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If your chain is shot the sprockets probably have enough wear to need to be replaced.

Just went thru this on my Yamaha. Big question is how long do you want it to last. I'm looking for longevity so went with DID X-ring. There are other chains out there like EK which are good as well. Sprocket center seems to have a good selection of chains and sprockets but I had a bit of trouble getting mine, from best I can tell it's summer and folks are working on bikes and the supply chain (o pun intended) is messed up. If you just ride a few miles a year and take good care of your chain then a moderately good chain should last a long time. Aluminum sprockets are nice but wear quickly particularly if they are of questionable quality. I highly recommend a riveted link rather than a clip link although lots of folks have used clip links without problems and there are folks who have had riveted links fail - probably due to improper flaring.

The OEM chain on my Tracer GT has some slightly stiff links at 11,000 miles - possible due to lack of care during the 5,000 mile trip last month.
 

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If your chain is shot the sprockets probably have enough wear to need to be replaced.

Just went thru this on my Yamaha. Big question is how long do you want it to last. I'm looking for longevity so went with DID X-ring. There are other chains out there like EK which are good as well. Sprocket center seems to have a good selection of chains and sprockets but I had a bit of trouble getting mine, from best I can tell it's summer and folks are working on bikes and the supply chain (o pun intended) is messed up. If you just ride a few miles a year and take good care of your chain then a moderately good chain should last a long time. Aluminum sprockets are nice but wear quickly particularly if they are of questionable quality. I highly recommend a riveted link rather than a clip link although lots of folks have used clip links without problems and there are folks who have had riveted links fail - probably due to improper flaring.

The OEM chain on my Tracer GT has some slightly stiff links at 11,000 miles - possible due to lack of care during the 5,000 mile trip last month.

Al,

You would benefit from a Scot Oiler.
 

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If you want a decent chain you need to pay for it....

good, better, best is subjective....but given the thousands of chains I have seen throughout their life......

good;
RK XSO series

DID VX series, currently on rendition 3
EK SRO series currently on rendition 2


better;
RK GXW series
EK MVXZ series currently on rendition 2



best;
DID ZVMX
EK ZVX3

If you want the same in sprockets.....

I would not recommend anything at all except the following...... and I would only go with steel!

good quality;
Sunstar
Superlite RSX series



superior quality;
Supersprox
 
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^^ Lloyd, we both think any chain will last longer, given proper maintenance.... the guys you see with stupendous mileage on their chains who do use Scot oilers; do you know what brands for chain and sprockets they've run?
 

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^^ Lloyd, we both think any chain will last longer, given proper maintenance.... the guys you see with stupendous mileage on their chains who do use Scot oilers; do you know what brands for chain and sprockets they've run?
almost all of them OEM, because they install those scott oilers early or right away.... and some of those fucks then last 40k or more, messy but last 2x, 3x or even 4x what the average guy with a can of spray lube gets

in the case of ma kaw, that usually means a top of the line DID you can only buy from ma kaw
ie.... the HV series for most ZX6R's dating back many years
 
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Al,

You would benefit from a Scot Oiler.
Yes I would! I'm looking at them now but the downside is they are messy. However at the end of a long day I'm tired and it is too easy to skip oiling the chain. LOL just bought one, we shall see how it does. Got the vacuum version. Also ordered a Vortex rear sprocket. Not sue about ZX6Rs but for my Tracer GT I'm having lots of difficulty finding chains and sprockets. Wound up with a 120 link chain when I need 118 as the 118 were out of stock.
 

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messy but last 2x, 3x or even 4x what the average guy with a can of spray lube gets
While this sounds like a good thing, I will happily spend the extra $200 to change my chain twice as often and not have to deal with the enormous amount of gunk on the underside of my bike. If you do big miles (which I don't) then it is probably a better idea but a chain set already lasts me 6-7 seasons with little effort and absolutely zero cleaning of crap off the bike. Amortized over the life of a chain set it costs me the equivalent of 2-3 fancy coffees per year to not have to clean that shit off the bike. I will pay that tax with a smile every time. As always, YMMV.


Wound up with a 120 link chain when I need 118 as the 118 were out of stock.
That's easily fixable. I find the 120 link chains are almost always the cheapest by a good margin and worth the effort required to grind a pin out and shorten to the correct length.


Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If you want a decent chain you need to pay for it....

good, better, best is subjective....but given the thousands of chains I have seen throughout their life......

good;
RK XSO series

DID VX series, currently on rendition 3
EK SRO series currently on rendition 2


better;
RK GXW series
EK MVXZ series currently on rendition 2



best;
DID ZVMX
EK ZVX3

If you want the same in sprockets.....

I would not recommend anything at all except the following...... and I would only go with steel!

good quality;
Sunstar
Superlite RSX series



superior quality;
Supersprox
Appreciate it! I'm looking for quality so price isn't a huge factor. I want something that'll handle abuse!
 

