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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so my bike was running fine......just did brakes(irrelevant) so I went for a ride....about 20 miles later......she starts sputtering..once I get to about 3krpm it sputters but until then it sounds good...runs good, took seat off and looked around.....went to start it and everything turned on but start button didn't do anything so I driftstarted it...while riding....lights were very dim.. another attempt to start and now it's not priming and servo just clicks......soooo...battery?.....fuel pump?...servo?.....any advice or suggestions would be much appreciated........
 

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What is the state of charge of the battery?
fully charge it, load test it
then test the charging system

depending on results will dictate next move.......
 
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Yup, careful checking of charging system is always faster and cheaper. How do I know - experience at doing it the wrong way! Battery may look bad but can be a regulator or stator fault. Regulators do fail and some years are worse than others. And then there is the stator which may be marginal or have one coil not working well so bike may seem to be ok but at low RPMs doesn't work so well. Not hard to troubleshoot but a lot harder to push a dead bike up a steep hill to get home after fixing the wrong thing - I know!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I got a new battery and everything was good......and then back to sputtering
.....now won't start without jump or push start.......my legs are getting tired.......so rectifier or regulator???? How can I find out .......
 

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Read the freaking manual (rtfm). The directions are very clear. You need a multimeter and how to operate it.



Alternator produces 3 phase AC , which is converted into DC by the rectifier, and held between 12-14 volts dc by the regulator.
 

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I got a new battery and everything was good......and then back to sputtering
.....now won't start without jump or push start.......my legs are getting tired.......so rectifier or regulator???? How can I find out .......
Take it to a qualified mechanic, clearly you are not qualified to do any of this on your own!!! It will be faster and cheaper than your guessfest
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Dude,, Your smart-ass comments are unnecessary....I'm obviously asking cause I don't know......but want to be more knowledgeable so I CAN do this kind of stuff on my own...I'm sure you can appreciate that......after reading for 2 hours I've come to the conclusion that it is the rectifier........now the hard part..... what do I use to get these bolts out....hammer/prybar?...drill them out?......smh
 

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Dude,, Your smart-ass comments are unnecessary....I'm obviously asking cause I don't know......but want to be more knowledgeable so I CAN do this kind of stuff on my own...I'm sure you can appreciate that......after reading for 2 hours I've come to the conclusion that it is the rectifier........now the hard part..... what do I use to get these bolts out....hammer/prybar?...drill them out?......smh
Which part of download the shop manual for your bike from this site is difficult to understand?

If you want to learn how to maintain your bike, go to the source. Kawasaki figured out how to build the thing, and maintain it. Including troubleshooting issues.

until you can follow logical instructions and gather accurate information it’s going to cost you more and will likely result in more damage along the way.

your choice
 

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Dude,, Your smart-ass comments are unnecessary....I'm obviously asking cause I don't know......but want to be more knowledgeable so I CAN do this kind of stuff on my own...I'm sure you can appreciate that......after reading for 2 hours I've come to the conclusion that it is the rectifier........now the hard part..... what do I use to get these bolts out....hammer/prybar?...drill them out?......smh
So you did 2 hours of reading on the internets......... but zero actually testing of your components

gee, and you wonder why I made the obviously correct statement that I did, you are clueless and just want it to be free and easy and in the end it'll cost you more with that 100% ignorance attitude you pocess!!!!!!!!!

good luck with your entire life with this attitude, you clearly will need it!
 

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Ok so my bike was running fine......just did brakes(irrelevant) so I went for a ride....about 20 miles later......she starts sputtering..once I get to about 3krpm it sputters but until then it sounds good...runs good, took seat off and looked around.....went to start it and everything turned on but start button didn't do anything so I driftstarted it...while riding....lights were very dim.. another attempt to start and now it's not priming and servo just clicks......soooo...battery?.....fuel pump?...servo?.....any advice or suggestions would be much appreciated........
Charging system bro.. could be. You'll be happy to hear that once you replace this, your bike will be brought back to a fresh new life :) .. probably will be even happier if you do the work yourself. I just replaced mine (did it myself).


There are 3 main components:
1. Stator (aka - generator/magnet coils, etc. different names for this part you may hear)
2. Regulator/Rectifier
3. Battery

they should probably all be replaced at the same time.
Judging by the posts and what's happened with your bike, sounds likely it's the charging system.
Hit me up, we can go over it.
 

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So much tension in this thread :rolleyes:

@RJ2112 and @riverszzr I know you're right about everything you said in these posts, but can you guys say it in a nicer, more welcoming way next time? lol Not so much RJ, but looking at you rivers lol I know sugar-coating is most definitely not in your vocabulary, but if you can't do that, how about just ignoring threads/comments that get your blood boiling? :) I don't like having to deal with reported posts. OP is just new, inexperienced but trying to learn.

@Clartz85 seriously though...get the service manual. In the 2 hours you've spent reading online from random sources, you could've downloaded a free copy of the service manual from this forum and read through that whole section that will tell you exactly how to check and replace (if needed) any of the charging system components. I always do all the work on all the bikes I've owned, and whenever I get a bike, one of the first things I do is I get a copy of the service manual for that bike.
 

