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2002 AP1 636
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wanted to do a bit of a build thread. Mostly for me to read back in X years in the future to remind myself all about it.

So starting at the start I bought the bike last winter for a grand and rode it through the winter to keep miles off my 1190R which I chopped in for a 790R as a 30th birthday present to myself. So the ninja became the 'daily' but as always happens the daily got under my skin and couldn't help thinking "This could actually be a great little track bike."

So then I bought a scooter as a daily for my daily because although I actually really enjoyed riding a sports bike to work (never owned one before) I was starting to feel guilty because she clearly needed some serious love. 20 years old, 20k miles. Not totally neglected but not exactly cared for.

Thought I would just get some new tyres. Paint the wheels whilst they were off. Maybe get some braided lines, new LED indicators and brake lights. 20k miles so she must be due for the valve shims? But number 1 thought "Keep her as a road bike". Well, that didn't last too long because after taking the fairing off and the airbox etc. there was just about enough room to do the valve shims, "It be just so much easier to do this job with the engine out." So out comes the engine. "Ahh man the paint on the frame isn't in very good shape and the swingarm isn't any better. I'll paint them" Well the valves were done over a weekend after finally getting hold of them. They are the tiny under-bucket ones no bigger than your fingernail and I only have KTMs with 8.85s or 10mm shims. and my local dealer had none. ANYWAY!

Valves shimed. I only had 5 out of spec, no history on the bike but speaking to others I wouldn't be surprised if I was first to do this job on her and to have valves still in spec is pretty amazing!
Frame cleaned, the amount of chain crap and dirt everywhere! Polished what I could and then lacquered
Swingarm polished and lacquered. This came up pretty nice to be honest.
Subframe painted. Just plain black, I wanted the swingarm to be more noticeable.

Now I had a shed full of parts, which really annoys me because I hate losing things and was paranoid I'd forget where stuff was or goes. So I took a few Monday/ Fridays off work to extend my weekends and make some progress because I'm usually working weekends teaching CBT which can be a pain but makes me feel good about getting these kids up to speed and hopefully safer for me passing on as much as I can to them.

Headset bearing - Done. the old one wasn't bad and the last owner did say it was done not long before he was selling it, which I'll admit I didn't believe because its a pretty big job to get to and the rest of the bike wasn't.. great haha
Painted the triple claps and top yoke. Again just plain gloss black because I wanted accents of green to stand out.
Cleaned up and lacquered all of the bolts I was reusing OR If I had one, I'd replace it with stainless but they aren't cheap and everything takes time to arrive.
Wheels painted, again, just plain black. If I had the money I'd get some lightweight wheels because these old 3 spokes weigh about 4 tonnes each.

I don't always remember to take pictures so I will post up what I have below rather than having a picture every paragraph, which would take ages to organise.

Wiring loom back in. I haven't taken anything off it (yet) because I was planning on putting road fairings back on as I said before just with nice LEDs and better headlight bulbs.
Engine back in. This took a little while because I couldn't do it on my own. Not worth the risk of dropping anything.
Whilst I had the engine out I did paint a few parts too. I wanted to get them blasted and cerakoted but there's only one guy on island and he didn't have time/ space. And for him to rush it through he wanted big monies. Fair enough but it isn't necessary just would have been nice.

Nice polished swingarm back on. I had to bring up the parts diagram for this because there are spacers etc. each side.


Now I could start with some actual rebuilding!


The forks were in really bad shape. The stansions definitely couldn't be used they were badly pitted. eBay had a couple of options but it's the shipping that costs because I'm in Jersey and some people seemingly just don't want to ship bigger stuff over.

Stansions were eventually delivered so I used the new ones to rebuild the forks and they had a good clean inside and inspected the springs etc. Could do with some better internals but I don't know were to go atm, perhaps K-tech?

The shock has been rebuilt, not by me because I can't split them. There is a guy who is big into enduro down the harbour who does all the marine and hydraulic stuff and he has the kit in his workshop. so spring off, touch of paint. all cleaned, fresh oil and re-gassed.

