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So as the title states, I'm going to show you how to change your fork oil in a 2005 zx6r, with some tips from Dave Moss' Video. Now this will work on the 05 and 06, but I'm guessing it will be the same for other years if they have the same type of forks.

Things you will need:
Triple tree stand, or some way to have the front end off the ground that isn't touching the tires or forks.

6mm Hex Socket along with Rachet

Adjustable wrench big enough to fit on the fork top plug

Something to drain the old fork oil out into that reads in mL

NEW fork oil (Manual recommends 5 weight)


So to start off, put the bike on the triple tree stand and remove the front tire. If you don't know how to do this, then I don't know if you should continue. lol

After removing the front tire go head and remove the front fender, along with both ram air covers.

In the first picture it shows you what to loosen.
1. Loosen the lower fork clamp bolts.
2. Loosen the handlebar bolt.
3. Go head and break loose the fork top plug.
4. Finally loosen the upper fork clamp bolt.

Make sure if there are any zip ties around wires holding onto the forks that you cut them.

Now push down on the top of the forks to get it started to remove, then start pulling from the bottom and twisting until you get it removed.

Now for the second picture.
Now that you have the fork tube out, push down on it and remember how it feels. It's important, but we'll get to that later.

Third Picture
Go head and loosen the fork top plug all the way.

Fourth Picture
Drain the fork oil into you container that has mL.

Fifth Picture
When the fork oil slows down, take the fork and have the sleeve all the way down and push down on the fork top plug so you can get the oil out of the cylinder. Do this a couple times and drain, and repeat. Now remember back in picture 2, when I said to press down on the forks and remember how it feels? This is where it comes into play. You should press down on the fork top plug until it feels like theirs no hydraulic resistance, just the spring coming back. When it is just dripping, then you have got 99.99% of the oil out.

So I've already shared with you some of Dave's tips, but here is the most important one. Look at how much fork oil you removed, this is how much you will be adding back.
Clean out your container with the old oil extremely well, add the new oil to it, and then add it to the forks, be sure to keep and eye on it so it doesn't go everywhere.

Now slide the fork tube sleeve back up to the top, add some grease to the fork top plug so its easier to remove next time, turn the fork top plug to the left until you hear it click into place and then tighten it back up.

Now put the fork on the ground and pump it until the oil gets in the cylinder and it feels normal again....

Now (fuck I say that alot) most people think your done, not if Dave has anything to say about it! He suggest that you polish the chrome on the fork tube itself. I didn't have any sandpaper to do this. If you want to, just do a quick search of what grade sandpaper you need. Also pull the dust seal down and add some grease around where the fork seal is. Push down easily about 2 inches a couple times and then push down far and hard once. Dave suggest that you do this at least every 1000 miles. Wipe off any excess grease. Put a little grease on the dust seal and pop it back in place.

Well your done now. Just reinsert the fork tubes into place and tighten everything back up. Make sure the fork tube is 6.5mm above the top triple tree. Lower tree bolts should be at 18ft lbs. Front fork top plug should be at 26ft lbs. Handlebar Bolt 18ft lbs. Top Tree bolt should be 15ft lbs.

This is my first write up. Hope I didn't miss anything...
 

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Nice work.
Let me add this, pour in fresh oil & pump the forks & drain, do this until the oil comes out clean.
Now put your measured fork oil in & reassemble.
 
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????????

To drain/refill the damping rod and to actually measure fluid height correctly in each fork leg you need to pull the spring off the damper rod.

This (what you display) may be an acceptable method for the lazy who do half assed work but this is not the proper way to actually change your fork fluid.

It is akin to taking a shit without wiping you ass or changing the engine oil but leaving on the old filter, no matter how you slice it, it is not the correct procedure.
 

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If i'm not mistake there really should be a measurement for how much fork oil goes into the
fork's not just what comes out of it....
 

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????????

To drain/refill the damping rod and to actually measure fluid height in each fork leg you need to pull the spring off. This may be an acceptable method for the lazy who do half assed work but this is not they proper way to actually change your fork fluid.

