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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
06 zx6r

After riding about 20-30 minutes depending on the temperature outside the engine just shuts off. Brand new stator and rectifier, confirmed they are working perfectly. Brand new fuel pump, confirmed its working perfectly. Confirmed no kink or debris on fuel tank vent line. Tip over and kickstand sensors deleted. After when the engine shuts off, all I have to do is pull over, let it cool down like 10 -15 minutes and Im good for another 20-30 minutes.


That being said, the only things I haven't replaced are the spark plugs and ecu. Before I drop the 1-1.5k on a replacement ecu. Is there anything else I'm missing?
 

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2005 ZX-6R Magma Red, 2021 ZX-6R Pearl Nightshade Teal
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They have a vent to essentially keep the pressure regulated, if it builds to much pressure it can cause problems, as can a lack of pressure. If it's not venting properly (building up more pressure than it's releasing) it can cause issues feeding fuel to the system amongst other issues, sitting and waiting can drop enough pressure to let it work properly again.

There should be a section in the manual that goes over the fuel system and how to check if it's all 100%.

Also worth looking for totaled or part out 06s and snipe a used ecu, could save you a few hundred
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
They have a vent to essentially keep the pressure regulated, if it builds to much pressure it can cause problems, as can a lack of pressure. If it's not venting properly (building up more pressure than it's releasing) it can cause issues feeding fuel to the system amongst other issues, sitting and waiting can drop enough pressure to let it work properly again.

There should be a section in the manual that goes over the fuel system and how to check if it's all 100%.

Also worth looking for totaled or part out 06s and snipe a used ecu, could save you a few hundred
My concern with buying an used ecu is. What if they have the same problems ya know? And I have the m all downloaded I review now and see
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
They have a vent to essentially keep the pressure regulated, if it builds to much pressure it can cause problems, as can a lack of pressure. If it's not venting properly (building up more pressure than it's releasing) it can cause issues feeding fuel to the system amongst other issues, sitting and waiting can drop enough pressure to let it work properly again.

There should be a section in the manual that goes over the fuel system and how to check if it's all 100%.

Also worth looking for totaled or part out 06s and snipe a used ecu, could save you a few hundred

From what I'm reading if I was having ventilation problems, I would hear hissing and potentially have issues opening the fuel cap. Which I do not have, I haven't read anything about not enough. But I also cant find anything in regards to testing venting also do not what I'm looking for either
 

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If your vent lines are pinched the pump will suck down fuel until the pressure drops in the tank so much it can’t get any more to the engine. If you open the gas cap when this happens, you’ll hear the whoosh of air entering the tank.

If the bike dies, immediately pop the cap open and try to start the bike. If it does start the rubber lines from the tank to the ground are blocked.

If not, you need to figure out what is missing. Most likely either spark, or fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If your vent lines are pinched the pump will suck down fuel until the pressure drops in the tank so much it can’t get any more to the engine. If you open the gas cap when this happens, you’ll hear the whoosh of air entering the tank.

If the bike dies, immediately pop the cap open and try to start the bike. If it does start the rubber lines from the tank to the ground are blocked.

If not, you need to figure out what is missing. Most likely either spark, or fuel.
Definitely not what's happening here. At this point there's nothing left to replace or troubleshoot other than the ecu and spark plugs. But being that once the bike cools down you can rip on it without ANY problems idles without any problems, I'm thinking nothing wrong with spark plugs either.
 

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One of the members has a zero mile ‘06 ECU for sale one this board. His buddy bought a brand new ‘06, and immediately converted it to track including a race ECU. The production ECU was never used…. That’s a one in a million deal at this point….
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
One of the members has a zero mile ‘06 ECU for sale one this board. His buddy bought a brand new ‘06, and immediately converted it to track including a race ECU. The production ECU was never used…. That’s a one in a million deal at this point….
I found a few new ones from vendors, issue isn't sourcing, but I am curious about getting a "race" ecu
 

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I found a few new ones from vendors, issue isn't sourcing, but I am curious about getting a "race" ecu
I’d just use the stock ecu and just flash it with a well known flashing company like woolich or flash tune as it should be comparable and more than enough for your average joe to use. Not to mention the ease of adjusting. I have that New non used ECU BTW!
 

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So far as I know, the race ECU is effectively unlocked and programmed for racing conditions, not compliance to epa, etc. I consider that to be the same as ready to flash, but you’d need the Kawasaki cable and software to do anything with the race ECU.

Now that flashing is becoming common, the ‘bling’ value of a race ECU is a moot point, imho
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok, update,
The weather is colder and the bike is lasting longer on rides. So I feel like that confirms it's definitely a part that's overheating and not a vacuum issue with the fuel tank. Confirmed once it gets hot the bike cut off, I can turn it off and it'll start right back up, but it won't stay started. It will idle a few minutes then slowly sputter its way out.
I did experience inconsistency with that today though. It would cut off i would turn the bike off and it would be good immediately for another 20 30 minutes before dieing again. Someone mentioned to confirm fuel pump voltages and connections and make sure it's not overheating or have a bad connections, their fuel pump would do exactly what im experiencing now. They replaced it and boom. But I had this problem with the stock fuel pump and the brand new one that's there now so probably not it.
I removed the power commander just to confirm it has nothing to do with that. I'm only troubleshooting again because a shop I spoke to said it didn't sound like the ecu to them. At this point I don't know what else it could possibly be.

Wish I could find another 05-06zx6r guy close to me lol
 

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In the meantime, ensure you have as much air flow as possible through the tail section. You can also insulate between the exhaust and the tail section to reduce heat transfer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
In the meantime, ensure you have as much air flow as possible through the tail section. You can also insulate between the exhaust and the tail section to reduce heat transfer.
Yeah thats what I'm going to give that a try because of the inconsistency I've had, how does one increase the air flow down there? Just drill some holes?
 

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Make sure you have as little other crap in that area. Can’t really use that space for storage at all. Some have gone so far as to relocate the ECU to get more moving air around it. Stagnant air is an insulator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Just an update, someone might have mentioned to do this and I completely ignored it, which was to make sure you put thermal insulation between the ecu and tail. And sure enough the insulation that was there, I must have torn at some point and it basically wasn't there. This issue is resolved
 

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…. There is a good chance that you have stopped future overheating issues; whatever damage may have already occurred will not heal. Not say you’re in immediate danger of having a failing ECU — if you see one that you can validate has not overheated at a good price, might be worth snatching it up.

You could also use that alternate unit to get a flash done if you’re interested.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
…. There is a good chance that you have stopped future overheating issues; whatever damage may have already occurred will not heal. Not say you’re in immediate danger of having a failing ECU — if you see one that you can validate has not overheated at a good price, might be worth snatching it up.

You could also use that alternate unit to get a flash done if you’re interested.
I will definitely look into at picking one up, thank you!
 

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Are we still 100% sure it’s the ecu?

You can check the gas venting by when you’re riding it and it dies and want start back. Open your gas cap. If opening your gas cap let’s it start back up then that tells you

On all the ecu I have seen die from heating issues they usually just go all at once. Just seems odd if it’s the ecu for it to be fine then all the sudden not. Then fine again lol
 
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