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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
I’d imagine if a bike came in my shop for anything and I had to hold the throttle to get it to start I’d address it.

once it’s started and warmed up what is your idle set at? Normal running without the enrichment turned on.
Yeah that’s exactly what I thought man but not a single thing was mentioned, but the guy I was speaking to seemed like he had a lot of knowledge when it comes to ninjas in general. Im not to sure I’ll go and check but I’m assuming it’s lower than what it’s suppose to be
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
There should be a lever on one of control pods, that enriches the mix manually when the engine is cold. If that is stuck 'on' then your bike will always run rich even after it warms up. If it's clogged up, it will be hard to start when cold, even if you try and use the enricher.

Carbs gum up on the slow, low volume circuits, first.
Where can I locate the lever on the control pod please I’ll check it
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
I’ve just been sat watching it idle for the first time and the temp just keeps climbing, I took a look at the sight glass and the whole thing is white kinda looks like condensation, something isnt right fuck
 

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Where can I locate the lever on the control pod please I’ll check it
I spent a few minutes looking at pictures of used parts on eBay. It should be the little lever near the clutch lever, and would look like the one in this picture. (guessing, I don't have this bike, just know what they have looked line on bikes I have owned so equipped.

 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
I spent a few minutes looking at pictures of used parts on eBay. It should be the little lever near the clutch lever, and would look like the one in this picture. (guessing, I don't have this bike, just know what they have looked line on bikes I have owned so equipped.

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I can’t see no lever there but there is an oval shaped metal clip with a small bolt through it. I think there’s a black cap on the picture you’ve shown so it looks a little different on my end, doesn’t look like it can be adjusted tho
 

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Post a picture of your clip ons and dash and we will show you. So you have never turned it on before starting it cold I assume? You’re a mess brother lol.


surly to god they know how to check and change oil. Sit The bike up level wait till the bikes shut Off and sitting there for a few minutes to let all the oil drain back down and just check the level.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Post a picture of your clip ons and dash and we will show you. So you have never turned it on before starting it cold I assume? You’re a mess brother lol.


surly to god they know how to check and change oil. Sit The bike up level wait till the bikes shut Off and sitting there for a few minutes to let all the oil drain back down and just check the level.
I’ll pull the cover off and take a snap now bud. Of course I have but I’ve never actually sat there and watched the bike warm up for more than 5 -10 minutes. Soon as she is warm enough to run without the choke on I usually set off. When I’m riding it usually runs at 70-80 degrees but when I noticed her hitting 100 degs and still increasing just sat there I started to worry lol my heads been all over the place if you can’t tell I got knocked off my r6 just before Christmas and now I’m worried I’ll be stuck without a bike again so I’m trying not to fuck this one up
 

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lol I’m confused and you are very confused . “Your choke” is what we are trying to explain to you lol. Older carb setups typically use a choke. That is basically a flap “chokes” the air mixture to help it start easier. And later more commonly that lever is an “enrichment”. in LaMans terms does the same thing. Not really but it “enriches” the mixture for cold starting.

it’s like getting from point A TO B. Your just getting there differently rather it’s by choking or enriching

Either one like RJ said if it’s gummed up or cable is not releasing fully after it’s warmed up or turned off or whatever causes a rich condition and isn’t good to run like that. And if it’s on a tiny bit when it shouldn’t be will cause hard starts and other issues like high revs
 

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And your after it’s warmed up idle being 12k is high. That could be cause of several things and resulting in a hard start. A bike not correctly idling will not correctly start. Like if the choke/enricher whatever you have is fully off and the bike is warmed up and idling 900 slightly pulling or engaging that function will cause the bike to idle higher. The more you engage it the higher it idles. That’s why on fi bikes that function is tuned into it and you have two idles. A cold idle and your normal operating temp idle. Cold idle will always be a few hundred rpm higher. Or least should. That helps warm the motor up and get its juices flowing. Ideally you should engage the choke/enricher whatever. Hit the button the bike start and idle high till it’s warmed up. Temps will depend on the amount of time you spend doing that. The you release and ride. You really shouldn’t rev or mess with the throttle when it’s running choked ir enriched. Just let it idle to get to operating temps

That’s what lead RJ to suggest you may have an issue with your choke/enricher not fully engaging.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Just to clarify I know what the choke is gents I just didn’t know what you was explaining to me I thought it was something completely different. I always turn it on full during start ups, as the bike warms i gradually turn it off just like I was shown. What I was saying is the bike should start just with the choke and the electric start as you know but it doesn’t, the only way I’ve been able to get it started is by using a little throttle (while the choke is on) which I know is bad for the bike. It’s just been for a service and I asked the guy was there anything else that needs fixing/replacing and he said no everything is fine so I find it a little strange how he didn’t mention anything about it. as I mentioned earlier the bike idles the same cold as it does warm the only difference is the temp of the bike just keeps getting hotter. It appears I’ve eliminated one problem and now I have another, great lol
 

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So When it’s cold and you have the “choke” on does it idles the same rpm as when it’s warm and the “choke” is off ?

