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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys I know there are numerous threads about this but I couldn’t really find any confirmation if actually replacing the ECU with the model that ends in 63 definitely remediates the issue of the bike stalling on cold starts

I recently changed the oil to full synthetic and always keep it on a battery tender now regardless so it seems to have improved somewhat or maybe because it’s sitting in a warm garage

Just wondering if I should pull the trigger on getting a new ECU with the latest revision number or would it be a waste. Warranty expired on the bike so don’t want to deal with a dealership.
 

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The knob on the cable by your left knee when you sit on the bike adjusts idle speed. Clockwise direction for faster, the other way to lower the idle speed.

You could try raising the idle a bit, and see if that improves the condition.

The updated ECU is likely the best fix, but I would personally do a tune up first. Plugs, air filter, valve clearances inspected,possibly synchronize the throttle bodies.... Get it running as right as you can, then evaluate. If it still bothers you, THEN buy the updated ECU.
 

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Hey guys I know there are numerous threads about this but I couldn’t really find any confirmation if actually replacing the ECU with the model that ends in 63 definitely remediates the issue of the bike stalling on cold starts

I recently changed the oil to full synthetic and always keep it on a battery tender now regardless so it seems to have improved somewhat or maybe because it’s sitting in a warm garage

Just wondering if I should pull the trigger on getting a new ECU with the latest revision number or would it be a waste. Warranty expired on the bike so don’t want to deal with a dealership.
I have a 2013 and had the ECU ending in 62, and it would need 20 full seconds of warm up with no gas, or clutch play otherwise it would die. It also just sounded bad starting up at like 600RPM and then slow warming up, to me in bothered me. 3 weeks ago I bought a ECU off ebay ending in 63 ($120) and it runs much better, fully warmed in 5 seconds, starts at a higher RPM, and does not die with clutch or gas. I fully recommend it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have a 2013 and had the ECU ending in 62, and it would need 20 full seconds of warm up with no gas, or clutch play otherwise it would die. It also just sounded bad starting up at like 600RPM and then slow warming up, to me in bothered me. 3 weeks ago I bought a ECU off ebay ending in 63 ($120) and it runs much better, fully warmed in 5 seconds, starts at a higher RPM, and does not die with clutch or gas. I fully recommend it.
will it matter if the ECU is from a abs or non-abs model?
 

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It's not just an issue with 2013 models and it's hit or miss regardless of the ecu number. Manufactured by Denso Japan- 900$ cost to customers new..... they don't scrap all the ones returned from Kawasaki guarentee.... they're reworked with a new part #. That's why 2014 and up models still randomly have the issue. (Former 18yr service dmtn employee). The issue can clear up, and can also appear and get worse. Consistent quality is a common problem dealing with various motorcycle components (vehicle quality problems have increased even with reliable manufacturers like Toyota and Honda also). Quality always suffers when the market domination is on the agenda. Good luck.
 
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