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09 intermittent cutting out issue

3259 Views 11 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Strider
Hi guys,
Picked up my new 09 zx6r on Saturday , 7000 miles on clock. I've checked search but couldn't find no similar stories.
One thing I've noticed which has happened 3 times since Saturday , is if I go to work on the bike (approx 13 mile) , leave the bike all day and then start it to come home , it will fire up straight away - run fine while I put my gear on etc... But when I initially pull away it will stall , upon trying to start back up it will crank for approx 2 - 3 seconds then fire up when I apply some throttle.
At first I thought it might be my error as I've only been riding a short while but I monitored it today and It didn't seem to be myself causing the issue.
Started first thing in the morning and all is fine.

Anybody had any similar issues or can advise,
My worry is that it has 3 months warranty but I did buy from a triumph dealer so not sure what will happen if I take it back for diagnosis.
Thanks in advance
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Do you let it warm up completely before you pull away?

The bike will increase the idle speed during initial warm up, and if you don't wait until it reads a temperature on the gauge and the idle returns to the normal lower speed, then it will stall if you apply and remove throttle.

Also, once it is completely warmed up, adjust your idle so it's set to ~1500 RMP.
Thanks Strider,
Im pretty sure it's not running long enough to register an engine temp, it's probably left to idle for a minute or two. The same time I would leave it on any occasion.
So what you are saying is its best for me to let the cold start phase complete, allow the revs to drop then continue the journey? I would have thought on cold start it would be harder to stall being as he revs are higher. So out of curiosity why do you believe this is normal?

Good point with the idle speed, I know it dosnt run at 1500rpm so I will tweak this next time .
Thanks
With only 7000 miles on the clock for a 2009, the bike has sat somewhere for a length of time. It could be a lot things, even a clogged injector or two or three or four.

I bought a bike with 90,000 miles on it that had sat in a garage every winter and in the spring it would get tuned. What ended up happening over the long term was the bike got tuned around fuel injectors that were getting progressively worse and more clogged every season. When I bought the bike I had the injectors cleaned right away and when I reinstalled them the bike was idling at close to 4K rpm's! I had to basically detune the bike after getting the injectors cleaned.

Are dirty injectors your problem? Maybe, it could be about hundred other things though. There would be no harm in taking the injectors out to have them cleaned if you have the time. It would at least check that off of the list.
I personally won't ride my bike until it reaches 140*, which is where it has fully warmed up and the idle drops.
Yeah, I almost always warm mine up to at least 130-140F before setting off. If I try to grab throttle immediately after cold start it'll stutter and threaten to cut out as it takes a few seconds before the idle speed ramps up...
ok so quick question.... how do you clean the injectors!
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Thanks Strider,
Im pretty sure it's not running long enough to register an engine temp, it's probably left to idle for a minute or two. The same time I would leave it on any occasion.
So what you are saying is its best for me to let the cold start phase complete, allow the revs to drop then continue the journey? I would have thought on cold start it would be harder to stall being as he revs are higher. So out of curiosity why do you believe this is normal?

Good point with the idle speed, I know it dosnt run at 1500rpm so I will tweak this next time .
Thanks
Yes, if you want to avoid the stuttering and stalling.

I'm not sure what the reason behind it happening this way is, but any bike will stutter or stall if you do that. It's just the way a cold engine responds.

Yea, that will definitely make it more prone to stalling.
The bike also enriches the mix until its warm, like the choke on a carbed bike. If you have some mods like exhaust, filter, etc... the enrichment amount might not be enough any more unless youve got a fuel programmer adding some juice.
On my last bike my programmer wouldnt touch idle (old style dobeck), the more mods I did the more stall prone the bike became when cold.
ok so quick question.... how do you clean the injectors!
They are all in a nice row in the throttle body assembly. Simply disconnect and pull them out. You should be able to do this with simple hand tools.

Once removed they need to cleaned correctly and the best way is with an Ultra-Sonic cleaning machine. I am fortunate to have a Yamaha shop really close to my house that has such a machine. They charge me $25 for the cleaning and I just leave the injectors with them overnight. Pick up the next day and reinstall.

I'd imagine just about any reputable motorcycle service shop will have this machine. Ask around and see who gives you the best price.
They are all in a nice row in the throttle body assembly. Simply disconnect and pull them out. You should be able to do this with simple hand tools.

Once removed they need to cleaned correctly and the best way is with an Ultra-Sonic cleaning machine. I am fortunate to have a Yamaha shop really close to my house that has such a machine. They charge me $25 for the cleaning and I just leave the injectors with them overnight. Pick up the next day and reinstall.

I'd imagine just about any reputable motorcycle service shop will have this machine. Ask around and see who gives you the best price.
Or you can get your own ultrasonic cleaner for just a few more dollars: Ultrasonic Cleaner - Save on Ultrasonic Cleaners at HFT
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