NEXT

The brakes! So I did not and still do not really like these brakes. I don't yet know where the weakest point is but to start with I'll run standard parts and take it step by step. Christmas is coming up and I can't go too mad just yet. And the new EBC disks were £300 :censored:

So start with the rear because then I can get the nice new gold chain on 😁

Took the caliper apart, wire wheeled it and lacquered it. Personally, I think it looks the business. Especially with a touch of green next to it for the bracket. Rebuild kit for the caliper and master cylinder came down. So did that one evening at my desk which is a really nice little job. Man it was starting to show its age here! The insides were.. not great and the colour of the 'new fluid' was either :coffee: or 🐮💩 brown haha!
All back together, cleaned up the piston, to be honest it was in pretty good condition, it is quite well protected from road crap and abuse were it sits.

Master cylinder rebuilt at the same time. I've only got cheapy Silverline circlip pliars but they are good enough for bikes and you need some for certain jobs, this being one. or if you know KTM they use hydraulic operated clutches even for the MX bikes. Not my 790 though, they've gone to a cable, which is easier to replace in the field but doesn't have as nice a throw. Little Camel extended arm soon sorted that though.

Wire wheeled and lacquered the footpeg bracket. Fit a new metal footpeg.. bar? thing

New return spring (which was hard to get hold of!) for the pedal.

Nice new braided brake lines all round, new stainless banjo bolts and bleeders. (Not bloody cheap either, make sure you get the right thread pitch too!)

So next up was the chain, I've got standard gearing with have a few rear sprockets in my basket because I doubt I'll be getting to the top of 6th at Le Mans. I'd go down one on the front but I am yet to find one?

Chain attached. NOW she's really coming together! Starting to look like a bike again. Tighten the front sprocket.

So as of Thursday 10th November 2022 that's pretty much were I am up to. Got one of the front calipers rebuilt last night and with the nice new stainless bolts and bleeder personally I think it looks brilliant. There's no ABS on these bikes so that makes it simpler to go from the master cylinder and use a double banjo to go straight to each caliper for the best feel & no cross-over crap.

So tonight, I'll get myself a takeaway and have another night in the shed getting the other caliper done and if I can remember were I've put the mounting bolts I'll get them on and bled through. I'd love a Brembo master cylinder but they are £250 easy so we will have to see what my overtime hours this year add up to..

No fairings at the minute but I did find some track ones on eBay a few weeks back that weren't in bad shape so I bought them. Now I really have to decide. Do I just go full track bike and attach what I need and remove wiring I don't or keep the wiring (just in case) and clean up these track fairings? I could always clean up the road fairings, they are always worth a few quid if in good shape.

Not made my mind up on colour yet either.. it could look really cheap with the wrong shade of green but plain black is.. a bit boring. I have the GP bike as inspiration but I'll never be able to get such a good finish so that's why I'm worried about it coming out looking a bit cheap. And yes I realise it is cheap haha but after spending so many hours getting her mechanically up to scratch I don't want a shite finish to spoil it.

Oh and tyres. I'm thinking Michelin GP somethings, I like Michelin tyres, use them on everything the 790R the 250, the scooter, the van. I actually bought a pilot road 4/5 for the 636 before I decided to go a bit mental and take her apart to the degree I have done. So I could get a few days use out of it and then put the GP rear on, I'd guess you'd get 2 rears from a front typically?

Let me know what you guys think.

Cheers,
Winston








Juice Electric blue Auto part Pattern Fashion accessory
Blue Automotive tire Gas Electric blue Auto part
Textile Red Paint Sleeve T-shirt
Purple Rectangle Magenta Font Electric blue
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Locking hubs Vehicle brake
Tire Bicycle tire Bicycle frame Automotive tire Bicycle fork
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Blue Sleeve Gas Electric blue Font

Well that’s both callipers rebuilt.
All nice and clean inside. Good clean in the seal wells. New seals all round. Pistons cleaned up lovely.
New stainless caliper bolts.
New mounting bolts too
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Synthetic rubber


new radiator all mounted. Looking good.. Still need a new fan.
Just waiting on a brake fluid bottle and then I’ll bleed them and that’s another box ticked ✅
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Hi all,

I have a question. Or perhaps a request actually. Does anyone know how the throttle cables are routed? I've sent them through the frame in the small hole on the left but they don't 'feel' right. They are not too tight or binding but I can't help thinking they are just not sitting right. Do they go under between the fuel tank and the frame?

Currently, they follow the blue line and go through the highlighted blue hole.

But perhaps they follow the red line on top of the frame?

