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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

I have a 2006 zx6r, it has terrible fuel millage. I get roughly 75 miles on a full tank before the fuel light comes on. I had always attributed this to the high flow air filter and exhaust and never being tuned. I decided to buy a Power Commander 5 and have it tuned, Also my fi light was on but figured this was for the exhaust flap actuator that was removed. Took it to a shop to get it tuned and looked over and they pulled code 62. They told me that the secondary butterfly valves and actuator do work (but i am guessing not properly since the light is on?) so he went ahead and tuned around this issue to bring my air/fuel ratio back to around 12-13 to 1. It was running rich before, in fact so low their meter couldn't read how low but it was under 10-1, they guessed probably in the 8 or 9's. To get to the point, the bike still goes around 75 miles before the light comes on even after the tune. I have read about removing the secondary flaps and it solving certain problems. Would this solve my problem? I just want the fuel efficiency problem fixed. Other ideas and suggestions would help!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No, the bike has different sprockets. The person I bought it from changed them. And I doubt it would be the level sensor because when I fill it with the light on it takes around 3.5 to 3.7 gallons. Plus you can smell how rich it is.
 

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Well, what size are your sprockets? If they’re way off from stock then it could be affecting your mileage.

Pull the codes yourself just to be sure that’s the only code it’s throwing. Removing the secondary butterflies will throw a code 62, but it won’t impact your gas mileage.

I’m guessing the shop BS’d u about tuning your bike. Download a new map for your power commander and update it yourself just to be sure.

If it still doesn’t fix your issue, then disconnect the power commander and have the bike run on the factory ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Not sure on the sprocket size, I think he said is was a +2 -1 or a -2 +1. He had it set to have higher torque at the low end. It does make sense to change them back out to stock.

The thing that gets me though is that is still smells very rich and I know that cannot be because of the sprockets. I thought maybe a bad injector?
 

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-1+2 is pretty common. I’m guessing that’s the one....but yeah, that shouldn’t affect your gas mileage that drastically.

Try the stuff with the power commander I was talkin about.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok, I will try those things.

1. Is there a way to check if they did flash it?

2. Is it worth changing the gearing back to stock?
 

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Ok, I will try those things.

1. Is there a way to check if they did flash it?

2. Is it worth changing the gearing back to stock?
Not sure about checking if they flashed it. I’m sure some of the other guys on here will know the answer to that.

U can change the gearing back to stock. You’ll lose a bit of torque but gain some top speed. It’s all personal preference really. I keep mine stock because I do a lot of highway riding, so it keeps the RPM’s low.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So I am finally posting an update. I decided to go straight to replacing the whole throttle body assembly because you can find used one pretty cheap online. I have tried two different ones from salvage cycles places and a new problem has arrived. The fi light is still on but now its showing code 63 for the exhaust valve. But I start it and it seems to run and idle fine for about 30 seconds and then the RPMs start do drop slowly to the point where it barley idles then dies after another 30 seconds. Is this just something that needs to be adjusted with the vacuum lines or even tuning? I kept the same injectors that I originally had on the bike and re sealed them but doubt that is the problem?

Thanks for all the help.
 

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So I am finally posting an update. I decided to go straight to replacing the whole throttle body assembly because you can find used one pretty cheap online. I have tried two different ones from salvage cycles places and a new problem has arrived. The fi light is still on but now its showing code 63 for the exhaust valve. But I start it and it seems to run and idle fine for about 30 seconds and then the RPMs start do drop slowly to the point where it barley idles then dies after another 30 seconds. Is this just something that needs to be adjusted with the vacuum lines or even tuning? I kept the same injectors that I originally had on the bike and re sealed them but doubt that is the problem?

Thanks for all the help.
Did you make sure your idle adjuster on the new throttle bodies is set properly? Should be set so that your bike idles at about 1200-1300 rpm after its warmed up (after the rpms drop down during startup)
 
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