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So much tension in this thread :rolleyes:

@RJ2112 and @riverszzr I know you're right about everything you said in these posts, but can you guys say it in a nicer, more welcoming way next time? lol Not so much RJ, but looking at you rivers lol I know sugar-coating is most definitely not in your vocabulary, but if you can't do that, how about just ignoring threads/comments that get your blood boiling? :) I don't like having to deal with reported posts. OP is just new, inexperienced but trying to learn.

@Clartz85 seriously though...get the service manual. In the 2 hours you've spent reading online from random sources, you could've downloaded a free copy of the service manual from this forum and read through that whole section that will tell you exactly how to check and replace (if needed) any of the charging system components. I always do all the work on all the bikes I've owned, and whenever I get a bike, one of the first things I do is I get a copy of the service manual for that bike.
POSTS 2, 3 & 4 already gave the OP the correct answer..... from 3 different posters

not my fault the OP doesn't want to hear or listen to the right advice and then get all butt hurt when I point out the blatantly obvious in post 7 after the OP clearly shows he can't and won't follow direction and is inept at figuring it out on his own or with help!
 

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OP, let me know when I lose you.

The most common point of failure isn’t the R/R…. The stator (the portion of the alternator that doesn’t move) is usually the part that fails first. It gets damaged by heat, and starts to short out, which makes more heat, which causes even more damage until the AC voltage it produces drops below what is required to make enough DC voltage to charge your battery and run the electrical system. The stator is cooled by splashes of engine oil. Not terribly effective, because there is no dedicated feed of cooling oil. Pretty much all done by accident.

Some terms and definitions:

Volts = pressure or a difference of potential.
Amperes = Current = Flow… which goes from one potential to the other. If the is no flow no work is done.

Work = Watts = VxA …..

If you need a certain amount of work to turn the starter, run the fuel pump, and the ignition that has to come from somewhere. It’s not meant to come from the battery; that’s most likely why your bike craps out after half an hour or so.

The battery acts like a reservoir behind a dam. There is potential energy stored in it, which is pushed in because the charging system creates a higher voltage than the natural potential of the battery. Current flows from the higher potential to the lower. The battery is only supposed to get the bike started…. The energy required to run all of the loads on the bike are designed to be supplied from the alternator.

Alternator produces 3 phase AC power. This has to be converted into single phase DC power. That happens by way of the rectifier, which is a series of one way gates which selectively picks apart the AC (alternating current) and forces it all to go in one direction (direct current). This also smears together the 3 phases for more power, kind of like a small three cylinder engine can make as much or more power than a single can. You can use a smaller, lighter 3 phase alternator to create enough AC voltage and current to equal what a heavier DC generator could provide. Lighter is critical for race bikes.

The regulator portion of the R/R acts like a blow off valve, to prevent damage to the battery or anything else in circuit. That’s all the reg does. If the source is too low, it does nothing. When the stator windings burn up, they short out because the insulation breaks down on the windings—— very similar to losing one of the cylinders.

Fuses protect the wiring from runaway current. Current causes heat when it has to pass through resistance.

Resistance is similar to blockage in a pipe. The smaller wire is the more resistance it has over distance compared to larger wire. One of the problems with older bikes is the connectors in the wiring have a tendency to oxidize due to trapped moisture, which starts the day the parts are made, and is accelerated by neglect.

When some part of the electrical system has a demand for power that causes current to flow through that part. The current has to flow through a complete circuit from high potential to low. If there is more resistance than expected in the circuit, more power flows through (up to the maximum available). Power is voltage times current, expressed as watts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks man....that was actually supposed to be a slash regulator/rectifier........not or ......but atleast my typo gave someone something to do.......
I did order new one...be here tomorrow so I should be good.
So much tension in this thread :rolleyes:

@RJ2112 and @riverszzr I know you're right about everything you said in these posts, but can you guys say it in a nicer, more welcoming way next time? lol Not so much RJ, but looking at you rivers lol I know sugar-coating is most definitely not in your vocabulary, but if you can't do that, how about just ignoring threads/comments that get your blood boiling? :) I don't like having to deal with reported posts. OP is just new, inexperienced but trying to learn.

@Clartz85 seriously though...get the service manual. In the 2 hours you've spent reading online from random sources, you could've downloaded a free copy of the service manual from this forum and read through that whole section that will tell you exactly how to check and replace (if needed) any of the charging system components. I always do all the work on all the bikes I've owned, and whenever I get a bike, one of the first things I do is I get a copy of the service manual for that bike.
Well said.......I actually do have the manual...downloaded from this site thanks to riverszzr ....he kindly sent me the link a while back.........I didn't even know how to use a meter till the other day...I've been riding si ce I was a kid but never did the work......it is very easy to mess something up so even with the manual I like to get advice from you vets......if these things aren't precise......well you know.........thanks for the advice fellas
 

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The R/R is almost certainly not the immediate problem.

It’s common for the stator to burn up and cause at least one of the three AC phases to drop in Voltage so much, that your R/R cannot covert what it gets to 12 plus Volts DC. You need 14 VDC or so, to charge the battery.

your multi meter can make all the necessary measurements to figure out what is actually broken. As it can measure resistance, current, and both DC as well as AC voltage (multiple uses!), and the manual tells you where to check, what you’re looking for, and what you should measure….

throwing parts at the problem is less than ideal.
 
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