2001 zx6r issues after filling with too much oil, help please

Well top of the line isn’t a crazy amount over. You are checking with bike level right?? . Not ideal to ride it but prob want destroy it (if it’s what I’m thinking is your problem) It’s really hard for me to know how much oil it puked into the air box. It’s only a few bolts tho to Check. Pop the side cover on the tank lift the tank and remove the air box lid. Clean the oil out of the air box and throttle openings as much as you can. Hopfully the filter isn’t to drenched but dap it with a towel. Filters should have oil anyways so prob be fine to reuse the filter.
The smoke is just the oil getting sucked in with the air and mixing with the gas. So it’s not great on your plugs. Everything else I’m sure will recover. If it’s not knocking or rattling then you’re good to go. You’re just basically running two stroke (premix) gas in a four stroke. Prob why it feels underpowered. You could prob keep riding it and it will eventually burn all the puked oil out and stop the smoking. Your plugs should probably be changed soon tho. They may start fowling with all the oil in there.

keep in mind there is a lot of “probably” in that.

All the symptoms you are describing is from oil puking in the air box. Check and make sure the oil doesn’t have coolant and coolant doesn’t have oil and your temps are staying normal. Very good chance you have no head gasket issues. Like RJ said it takes a decent amount of overfill and riding to start catastrophic damage. The biggest issue is the oil lever is too high and being sloshed around by the crank and foaming it up. Foamy oil want pump and lubricator the upper part of the motor.
so if your oil is clean and staying at the same level. Coolant is clean as staying at the same . Temps low. No ticking or rattling now that you have the oil level fixed you are probably 99% just fine.


with the white smoke at start up does it smell “sweet”. I’d probably check that coolant level asap and make sure it’s not loosing coolant. There is likely hood you do have a leaky gasket and that smoke is coming from burning coolant
but Hopefully
the reason it does the smoking first thing is while it sits there that extra oil in your air box has time to drip and run down into your throttle body openings so on first start up you are burning a bunch of oil with your gas and then as you get going it’s then just mostly burning fuel and air.

Everything ticks. If the temp light isn’t coming on then you’re good. It’s called a “dummy” light it will only come on when it reaches unsafe temps. If it does you need to shut it down and let it cool. . I can’t remember if your year has a digital read out. Someone in here may. You may scroll through the dash settings and see if one pulls up. To check the coolent tho ya just simply remove the radiator cap make sure it’s still full and stays full. I get my years mixed up till I’m looking at it. 99% sure yours is on the right side below the left clip on. You may have to pull a push pin and lift that side of the dash filler plastic to actually see the cap tho. Then it’s just simply taking it off and looking. Should be full. Your overflow jug should be half full ish. It will have min and max fill lines on it. You can usually get to the overflow jug without lifting the plastics so just seeing that it’s got some would be a decent start. Don’t confuse the overflow with the radiator. If it’s a plastic screw on lid. (Like a soda bottle) then That’s your overflow. The radiator will be aluminum and be more of a wing shape than round and will just turn a half a turn or so to latch. Make sure it’s latched back tight. They can be a little tricky being there a little hard to get your hand down. If it’s not tight it’s gonna steam and leak coolant.

this being a older bike and new to you. It would be a good idea to have a mechanic look it over good. Give it a fresh go over. Coolant flush. Spark plugs,filter, brake pad wear and brake fluid is always a good idea to flush and bleed. Every year is recommend i usually don’t stick to that honestly but least every 2-3 tops on my personal stuff. Check your chain slack. Just a good visible inspection by a guy who works on bikes for a living. It may cost you a little now but that could save you a ton in the future. That or get you a service manual and give it a go yourself. But I’d recommend having it all done first by someone who knows what they are doing and then you be aware of how it is and when you do routine look overs you will notice anything that’s changed or not performing as it was and address those as you get to them.

You never did answer if you are checking the oil window with the bike level and not on the side stand? If it’s full on the stand you are still a decent amount over filled

Be careful on the ordering. Lots of shops. Me included really hate that. It’s hard to stand by your work when using parts you arnt familiar with or recommend and chances are you want save anything . With that said 99% of everything. Plugs, oil, oil filter. That’s stuff every shop keeps in stock. You could ask the old owner what oil he has been using and maybe just a stick with that I typically like running whatever oil an engine has always ran or whatever quality brand the shop uses will be fine. Now the air filter. That’s something you could research see what you want. I’d honestly stick with oem if you arnt trying to squeeze every ounce of power you can. Oem is going to filter better than a strictly race filter. Some guys love K&n I want use them anymore. I did about 3 days riding at the beach with one and had sand by pass it and the other bike we took had a bcm race filter and it stopped 100% of the sand. So idk. That just scared me away from K&n.
Brake pads. I’d also stick with street or oem. Race pads sound like an upgrade but it’s hard to ride hard enough on public street to get them heated enough to work as well as they should. And they don’t come with much pad life so I’d avoid that. Spark plugs id run ngk cr9e and that’s plugs any motorcycle shop will have on the shelf.

And your after it’s warmed up idle being 12k is high. That could be cause of several things and resulting in a hard start. A bike not correctly idling will not correctly start. Like if the choke/enricher whatever you have is fully off and the bike is warmed up and idling 900 slightly pulling or engaging that function will cause the bike to idle higher. The more you engage it the higher it idles. That’s why on fi bikes that function is tuned into it and you have two idles. A cold idle and your normal operating temp idle. Cold idle will always be a few hundred rpm higher. Or least should. That helps warm the motor up and get its juices flowing. Ideally you should engage the choke/enricher whatever. Hit the button the bike start and idle high till it’s warmed up. Temps will depend on the amount of time you spend doing that. The you release and ride. You really shouldn’t rev or mess with the throttle when it’s running choked ir enriched. Just let it idle to get to operating temps

That’s what lead RJ to suggest you may have an issue with your choke/enricher not fully engaging.