld Weld-8265-s - The Home Depot

6M x 1mm bolts & Lock washers. 12mm length seemed to work well, One may have been 16mm because the nylon spacer was longer than the other 2.

Spacer and bolt lengths will vary for each set of plastics based on the curves/bends on the side. You'll have to do some measuring once your Tee Nuts have dried in place.

TIP: Once I marked where I was going to place the Tee Nuts, I applied the JB Weld, then set the plastics on its side, and put the Bracket on, only screwing the bolts in a few threads (to make sure they didn't touch wet JB Weld at the bottom). This helps make sure the spacing of the Tee Nuts stays in place, though with the curves of the plastics, mine slid down a bit from where I first set them. But at least the 3 bolts lined up.
 
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