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13 Posts
I can only get it to do this when I'm going flatout, reving it out at half throttle doesn't reproduce the problem
2005 ZX6R Hesitation under WOT
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3 Posts
Could it be a problem with an ignition coil? I had a Versys 650 with a bad coil that would do weird stuff like this... hesitating randomly at high load and WOT. It never threw a code, I only figured out the problem when I saw the coil was corroded and had cracking rubber. Shouldn't be too hard to test your coils with a multimeter.
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13 Posts
This sounds a lot easier and cheaper than cracking the case, I'll probably check this out first
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3 Posts
I listened to your video more carefully. It does sound like it's the transmission/clutch slipping. It sounds like your revs jump up for a split second. My old bike with the bad coil, you could tell the engine was skipping and the RPMs would increase slowly or not at all for a couple seconds.
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8,566 Posts
but he can't fix the problem withotu splitting the cases!
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8,566 Posts
Like many, he just wants to hear it is cheap and simple to fix and is searching for anyone who will give him the answer he wants instead of the answer that is the truth
It is the transmission!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Everything else is just idiots speculating stupidity
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13 Posts
Well yeah... if anyone can avoid 15 hours of work or $1500 in labor I think they would
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14,016 Posts
^^FWIW, RiversZZR has been building race bikes and running his own shop for roughly 40 years. Sole source of income, running a shop.
He's forgotten more than most will ever learn when it comes to motorcycles in general, and japanese bikes 1980-present in particular. He's free with his advice; I've never found him to be wrong, and he is more than willing to help.
Not tolerant of willful ignorance.
Economics aside, if Lloyd says it's the transmission --- you can take that to the bank. The term 'penny wise, and pound foolish' is an old English phrase for the position you are in. Everything you spend before you ultimately split the cases and do the things Lloyd's already said will be wasted -- to a very high degree of certainty.
If you want to run that bike into the ground and have it destroy itself -- that's one level of risk. The fundamental issue with a faulty transmission is the good chance that it will lock the rear wheel in when it fails. So far, you are fortunate that the symptoms you have indicate that it's either a broken tooth on a gear set (2nd?), or less likely IMHO a bad dog on the adjoining gear set.
When you think about how much force is applied to the individual tooth of the gear in the transmission -- particularly when you are at max output, you are putting over 100 HP on a tooth that is maybe 1.5" wide, and likely some 10's of mm deep. The 'blip' you experience is the engaged teeth missing due to that failed pair. It only gets worse as the engine screams up a little higher, and the NEXT tooth gets whacked that much harder when they engage again.
When (not if) a big enough part of the gear breaks off, it will be flung about inside the transmission case. If you're lucky, gravity pulls it to the bottom before it lands on another gear set and gets jammed between the gears.
All the gear sets run on a common pair of shafts..... anything that can lock one pair of gears locks them all.
He's forgotten more than most will ever learn when it comes to motorcycles in general, and japanese bikes 1980-present in particular. He's free with his advice; I've never found him to be wrong, and he is more than willing to help.
Not tolerant of willful ignorance.
Economics aside, if Lloyd says it's the transmission --- you can take that to the bank. The term 'penny wise, and pound foolish' is an old English phrase for the position you are in. Everything you spend before you ultimately split the cases and do the things Lloyd's already said will be wasted -- to a very high degree of certainty.
If you want to run that bike into the ground and have it destroy itself -- that's one level of risk. The fundamental issue with a faulty transmission is the good chance that it will lock the rear wheel in when it fails. So far, you are fortunate that the symptoms you have indicate that it's either a broken tooth on a gear set (2nd?), or less likely IMHO a bad dog on the adjoining gear set.
When you think about how much force is applied to the individual tooth of the gear in the transmission -- particularly when you are at max output, you are putting over 100 HP on a tooth that is maybe 1.5" wide, and likely some 10's of mm deep. The 'blip' you experience is the engaged teeth missing due to that failed pair. It only gets worse as the engine screams up a little higher, and the NEXT tooth gets whacked that much harder when they engage again.
When (not if) a big enough part of the gear breaks off, it will be flung about inside the transmission case. If you're lucky, gravity pulls it to the bottom before it lands on another gear set and gets jammed between the gears.
All the gear sets run on a common pair of shafts..... anything that can lock one pair of gears locks them all.
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8,566 Posts
becasue you can waste all the time you want and in the end that 15+ hours and however much it costs is still going to need to be spent. Only later you will have wasted monies on shit that don't fix the issue and quite possibly have cost yourself even more monies by doing more dmaage continuing to ride it
but it is your bike and you wallet- be as stubborn and stupid as you desire, but don't ask for advice if you refuse to actually take it........... Then you are wasting my time and that shit pisses me off and gets you blackballed!
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13 Posts
The decision wasn’t unanimous until late in the thread, I’m all about exploring the quick cheap options before buying a new motor
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8,566 Posts
lol....
You do not need (and will never find) a NEW engine......... you simply need to fix what is wrong inside yours!
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13 Posts
I want to be riding asap when it warms up and an engine swap takes a night whereas I imagine I’ll be waiting for several weeks/months to get parts in and gears machined if I do a rebuild
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8,566 Posts
Still not going to find a new engine
you can find a new to you, used engine that may very well have the same problems or more problems than your current engine and hope it doesn't for your hard earned monies you spend and all the time you are going to spend making the swap.....
and your weeks or months is a gross exaggeration and, no machining involved! some snap ring pliers is all you need once the transmission is on the bench unless you are going for precision which clearly you are not.........
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