Any help/ guidance is appreciated!
Fuel tank Automotive tire Motor vehicle Motorcycle Automotive lighting
 

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If my ‘09 were similar, I would expect the throttle cables to route ‘above’ the frame rather than through it.
They route through that hole.

The tank has sharp corners that get close to the frame - easy to chaff the cable and routing above will kink the cable is it bends underneath the airbox to attach to the carb on the throttle side.

edit: just realized this is the 1998-2002 version. Not 100% sure the routing is the same, but with how similar the bike is the 1995-1997 version, I still believe it routes through the hole. Double check the service manual.
 

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BTW;

Your ride height in the front will be way high unless you want it that way. The OE clip-ons attach ABOVE the yoke, giving 3/4-1in of fork stick-out from the top of the yoke normally. May affect your stability unless you don't care.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
They route through that hole.

The tank has sharp corners

Double check the service manual.
Thanks for your replies guys!
Yeah the tank is a sort of .. pie crust crimp on the under side and it is kind of sharp feeling. Not actually cut you sharp but I get what you mean so that’s why I thought “hmm don’t like the idea of these throttle cables getting pinched” and went through the little hole thinking “well something needs to go through here”

regarding the clip-ons. Yeah they OE but they feel crazy low to me. I’m used to MX and adventure bikes so I feel as though I’m basically laid flat on the tank haha

they’ve a little cut out and ‘pin’ and kind of lock into place so you can’t swing them forward or back. So I thought they were in the right place.. so they go on top of the yoke..? Like a set of handlebars would attach to a bar mount above the yoke..? So it’ll be more upright than I’ve got it now?
If so that’s cool

again, appreciate your reply man! I was actually reading your build thread this afternoon. You’ve done some awesome work to yours!
 

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I literally lost hundreds of my photos from that thread, which is a big bummer. My thread probably has a lot of the same stuff you're doing in it.

The clip-ons you have installed (the green anodized ones) look like an aftermarket item that raise the bars to OEM level. If you have the original clip-ons, they mount to the TOP of the yoke, and maintain a fixed position via the screw you're referring to.

If you decide to put the clip-ons on top or put the originals on, you'll have to support the frame via an engine stand or strap it to rafters or something so you can adjust it from there (I made that mistake once and let my entire bike drop 6 inches... these bikes are pretty tough to lift by yourself).
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The clip-ons you have installed (the green anodized ones) look like an aftermarket item

If you decide to put the clip-ons on top or put the originals on, you'll have to support the frame via an engine stand or strap it to rafters or something so you can adjust it from there
Well thanks! haha but no they are the standard parts, I just cleaned them up and painted them with some cool metallic green paint I found on sale a few weeks back.

I have her sat on paddock stands atm. Here is where the clip-ons are at the minute. I'm pretty sure that's how they were when I took them off.

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive lighting Automotive design Hood
 

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Well thanks! haha but no they are the standard parts, I just cleaned them up and painted them with some cool metallic green paint I found on sale a few weeks back.

I have her sat on paddock stands atm. Here is where the clip-ons are at the minute. I'm pretty sure that's how they were when I took them off.

View attachment 112858
Interesting, I think I'm confusing your model with the 98-99 model. From what I can tell, that's stock then. My bad, disregard my comments.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Interesting, I think I'm confusing your model with the 98-99 model. From what I can tell, that's stock then. My bad, disregard my comments.
No worries man! I'm just enjoying sharing the process and talking it through.. some good members on this forum. Hard to find to be honest, you could go on like a facebook group etc. and not find this sort of insight or knowledge but instead find plenty of nonsense and misinformation and end up going wrong or taking steps backwards.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Nice little update for a dreary Wednesday afternoon

Font Food Ingredient Bottle Auto part


£13 for a single copper gasket! :rolleyes: (for between the end can and the header pipe) the header gaskets were £8 each too plus new studs but they were only cheap.

Little bits like this you don't always consider..

I remember throwing the old radiator away because it was FUCKED! like the guy I bought it off straight up told me he used a power washer on it and bent over half of the fins level fucked. Anyway, the radiator is mounted with those funny rubber mounts that have a metal sort of collar through them.. Could I get them? Jesus, it took weeks to get hold of some!

Moral of the story.. Do not be too keen to throw old shit away! Lesson learnt, check for ancillary bits and parts first because these bikes are pretty old and shit is hard to find!
 
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