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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently changed my stator on my 09 zx6 I didn't use lock tight and one of the Allen screw came lose or was lose after a quick ride for about 15 mins when I went to start the bike it died instantly and felt like it locked up. I took the stator cover off and found one of the Allen heads came loss and was wore down I replaced changed oil and tried again. Bike starts with gas and runs with gas but as soon as I let off it instantly dies like it is under load. Kinda of leaning towards oil pump related.
 

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Start with the last thing you touched, and work from there. What did that loose bolt get jammed into, that caused the wear?
 

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There's only 1 component the Bolts can come into contact with and that's the Rotor and on that Model the Rotor surface has different heights so I wonder if the Bolt hard up against the Rotor has caused it to rotate slightly throwing of the Timming.
It's on a Taper and to be honest is very secure but has that been out lately and not Torqued up properly, All supposition but a definite maybe.
 

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That’s interesting, Kev. I would have expected something pressed onto a tapered shaft to have a shear key to ensure alignment….
 

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The actual timing of the phases of AC power going to the R/R is moot, so long as they maintain something near 120 degrees phase to phase. It really doesn’t matter if any phase starts at TDC of cyl #1…..
 

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What a Plonker I actually posted the Reluctor is on the other end so it can't effect Ignition timing this end.......:rolleyes:
Cheers RJ lol
 

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I’m not a fan of single point failure mechanisms. I don’t think the shaft could bend from riding over that loose bolt….. but I wonder if the rotor could bend with respect to the shaft?

How does something induce enough drag in that area to slow the crankshaft enough to kill the idle?
 

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Agree, Belt & Braces as we say.

Tbh the Rotor and shaft are beyong Damage in that respect from one of those small Bolts, Now I'm off the Timing comment I can't see how that would cause his issue.
 

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Might be helpful for some more info from Hueghits369

How Many Miles ?
Reason for Stator replacement ? (Obvious but worth the ask)
Any other work done recently ?
Was it running fine previously ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Start with the last thing you touched, and work from there. What did that loose bolt get jammed into, that caused the wear?
[/QUOT
That's what I always do usually when it's someone else's work. But I replaced the allen bolt on the stator that was wore and sprayed out used locked tight and put it back on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
There's only 1 component the Bolts can come into contact with and that's the Rotor and on that Model the Rotor surface has different heights so I wonder if the Bolt hard up against the Rotor has caused it to rotate slightly throwing of the Timming.
It's on a Taper and to be honest is very secure but has that been out lately and not Torqued up properly, All supposition but a definite maybe.
Yeah that what I'm worried about. I know those are not easy to replace. It seem to run fine but it just need more rpm to stay running and feels like the engine is underload when it stalls.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Might be helpful for some more info from Hueghits369

How Many Miles ?
Reason for Stator replacement ? (Obvious but worth the ask)
Any other work done recently ?
Was it running fine previously ?
Stator was toast and bike as been solid other then that it has 20k on it
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I’m not a fan of single point failure mechanisms. I don’t think the shaft could bend from riding over that loose bolt….. but I wonder if the rotor could bend with respect to the shaft?

How does something induce enough drag in that area to slow the crankshaft enough to kill the idle?
I agree it seems to run fine with more rpm but as soon as I let off it stalls similar to it would if it was in gear. But sudden and won't start unless I give it gas. The bolt must have been lose to start because I only have maybe a half hour of ride time on it since I replaced the stator. I'll pull it back off post a pic I really appreciate any input since I can't find anything on this. This seems like a good group that responds quick so I will try to do the same.
 

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If the ONLY thing on the bike that has been disturbed is in the area of the stator, it would be logical to expect the problem to be in that area. It may not be as straightforward as that. Without using a meter to check the charging system, since you installed new components there's a chance something is still wrong with the replacement parts.

Have you ensured the battery is fully charged?

Can you verify the values required in the shop manual are present from the alternator and from the R/R?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I have a meter and I will check that tonight as I agree it makes the most sense to start the bike did start up and run fine for the little bit I ride were as before the headlights would dim and then die in about 15 mins
 

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I changed the oil the plugs and the battery and it runs fine now. Not sure what did it but I'll take it.
Probably the stator failure left the battery fried, once the battery charge was replaced, it was enough to start the bike and ride for those 15 minutes until the low charge caused the engine to fail. Almost certainly the missing screw had nothing to do with the failure, but the good thing is that you discovered that it had come out.
They are assumptions but the important thing is that now it works ok . Enjoy!!
 
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