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Yes I would! I'm looking at them now but the downside is they are messy. However at the end of a long day I'm tired and it is too easy to skip oiling the chain. LOL just bought one, we shall see how it does. Got the vacuum version. Also ordered a Vortex rear sprocket. Not sue about ZX6Rs but for my Tracer GT I'm having lots of difficulty finding chains and sprockets. Wound up with a 120 link chain when I need 118 as the 118 were out of stock.
I was of the impression that the flow rate is adjustable. Between that and the vacuum version which only applies the lube when the engine is running, it seemed to me that the mess would be minimized. Having some glop on the rim, under the front sprocket cover, on the tail section of the bike is the cost of having a chain drive, IMHO.
 

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I was of the impression that the flow rate is adjustable. Between that and the vacuum version which only applies the lube when the engine is running, it seemed to me that the mess would be minimized. Having some glop on the rim, under the front sprocket cover, on the tail section of the bike is the cost of having a chain drive, IMHO.
I have perhaps a half dozen customers with these. They are the filthiest pigsty piles of dung I ever see come in....... and the wheels always have about a pound of sand and road grime on the whole fucking thing at every tire change
and yep you can adjust the flow rate but you cannot stop fling, and when a drop hits your chain right in front of the rear sprocket and centrifugal force throws atleast half of that drop off.......... it gets messy pretty quickly
 

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I have perhaps a half dozen customers with these. They are the filthiest pigsty piles of dung I ever see come in....... and the wheels always have about a pound of sand and road grime on the whole fucking thing at every tire change
That's why they get you to change tires instead of doing it themselves. They know what mess awaits down there.:D


Mark
 

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I ordered a vacuum operated Scottoiler, will have to see how much mess it makes - I don't like mess! Over the years have used several different chain lubes and have gotten pretty good at keeping the chain lubed without much fling. On long trips its too easy for me to skip lubing and not a good way to clean. Just learned Scottoiler has two different lubes - a "normal" temperature one and a "hot" temperature one. Their definition of hot is more like my definition of normal but to be expected as think they are from England.

Back when I went to work every day I would lube my chain once a week maybe two but rode only 20 miles a day. My CBR600RR had 18,000 miles on the OEM chain when I sold it and it was in good shape.

Seems like chains are getting smaller. My 2004 FZ6 had a 530 that lasted about 24,000 miles and could have gone a bit further. CBR 600RR had a 525 and was good at 18,000 miles. ZX6R had only 7,000 miles on it and was in very good condition. Tracer GT with 850cc engine has a 525 and at 11,000 has some stiff links - not bad but not good enough to take out on a 6,000 mile trip. Seems like a 530 would be better for the Tracer GT, maybe next replacement will think about that.
 

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^ absolutely the 530 chains last longer than the 520's........... much more surface area to distribute the wear over

thus many bikes that came with 532 chains as standard and then swap to a 520 "conversion" suddenly lose 25%-40% of their chain life

I try to explain this to people and they don't get it, they just think that (total chain and sprocket weight savings of sub 1 lb) means everything and then they brag about the "mods" they did to their shitbox and think a 520 conversion is something to brag about..... then you look and they have shitbox chineseum craptastic junk sprockets on the bike like JT or RMA or any number of the dozen rebranded craptastic chineseum garbage
 

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A followup on my chain. Put new chain and sprockets on almost 4 weeks ago. Biggest problem was using 12 point sockets on the rear sprocket nuts - rounded the last one! Bought a set of the cam sockets and it got that nut off easily! Chain master link was clip instead of rivet and didn't have time to get a rivet link so went with clip. Bought a Scottoiler and the dual sided nozzle. Not too difficult to install - used a vacuum port off of one if the throttle bodies. Left on a 6,200 mile trip. Trip report - Scottoiler didnt seem to work for the first coupe of days and I fiddled with the settings. When I got to Sioux Falls SD (1,700 miles traveled) had a day to work on it and fiddled with the nozzles and bought a can a chain lube. After that it worked well although the inside of the chain was always better lubed than the outside. Mess? It is a nasty setup for sure. Got lube on the rim which ran off and onto the side of the tire! Wound up wiping off the wheel every morning - hummm that may have been as much trouble as spraying chain lube on it every day! So inspecting the chain this morning and it is right in the middle of the adjustment range (35 - 45). I set it at 38 when I left but in reality was probably 37. Also the clip disappeared somewhere along the way!!!!! Bought an EK rivet link just before I left and may put that on or just get another clip. Know it was on for at least 2,000 miles but not sure when it came off. May have been the last day when I hit something in the road - may have been a coiled messed up piece of rubber or silicone caulk they put between the concrete slabs. Doesn't look like it was off for a long time.

Chain looks great and have not done anything but Scottoiler. Bike - its nasty! Chain lube, dirt and bugs and needs a through cleaning.
 

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Good to see you back, Al. Sounds like the scot oiler is more nasty than I thought….. can you reduce the application rate any further? Perhaps thicker oil?
 

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People routinely run gear oil in the hot months but it is still a messy pigsty of shit.....

All of it will fling, science !!! no getting around centrifugal forces and fling....... if you could put something on that would not fling it also would not flow out the oiler or a can of aerosol spray lube
 
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