It is akin to taking a shit without wiping you ass or changing the engine oil but leaving on the old filter, no matter how you slice it, it is not the correct procedure.
hahaha I thought something similar, But I could not be so mean as to type it.

The man did make an honest effort to help those not so mechanically inclined.
Not a bad write-up for starters.
But your spot on, I would never measure my fluid like this.
And a complete disassembly (if you have the tools) is the proper way.
 

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hahaha I thought something similar, But I could not be so mean as to type it.

The man did make an honest effort to help those not so mechanically inclined.
Not a bad write-up for starters.
But your spot on, I would never measure my fluid like this.
And a complete disassembly (if you have the tools) is the proper way.
Not mean, just being factually accurate when giving information or advice is a must. otherwise you are doing everyone a disservice
 
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Hey, I just did it the way Dave Moss did. Don't hate me, hate him. lol
Link...

I've NEVER met a suspension tuner that measures by volume instead of height. It's probably ok on a Hardley or something of the sorts that doesn't care about performance, but the air gap affects the suspension. Also, I'd of changed the fork seals at the same time on 9 y/o forks with 30k+ miles. Cheap insurance that you don't have to do this again anytime soon.

Grab the Racetech suspension bible. It shows step by step how to service forks and shocks. It even shows how to change the shim stack if you are so inclined.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Link...

I've NEVER met a suspension tuner that measures by volume instead of height. It's probably ok on a Hardley or something of the sorts that doesn't care about performance, but the air gap affects the suspension. Also, I'd of changed the fork seals at the same time on 9 y/o forks with 30k+ miles. Cheap insurance that you don't have to do this again anytime soon.

Grab the Racetech suspension bible. It shows step by step how to service forks and shocks. It even shows how to change the shim stack if you are so inclined.
It's his video you have to buy, and I did everything how he did. I've got no leak out of my seals. This really wasn't that hard and I wouldn't mind doing it again. Which I will be, it won't take me long to ride 5k miles.
 

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Topic: Upside Down Fork Rebuild 2.0 (1/1) - KZr Forum - KZrider.com

Servicing forks under 5k miles for a street ride is a little overkill IMO. However, For a track/race bike, I know folks that service them every 4 days and such...

There is also the shock that should be serviced.
I agree changing the fork oil every 5000 miles for street riding is excessive, unless;
you take 2 years or more to do that amount of mileage
you ride in dirty dusty conditions
you ride in extreme heat or extreme cold often
you don't routinely keep the bug guts and brake dust and rain wash crap off the fork tube
your suspension isn't set up anywhere near close and you constantly are abusing it
You are a fatty and need to go on a diet

Personally I change mine once a year (about 20k) but have done it more often especially when I have ran numerous trackdays, then twice a year is more my norm.

But definately something that should be done no less than every other year. IMO

72,000 miles on the old girl and still oe original seals, but looking at the records I have changed fork oil 5 times, once just 4,600 miles ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I agree changing the fork oil every 5000 miles for street riding is excessive, unless;
you take 2 years or more to do that amount of mileage
you ride in dirty dusty conditions
you ride in extreme heat or extreme cold often
you don't routinely keep the bug guts and brake dust and rain wash crap off the fork tube
your suspension isn't set up anywhere near close and you constantly are abusing it
You are a fatty and need to go on a diet

Personally I change mine once a year (about 20k) but have done it more often especially when I have ran numerous trackdays, then twice a year is more my norm.

But definately something that should be done no less than every other year. IMO

72,000 miles on the old girl and still oe original seals, but looking at the records I have changed fork oil 5 times, once just 4,600 miles ago.

thanks, to add to my argument. I am also a fatty.
 

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Link...



I've NEVER met a suspension tuner that measures by volume instead of height. It's probably ok on a Hardley or something of the sorts that doesn't care about performance, but the air gap affects the suspension. Also, I'd of changed the fork seals at the same time on 9 y/o forks with 30k+ miles. Cheap insurance that you don't have to do this again anytime soon.



Grab the Racetech suspension bible. It shows step by step how to service forks and shocks. It even shows how to change the shim stack if you are so inclined.

Is there a link to that suspension bible? Lol :) I mean, I'm assuming that it's a PDF or something...
 
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