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Discussion Starter #21
Gotcha. I think what I was doing too is I would gently preload the shifter like I do on a normal bike, and when you pull in the clutch it would let your foot move the shifter, and coming from a 300, every millisecond between shifts matters! Haha.

So I think it would start or try a quick shift when I would try to shift normally. When I 'lead' my shifts with the clutch, it is 100% smooth with no ignition cut or anything. So yeah, again, just me learning the bike! Loving it more and more every day.

-Mike
 

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Also, @SparkyMJ can you hear a faint buzzing sound near about 10k? For me it sounds like it comes from the left-front side of the bike but I checked everything I could and nothing feels loose or not fitted properly anywhere. It kinda sounds like a bumble bee on low volume (for the lack of a better descriptor).
Hackrides, I do think there is a faint buzzing sound at mid-high range rpms, I havent narrowed it down to an rpm or a location yet, but I think yes. My mirrors vibrate right around that same rpm as well, I think that is just how bodywork and plastics are. I noticed it the day or so when I first got it, but I have reduced it.
So there are a couple things that are most likely the buzzing you are hearing. The stator is on the left side, and if you are tucked in with your head low or anywhere near that area, you will hear it buzzing (it makes this noise as it spins). I notice it most during track days when I'm hanging off that side of the bike.

The other big possibility is the clutch lever vibrating in the pivot point. Touch your fingers on the lever when you hear the buzzing and see if it stops. This happened on my 2008 Ninja 250R. I tightened the pivot bolt down and it took care of that.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Hmm good calls. My clutch lever is tight, it has an OEM amount of 'play' around the bolt that is the lever pivot point. It is a little dry I think though, maybe some fresh oil wiped on there would probably help. I did have to re-oil the brake lever, not out of necessity, but because the bike sat on a showroom floor for a long time, and the grease they put in there had dried or dripped away or something. So I may pull the clutch lever off and just clean it up and oil it a bit too.

I really don't have any complaints with buzzing lately since I taped the frame and parts. I think I do have a small buzz at like 2-3k RPM, but it might be just the engine or exhaust, but its me really nit-picking as close as I can. Not even noticeable with a helmet on.

-Mike
 

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1st service done! Everything is great except that I still very much hear the buzzing sound. Still haven't wrung its neck but thats what this coming weekend is for ;)

On the noise front, nothing (levers, cables, etc.) is loose as per the mechs at Kawi and myself (with my limited experieince). I think its just something I need to live tbh. I will try to do what @SparkyMJ did with the foam tape though.

@SparkyMJ Here's the stuff you asked for:
Frame Sliders - Puig Pro
Wind screen - Puig Racing / Double Bubble - Dark Smoke
Fork Protectors - Evotech Spindle Bobbins

All in all, I'm so glad I didn't go for the 10R. It was just way too heavy for me. 6R is just so much more fun overall!
 

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The ear plugs one is supposed to be wearing while riding helps with minor annoying vibration noises as well!
I haven't ever used plugs actually. Maybe its time to give them a try. I just get a bit nervous about not being able to hear shit around me. Ride/drive in India a little and you'll know why 😪
 

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View attachment 104411
Ah you're right, you're right haha. Freezing ass cold day here in northern AZ, so I didn't get much time to stand around outside, but here she is, first time coming home.

Thanks for the tips on the shifter, good to know. I may just shift conventionally when Im moving through the town or something. I will say though, I had to take it through one of the local favorite set of twisties to get it home, and boy did it feel good in the turns, rolling on the throttle coming out. It's what I've been dreaming of since I got into riding for sure! I'll have to take it out on a warmer day and do the canyons proper and really get it warmed up and bangin through gears.

Any more suggestions welcome. Thanks!

-Mike
I just got the same bike same year, I've put 600 miles on mine so far. Be careful with how torquey this bike is during break in almost had her slip out on me in a sharp corner... these new tires with cold road =bad riding conditions lol. But I saw what you said about your shifting... i have only had one kr two times where the qs acted kinda funny. And I never had the bume just die on me during idle but every bike is different hopefully all will be well after break In. Oh and btw the bike is 3000% louder with a m4 gp slip on.. it sounds like my buddy's zx10r he has the same exhaust and it's hard to determine which is which on just sound. Anyways keep us up to date on ur bike man! I love the grey I had to go with black... only one left on lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Thanks for the links!

Hackrides, Yeah havent ridden in India for sure haha, but a good set of earplugs goes a long way. I posted a comment about this in another thread on here somewhere, someone asked about them.

I said I use the Pinlock brand ear plugs, and I give em a solid 8/10. I think they designed them with a set range of frequencies to dampen, the ones that engine noises and wind noise make, which are relatively bass-y sounds, so I can actually still hear my sena and other voices and other driving noises when riding quite well. The comfort isn't perfect, but that subject to your ear shape, so depends on the user. Highly recommend them though. Try the foam tape on the frame and try to compare it before and after!

