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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello all,

So I am having a charging issue with my 09 ZX6R, I know this is a common problem but would like some input on what I found when diagnosing the bike.

Issue: I was out riding the bike and made a stop for fuel when the bike wouldn't turn over, just the starter relay clicking like the battery was dead. I was able to push start the bike and get to Oriellys where it sputtered out on me and died so I coasted into parking lot. During that ride the cluster would go in and out. I take battery inside and they say its bad so I got a new one and off I went for a good while until once again bike wouldn't turn over, just clicking. So at this point I decided its definitely a charging issue or grounding issue. I un-plugged headlights and push started bike making it home while it sputtered out with cluster going in and out.

Today I check all grounds and terminal connections and everything was tight and clean, I checked voltage at battery while running and sure enough getting about 11v to battery. So I pulled up service manual and started diagnosing.

Diagnosis: Firstly, I checked out the R/R as that seems to be an issue with these bikes. I was doing a diode test with my fluke meter and everything read OL or 0.450v like it was suppose to and nothing read backwards. EXCEPT for W3-Ground, it is suppose to read OL but I get 0v and my meter buzzes at me. It reads 0v going pos-neg and neg-pos, nothing else read backwards like this except for the OL's. Is this an issue inside the rectifier or is the 0v okay to get if its suppose to be an OL?

Secondly, I checked output voltage on stator plug. Manual says 54v AC or more above 4k rpms, I am getting 4-5v AC on all 3 legs no matter where pos and neg are. Then I did a resistance check on the lines and all read 0.3ohms. Manual says you should get 0.11 - 0.17. Now my wire leads have 0.2ohm resistance, so it seems I am getting about 0.1ish ohms on meter, so resistance check seems good. Here's the thing, the manual says if you get good resistance but bad voltage, then the rotor needs to be replaced do to magnets being weak. The bike only has 8k miles on it btw.

Lastly, I pull stator cover to find 3 of the coils completely black with a burnt smell, so i assume they are burnt out or something. The stator cover was pretty hard to pull off due to magnets, so not very weak, took a little fighting. The rotor looks un-damaged to me, no scratching/scoring or anything being ate up, magnets look good to the eye and bike has not been dropped recently.

So here are my questions, do I need to replace R/R due to getting 0v instead of OL on W3-Ground?

Do I need to really replace rotor due to seemingly getting good resistance check but bad voltage?

Should I be good to go with just a new stator?

Bike has had the R/R recall done to it.

What replacement parts/brands do you guys recommend using on R/R & Stator? I am finding lots of different ones at different prices.

Thank you for any input!!
 

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The stator is roasted and needs replacing. Check your VIN with a dealership and see if the service bulletin was done on your bike. The R/R was known to cause failures of the stator. You may get both stator and R/R replaced for free.

I have been through this twice. I no longer use the OEM R/R shunt design. My third R/R is a FET design, which reduces the load on the stator instead of simply using a relay to dump excess power into a load resistor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The stator is roasted and needs replacing. Check your VIN with a dealership and see if the service bulletin was done on your bike. The R/R was known to cause failures of the stator. You may get both stator and R/R replaced for free.

I have been through this twice. I no longer use the OEM R/R shunt design. My third R/R is a FET design, which reduces the load on the stator instead of simply using a relay to dump excess power into a load resistor.
The recall has been done already sadly, at least that's what the dealer told me when I called after I bought it. You think I could get away with just the stator? The line reading 0v instead of OL on the R/R has me worried.
 

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Good job on the diagnostics.

Having tackled a similar charging problem in exactly the wrong way I would say the R/R is probably OK. Know they can have failures but obviously you have found the source of the problem. I'm not as familiar with the pre 2013 bikes but if it had the recall done I would think the regulator would be OK. If it was me and I was spending the money and time and effort to replace the stator I would probably just replace the R/R.

When replacing the stator the bolts holding it in are put in with the the "permanent" lock tight. Not impossible to loosen but tougher than normal. On my FZ6 Didn't use any heat. Use a good 6 point socket and hold it carefully as it's easy to slip. Like most stuff it's easier the 2nd or 3rd time :)
 

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The recall has been done already sadly, at least that's what the dealer told me when I called after I bought it. You think I could get away with just the stator? The line reading 0v instead of OL on the R/R has me worried.
I'd replace both, and would go to the FET design rather than the shunt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Good job on the diagnostics.

Having tackled a similar charging problem in exactly the wrong way I would say the R/R is probably OK. Know they can have failures but obviously you have found the source of the problem. I'm not as familiar with the pre 2013 bikes but if it had the recall done I would think the regulator would be OK. If it was me and I was spending the money and time and effort to replace the stator I would probably just replace the R/R.

When replacing the stator the bolts holding it in are put in with the the "permanent" lock tight. Not impossible to loosen but tougher than normal. On my FZ6 Didn't use any heat. Use a good 6 point socket and hold it carefully as it's easy to slip. Like most stuff it's easier the 2nd or 3rd time :)
What stator and R/R did you go with? Where did you purchase?
 

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What is this FET vs Shunt design you are referring to? Where can I purchase? What are the pro/cons/benefits?
The regulator portion of the R/R limits the maximum Voltage the electrical system will have applied to 14.3 VDC.

The shunt version (OEM) uses a relay to switch the alternator output into a resistor inside the body of the R/R. The alternator is composed of the rotor and stator. This design means that the alternator is always running at maximum output because there has to be greater Voltage on the battery input than it’s resting Voltage to recharge it.

The FET design pinches off the flow of current from the alternator, instead. No relay, no resistor. Sort of like closing the tap rather than spraying the excess out the window. That reduces the work done by the alternator, so it doesn’t get as hot.

Heat kills the stator because that melts the very thin insulation on the copper wire of the windings. Once a short occurs, that particular winding has to flow more current to carry its portion of the load. Which melts more insulation….. a cascade begins, and continues until the stator eventually fails.
 

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I found this post here: Need to make sense of Regulator/Rectifier test results

He states the same thing about w3-ground reading 0v. Also states his brand new one reads the same way, so I bet mines fine.
It's of course your bet to make.

The chart from the manual is meant to be measured in kilo Ohms, which (as I expect you know) is a resistance reading rather than a Voltage.

Reading that table, W1, W2, and W3 should all read as a short on the kiloOhms Resistance range, with the Red lead on W1,2, or3, and the black lead on G. What is also stated is that a cheap meter may not be able to provide enough juice to make a good reading.
 
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