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I’m having electrical issues with my 09. I was riding to work when all of a sudden the instrument cluster cut out and my bike went into a limp mode and would let me put down any throttle. When I got home I charged the battery it started up but riding t 15/20 minutes it did the same exact thing. So went home tested the ohms on the stator harness all were at .05. Tested the regulator volts didn’t jump when I gave it throttle. Today I popped in my boys battery from his bike started right up no issues went to go ride around 10 minutes in did the same exact thing, cluster shut off and couldn’t give it gas. Got home shut the bike off for a little then came back to it. The relay ticked but didn’t start.

Any ideas? Could it still be the stator or regulator? I’m all out of ideas. Anybody help please.
 

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There is a recall on the reg/rectifier so you should call a Kawi dealer and give them your VIN to see if it has been replaced. It could be the stator. Easy way to check is connect a multimeter to the battery with the bike off and it should read about 12.8-13v, then start the bike and the voltage should spike up to 14v or so. If you don't see a spike, it's not charging properly. It's been awhile but the same happened to my 09 stator even after the rectifier was replaced under recall.

Sent from my LM-X410.FGN using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #5
There is a recall on the reg/rectifier so you should call a Kawi dealer and give them your VIN to see if it has been replaced. It could be the stator. Easy way to check is connect a multimeter to the battery with the bike off and it should read about 12.8-13v, then start the bike and the voltage should spike up to 14v or so. If you don't see a spike, it's not charging properly. It's been awhile but the same happened to my 09 stator even after the rectifier was replaced under recall.

Sent from my LM-X410.FGN using Tapatalk
When I tested it with the bike off i think it was around 14 then when I turned it on i think around 15
 

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I do not..... the one specifically that gave me the most grief is directly under the rubber skirt beneath the fuel tank area. Don't know if that's the main ground wire, but it's for sure involved in the engine ground -- I had significant trouble with my oil pressure sending unit as a result of that bad connection. I am a big believer in dielectric grease. Every. Single. Connection. flood it with grease before you put it back together to keep oxygen away. Also limits water intrusion, both of which limit corrosion and higher resistance.
 

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Likely unrelated but I had an issue on my first '09 where the wiring loom was mis-routed through the frame. The rubbing caused it to short a ton of stuff mostly sending the speedo crazy even at idle. Can't find the pic but it was VERY obvious once stripped back to see the loom. Free fix from Kawasaki obviously.
 

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I do not..... the one specifically that gave me the most grief is directly under the rubber skirt beneath the fuel tank area. Don't know if that's the main ground wire, but it's for sure involved in the engine ground -- I had significant trouble with my oil pressure sending unit as a result of that bad connection. I am a big believer in dielectric grease. Every. Single. Connection. flood it with grease before you put it back together to keep oxygen away. Also limits water intrusion, both of which limit corrosion and higher resistance.
I was thinking this. Under the tank that is the main chassis ground. Before I assembled my 07 after a valve adjustment, it only made sense because that area is exposed to fuel, water, dirt, etc. Sanded it down, bolted it on, and instantly knew that ground wouldn't be an issue for me in the future. Vaseline is a good bet to coat the ground AFTER sanding and bolting it down.

When I tested it with the bike off i think it was around 14 then when I turned it on i think around 15
Another thought about this...... How old is the battery? Have you had it load tested?

My Walmart AGM battery lasted only 4 years due to improper charging and long storage time. I swapped the Walmart AGM battery for a new one, brought the old one in and got a $15 core deposit. Charged it with a 0.8Amp Beltran Battery Tender. Kawasaki manual says to charge once a month at a low amp, some people keep their tenders on 24/7 which I don't think is necessary, it's negligible at best, 'float charging'. My old Walmart AGM battery would lose complete charge to less than 3 volts in a month. This new one holds 12.8 all week connected to my bike. I think the total cost for the 12v Walmart AGM battery was 35-40$ when I brought in the old one. The new one was a brand new, fill it in yourself one. Meaning the AGM battery starts its life the moment you pour in the Sulfuric Acid, instead of being stored on a warehouse shelf for who knows how long.......... Kawasaki manual said to leave the cap loosely fitted during charging, the battery manual said to seal it before charging. I left it open, connected to a multi meter behind a blast glass so I could see if it is properly charging.
 

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When I tested it with the bike off i think it was around 14 then when I turned it on i think around 15
15 May be too high..... The regulator should not allow the D.C. Voltage to go above 14.7

12.3 bike off
Around 13 at idle
14.7 above 3K or so, all the way to redline.

Your charging system, isn't. Shows voltage, but that doesn't mean work can be done. There must be a complete circuit for current to flow.
 

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15 May be too high..... The regulator should not allow the D.C. Voltage to go above 14.7

12.3 bike off
Around 13 at idle
14.7 above 3K or so, all the way to redline.

Your charging system, isn't. Shows voltage, but that doesn't mean work can be done. There must be a complete circuit for current to flow.
Actually... the manual states the voltage can range from 14.2 - 15.2 V
 

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Hey, i had the same issue as you with the gauge turning off while riding but coming on again when i reduced rpms. It was time for my stator to die.
You checked right at the battery, manual has some tests to do directly to the stator to see if it gives 54V to the r/r. Just unplug the stator from the r/r, run the bike and test with a multimeter.
 
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