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Thats a link to everything I have done if your interested. I had zero mechanical skills before starting this project. The only maintence I did was wash my bike, chain and lube it.

Now I am pretty confident in taking on any maintenance, upgrade, repair or trouble shooting besides electrical lol that is next level but maybe if RJ or Scummy let me face time them I might be able to get that done too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I’ve been watching videos and gathering as much information as I can online and it definitely seems like a lot to ask, not just fitting the parts but actually getting them as quick as I need them. Knowing my luck I’d probably end up making the whole situation worse so I think my best bet is to ring a few mechanics/garages and see if they can help me before I even attempt it. Still can’t believe how many people are sharing their knowledge to try and help me you guys are legends
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I’ve been ringing garages all morning and I’ve finally managed to squeeze it in on Thursday (thank fuck lol) I’ve ordered myself air and oil filter along with 4 spark plugs they should be here tomorrow or Wednesday so it’s all falling into place for me. I’ll report back to let you know how it goes but fingers crossed she’ll be sweet.Thank you all so much! my mind can finally be at rest knowing I won’t be doing anymore damage to the bike
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
The shop may ask you to keep your parts rather than use them. If so, no worries. Next time you will be set up to do the work yourself.
I understand and I’d be absolutely fine with that buddy but a lot of the garages near me usually have to order the parts in (depending what was needed) hence the reason I took matters into my own hands, but the main reason for that was if the garages were to busy like they normally are I could at least do it myself. But after two hours of phone calls someone managed to squeeze me in and he seemed quite happy that it was just the labour needed. If I had more time and wasn’t in my current situation I would let the garage advise me on what parts to get and let them order/fit them but with me needing the bike for work by Friday I had to order them asap so that leaves me more time to install them myself if that makes sense. Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Got the bike back today and it seems like I was a little worried for nothing, it definitely needed the service because the air/oil filter and spark plugs hadn’t been changed for years but there wasn’t much oil sucked up into the air box like i originally thought, the thing that surprised me the most was the price he charged me it was astronomical but the main thing is she’s back running sweet! Thank you for the help gents I really do appreciate you sharing your knowledge with me. For anyone in the same position the best bet is obviously taking it to a garage but they can also take advantage so if you have more confidence and better weather conditions I’d recommend doing it yourself as the parts aren’t cheap and the labour certainly isn’t depending on who you go to. I really hope this forum helps someone in the future because I had no luck finding information on it, and most importantly I hope you learn from my mistakes I know I certainly have. Safe riding everyone!
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
With the prices of everything rising I’m definitely gonna start doing the same thing myself as long as this horrible weather allows me to anyway lol one last thing gents, when I first had the bike it would start as soon as I pressed the electric start in but now I find myself having to give a little bit of throttle just to get her fired up. I assumed it was because of the oil situation at the time but now everything’s been sorted and the issue is still there I was just wondering what it could be? When she’s warmed up to operating temp it’s fine but on a cold morning I need to pull the throttle back a touch for her to start up I’m assuming this isn’t normal
 

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Starting any engine on a cold day takes more fuel than on a warm day.... when the oil is thick, and the engine tolerances are more open than they will be when at operating temperature it takes more fuel to get it to run well enough to get warmed up. You may need to apply the enricher on your bike.

FI bikes take care of this for you, as do FI cars. They have a specific portion of their programming that applies only when the engine temperature is below the acceptable range. That 'open loop' programming automatically increases the ratio of fuel to air to make it easier to keep the engine running. Once the temperature builds enough, the 3D mapping takes over, and all of the various things that are monitored have an effect on what amount of fuel is applied under specific conditions. That's what all of the environmental laws have driven us to. Just enough gas so it burns off as completely as possible.

My 1971 Triumph Tiger had a button on the side of the carburetor, which you had to use to 'tickle' the carb before trying to start it on a cold day. I think it just sank the float in the bowl, so you flooded the intake with gas, which increased what would be sucked in when you tried to start it. The rule of thumb was hold that button until you saw fuel leak out on top of the engine case....

