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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I figure I'd better start a thread, rather than keep making new posts for every bit of rubbish I find on this benighted wreck.

We have a several careless owner, somewhat crashed, 25K miles (but apparently though gravel filled snow), mostly complete example which has been crudely repainted with inch thick paint.

When collected after buying sight unseen, it was FULL, and I mean FULL of dead spiders. Last road registered in 2017.

When sold as 'just needs a battery', you know you're in for a good ride, right? :D Luckily I like a challenge.

During initial exploration:


List of bits I've had to buy it:
  • Right hand switch gear (start button was present, but under the seat, snapped)
  • Left hand passenger footpeg.
  • Two engine bolts.
  • Seat and battery retaining bracket.
  • Ram-Air valve and airbox hose.
  • Water cooler.
  • Oil cooler.
  • Mirrors.
  • Led dash kit.
  • fuel pump.
  • water-resistant electrical connectors.
  • fuel tap refurb kit.
  • LED indicators and relay.
  • Fluids service.
List of things I've done to it:
  • Traced and repaired the broken wires preventing cranking
  • Cleaned all the corroded connectors (on first power up NOTHING worked, NOTHING)
  • Replaced countless twist and tape horrors with water-resistant connectors
  • Ultrasonically cleaned the carbs
  • loosened the chain so the rear wheel can actually turn.
  • fixed the brake light switch
  • redone the exhaust so it has actual exhaust studs and doesn't leak
It's not yet had a new battery, I just borrow the one out of my bandit if I need power :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
So today I beat one of the front brakes off, the front wheel has never been 'keen' on turning and I was pretty sure the brakes were binding.
I find that whatever MORON was in there before me, whilst they have put copper grease on things like the pad pin, they've installed the pistons backwards so the hollow part is inside the caliper... that must have cost them a lot in brake fluid to fill the caliper :)

The seals look swollen so I'm going to need to rebuild them anyway.
I guess I will just drill a hole in the piston face, drive in a decent screw and pull them out with that but we need to talk about rebuild kits...

Does this look reasonable? Kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja front brake caliper piston seal rebuild kit 1995 1996 1997 | eBay
Anyone know of any other options in the UK market?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Aren't the pistons chromed steel? I've not idea how long they've been in there backwards and I'm not gleeful about the idea of putting them in right way round and expecting them to NOT tear up the new seals.

The ebay thing says they're ground stainless and made in the uk but in fairness, lies are cheap.

I've never had much luck getting brakes apart with compressed air, I tend to get one of the pistons to pop and the other is stuck forever. The last ones i worked on were just twin pot, not 4. no harm in trying though, if i fail i'll just do something else :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So humbleness is a thing I was wrong, the piston ARE in the right way round they're just fitted with some kind of packing


I was hoping I could get this out and use a piston puller to get the piston out. The seals and stuff are all knackered so need replaced.

Everyone seems to say the pop pistons out with air, but how it's beyond me how you get four pots to pop simultaneously, and after splitting the halves, all the holes are open so you can't build pressure anyway.

Otherwise I'm going drill and tap these inserts and pull them with a bolt and a slide hammer.

I cannot seem to improve my skills here at all :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
bad form, but i checked wemoto again and they had a deal on the reconditioning packs, so I just bought them. I'll smash these pistons out one way or another but i don't need to care about them so much since I'll have fresh ones in a few days \o/

I'll whack the calipers through the ultrasonic machine to make sure they're spanking for reassembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Firstly.. WEIRD but okay

Second, to remove the pistons with air, you're right. The large holes left behind after removing a piston means air just comes out the big hole, making removal of further pistons impossible. Instead of removing any pistons, you want to have them all in the caliper, then take a piece of wood that is small enough to fit inside the gap where the brake disks sits. Use air to push them out all the way TO THE WOOD. Then once they are all almost popped out all the way. Split the caliper, remove the pistons the final 5/10mm with say, a piece of bike inner tube rubber (for grip) and a pair of your favourite pliars.
hmm, thanks, I'll try the rubber bit a go, I'm not sure if I'm just weak or what, but I really struggle to make them move.
I did pump them out to a large block of wood till they all moved, then a smaller bit of wood, till they all moved out to that point, then a single brake pad, and then they started farting fluid so that was as far out as they were coming.
 
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