But ya. If they started it and had to use the throttle to get it started that should been something they noticed and addressed if you asked. . But that’s just assuming you ask them to check and make sure everything is fine. Could be they just figure that’s not what you brought it in for and figured you would mention if you wanted them addressed.
I’m anal about stuff like that. I point out everything to the customer so they are aware and can’t say it wasn’t like that before I worked on it. Rather they have me fix it or not is on them. But I at least mention it and let them decide what to do with that info. You would be surprised at the issues most guys ignore and just live with. I have pointed out some pretty crazy stuff and just get the. “Oh I know. It’s fine”.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
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So When it’s cold and you have the “choke” on does it idles the same rpm as when it’s warm and the “choke” is off ?

But ya. If they started it and had to use the throttle to get it started that should been something they noticed and addressed if you asked. . But that’s just assuming you ask them to check and make sure everything is fine. Could be they just figure that’s not what you brought it in for and figured you would mention if you wanted them addressed.
I’m anal about stuff like that. I point out everything to the customer so they are aware and can’t say it wasn’t like that before I worked on it. Rather they have me fix it or not is on them. But I at least mention it and let them decide what to do with that info. You would be surprised at the issues most guys ignore and just live with. I have pointed out some pretty crazy stuff and just get the. “Oh I know. It’s fine”.
Yes buddy it has the same rpms cold as it does warm, sits around the 1200 mark. When I dropped the bike at the garage I pretty much asked them to check it over and fix whatever was needed because I want it running sweet with no problems but they gave the bike back to me like this so clearly they can’t even see any issue with it, I’m definitely going to take it elsewhere in future but I was wondering will I damage the bike by using a slight bit of throttle (with the choke on) just to get it started? I mean I’ve had no choice but to do this because I need the bike for work but will I do any damage that’s what I was wondering. I plan to get it sorted in the next couple of weeks depending on how much they charge me. I’ve also been searching online and there’s a way to alter the idle with a little knob on the left hand side of the bike (I’ll attach picture) if I alter this I’m guessing it would alter the rpm’s both cold and warm would I be correct in saying that?
 

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You want cause any crazy damage. And yes that’s your idle control knob. You should be idling warmed up around 900ish. Slightly higher with the “choke” pulled. At the least warm it up and set the idle correctly. May make your cold start better or worse. You can always adjust it back up if it starts easier that way and just lowered it once it’s warmed if it bothers you. Stunt bikes we are constantly turning that idle up for stunts and slow stuff and back down for riding. So you want hurt anything by playing around with it. I have even reach down and used mine for cruise control lol (I know. Not safe)
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
No worries mate I’ll have a little fiddle with it over the next couple of days to see what works best but just by what you are telling me and what I’m seeing I think there maybe something wrong with the choke. if anything it feels like the bike needs more rpm for the start up and I’m guessing that’s where the control knob comes into play so hopefully it’ll help on the cold mornings then it’s just a matter of turning it back down when it’s reaches the operating temp. Once again I appreciate the help man I’m slowly learning from you guys
 

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Thanks for clarifying that lol I just went and tried starting the bike and it just doesn’t want to start, but with a little throttle (which I know is bad) helps the bike start up so what sort of indication does that give? When I first bought the bike I had no issues. I put in a new battery and as you know i just got it back from the garage yesterday after having almost a full service. Shouldn’t the start up be something they would of picked up on and should of mentioned?
"full service" is not........

installed some spark plugs, change the oil/filter and the air filter...........

How many miles on this new to you bike? and do you know any service history or owner abused history?
 

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I’ve just been sat watching it idle for the first time and the temp just keeps climbing, I took a look at the sight glass and the whole thing is white kinda looks like condensation, something isnt right fuck
Milky white oil needs to be changed..........

But how the moisture got in there can be a variety of ways

starting and stopping it before it gets to full operating temperature for atleast 10-15 minutes will add condensation......so how long of rides or engine runing time have you been doing?

You said you just got it back from someplace who changed the oil/filter so had you had a head gasket leak or some other leak (coolant into the oil) they would have seen the same milky oil and presumably alerted you........

but water in the oil from some source is the milky oil.maybe it is so little and just on the site glass??? sit the bike straight up and down and let it run until the fan kicks on and off a few times and then look at it!
 
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