A traditional 'choke' used a plate in the throat of the carbs that would change the velocity of the air going over the needle that metered the fuel.... the higher speed airflow dropped the pressure, which caused more fuel to come out. We still have those 'butterfly' plates in use to this day, for slightly different reasons.

Traditional carbs had a fairly limited range of operating conditions, all based on how fast the air moved through the throat of the carb. That made them fairly sloppy with the fuel metering at idle, and that got the EPA in a huff.

Constant Velocity carburetors came about as a result. Instead of letting the airflow randomly pull fuel out of the jet, the CV setup uses a tapered needle that is pulled out of the jet more, with more airflow. The taper determines how much fuel gets into the airflow.... the volume of air, rather than the velocity then controls the flow of fuel. The 'constant' part of their name relates to the fact that the venturi through the body of the carb is meant to always have airflow at the same speed. The size of the opening adjusts to maintain that velocity.

With CV cabs, a traditional choke doesn't work. Now, the metering has to change and that takes another metering circuit in the body of the carb to allow that increase when the engine needs more fuel during start up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
You should never have to hit the throttle on this 23 to get it to start regardless how cold it is. I’d have a different dealer look it over.
Just wondering if this is something that should of been taken care of or at least flagged up during a service? My initial thought was perhaps the carbs need cleaning but as you are probably aware i have no idea. This is only my 3rd 600 with my first being an 08 cbr 600rr, then and 05 r6 and never had any issues with any of them until I got this zxr6. The bike definitely wasn’t having these issues when I first bought it so I’m wondering if it’s something I’ve caused or if they’ve masked the issues just to sell it
 

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With the prices of everything rising I’m definitely gonna start doing the same thing myself as long as this horrible weather allows me to anyway lol one last thing gents, when I first had the bike it would start as soon as I pressed the electric start in but now I find myself having to give a little bit of throttle just to get her fired up. I assumed it was because of the oil situation at the time but now everything’s been sorted and the issue is still there I was just wondering what it could be? When she’s warmed up to operating temp it’s fine but on a cold morning I need to pull the throttle back a touch for her to start up I’m assuming this isn’t normal
you are turning on the "choke" which is actulaly an enrichening circuit........
01, you are carbureted...........

and What did the shop say the ended up doing for your service with the astronomical price.... as you put it.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
you are turning on the "choke" which is actulaly an enrichening circuit........
01, you are carbureted...........

and What did the shop say the ended up doing for your service with the astronomical price.... as you put it.....
This is my first carbureted bike and still don’t have a full understanding of how everything works hence the reason I’m asking for help, but just by your blunt answer im guessing I need to. The shop basically put on the parts that I purchased, that included air and oil filter and 4 spark plugs. They also greased my locks and that’s about it by the sounds of it. I know oil isn’t cheap and neither is the labour but I wasn’t expecting it to be expensive as it was even if I was happy to know my bike didn’t have any damage caused
 

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Oh it’s a 01. I was confusing this with another thread with the guys 23. But yea like riverz said the enrichment is all that should be needed if it’s setup properly

And fyi. For non mechanic people an enrichment knob and choke is the same thing lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Oh it’s a 01. I was confusing this with another thread with the guys 23. But yea like riverz said the enrichment is all that should be needed if it’s setup properly

And fyi. For non mechanic people an enrichment knob and choke is the same thing lol.
Thanks for clarifying that lol I just went and tried starting the bike and it just doesn’t want to start, but with a little throttle (which I know is bad) helps the bike start up so what sort of indication does that give? When I first bought the bike I had no issues. I put in a new battery and as you know i just got it back from the garage yesterday after having almost a full service. Shouldn’t the start up be something they would of picked up on and should of mentioned?
 

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I’d imagine if a bike came in my shop for anything and I had to hold the throttle to get it to start I’d address it.

once it’s started and warmed up what is your idle set at? Normal running without the enrichment turned on.
 

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There should be a lever on one of control pods, that enriches the mix manually when the engine is cold. If that is stuck 'on' then your bike will always run rich even after it warms up. If it's clogged up, it will be hard to start when cold, even if you try and use the enricher.

Carbs gum up on the slow, low volume circuits, first.
 
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