Salty yeah haha the torque definitely is something to get used to! Mine got me after break in (at 1000 ish miles now) and the engine DEFINITELY makes more power after break in, because now the bike power wheelies in first gear! Haha. Never experienced that before, so it gets me still lol. Just having 3x the power and torque from my old bike presents a new set of hazards to handle while riding, but all in all it's going well. I usually ride around on TC setting 2, because the mornings are still quite cold and the roads in my commute are mediocre, but when it's a nice hot dry sunny AZ afternoon, set it to 1.

Glad to hear you chose the right bike!
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Yeah so I've concluded they set the cut times longer on the 6R at least to make it more street-able. If you QS in the mid range (which is where you would be most of the time on the street) its actually superbly smooth. Not sure about the 10R, but I do know many have concluded that the 6R was built for the street, and that would follow suit with the QS cut times. At redline full throttle, yeah, it could be a bit faster.

Is that something you can adjust in a stock ECU reflash? That would be super cool. I think I would speed it up just a tad, making its sweetspot more around 12k instead of like, 9k. That way 16k shifts would be smoother, and it'll be real buttery for a good street pull when Im not completely on the throttle, and I prefer to just use my clutch when I am going slow or the rpms are just too low. I've actually come to use the clutch way more often than I thought I would, it is just smoother for the slow streets and when I'm not on the freeway.

If it could be tweaked, that's got me dead sold on an ECU flash. Been wanting to do it for a while to remove all the bad and tune in some good, and if I can modify the QS times that would be the best of all the worlds.

-Mike
 

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Yeah so I've concluded they set the cut times longer on the 6R at least to make it more street-able. If you QS in the mid range (which is where you would be most of the time on the street) its actually superbly smooth. Not sure about the 10R, but I do know many have concluded that the 6R was built for the street, and that would follow suit with the QS cut times. At redline full throttle, yeah, it could be a bit faster.

Is that something you can adjust in a stock ECU reflash? That would be super cool. I think I would speed it up just a tad, making its sweetspot more around 12k instead of like, 9k. That way 16k shifts would be smoother, and it'll be real buttery for a good street pull when Im not completely on the throttle, and I prefer to just use my clutch when I am going slow or the rpms are just too low. I've actually come to use the clutch way more often than I thought I would, it is just smoother for the slow streets and when I'm not on the freeway.

If it could be tweaked, that's got me dead sold on an ECU flash. Been wanting to do it for a while to remove all the bad and tune in some good, and if I can modify the QS times that would be the best of all the worlds.

-Mike
I'm not sure if kill times can be adjusted with the stock zx6r sensor. I don't see that feature available from woolich or FTECU for the zx6r.

Here's a video on cut times with an aftermarket sensor though.

 

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Discussion Starter #32
Dang, was hoping I could do it with stock parts, that would be super rad. A new sensor might just be out of my budget for a while. The bike in the video sounds really really good on his shifts, big difference between stock and that.

-Mike
 

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Ah yeah I have seen that last year. I did run it in decently hard, getting some good WOT redline pulls right at the end of the 600 miles. Did the oil change today, and all is working well! It does seem to actually get better mileage and have better super low end torque, so I think it came out well. Idle is much more stable than it was when I first picked it up.

Also folks, dropped the damn bike today doing my first chain cleaning, uhg. Im a total dumbass, thinking my janky 300 rear stand would work okay for this bike, sure enough it toppled easily. Bent a break lever, and scraped up the front fairing... 4 days old and now she's really broken in, lol. New lever on the way, probably going to smooth out the scratches and plastidip the pieces.

Uhg lol, didn't even go down when riding, it was while doing maintenance, that is so stupid lol.
At least I got to drag knee on it before dropping it haha.

Learn from my mistakes, get quality stands guys. If anyone has suggestions for making this look better, I posted a thread in MC talk, and advice would be much appreciated.

She's riding great though, I am having a blast, and I absolutely love this bike.

-Mike
View attachment 104433
You picked the perfect panel to drop it on. No need to paint match. Plastidip will fix that right up :)
 

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Discussion Starter #34
You picked the perfect panel to drop it on. No need to paint match. Plastidip will fix that right up :)
Dude no kidding. Picture of the cracked and scratched piece after the work done if I forgot to post it here as well. Not camera shy with the bike anymore! Plus, plasti dip still wipes clean and takes water just as well as the other plastic pieces. Very happy with it. I also used plastic specific JB weld (says works on motorcycle parts!) and it has held up for about a thousand miles now! High speeds and winds haven't re cracked it at all. Highly recommend for a cheap easy to find solution if anyone needs glue for ABS.


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