[RJ2112]

I just looked up my bike on BikeBandit:

2009 Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R ZX600R9F Parts, 2009 Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R ZX600R9F OEM Parts - BikeBandit.com

They show two different types of clutch plate, 13088A and the plain 13088.

From what the picture seems to show in the parts breakdown, it LOOKS like there is a single 13088A on each end of the stack of plates with the rest between them being 13088.

Obviously there is alternation between pressure plates and friction plates...... can anyone tell me what the difference between the end plates and the ones in the middle might be?

 

[RJ2112]

the good news is, I used a micrometer to measure the clutch friction material.... all the plates are effectively brand new.

Looks like the throw rod failure is all I need to fix. That cam lever pulling the button on the end of the rod that spreads the clutch basket out is terrible design, IMHO. I've heard on this board of multiple failures of that part.

This is a $50 fix that shouldn't need to be done. Better than a $170 in parts; I am grateful for that. A new gasket and a new rod is all that should be required to make my bike whole again.

Has this part been redesigned? Anyone know?

 

[beckzach05]

Obviously there is alternation between pressure plates and friction plates...... can anyone tell me what the difference between the end plates and the ones in the middle might be?

There is a tab in a different location to lock the first plate into place in the clutch basket. That's the difference.

 

[RJ2112]

There is a tab in a different location to lock the first plate into place in the clutch basket. That's the difference.

Thanks. Looking at the parts breakdowns on a couple of different sites, there looks like there are at least two different p/n plates in the clutch pack. I took all of the clutch plates and pressure plates out of the tranny last night and used a micrometer to measure the friction material. All at the 'new' end of the measurment range. The outer most plate was a little thicker than the rest, other than that they looked almost identical. I would have missed the locator tab as a difference.

I kept the plates in order, and loaded them back in, in the same order they came out.

 

[corkoli]

Hi RJ2112,
This may be a little late now, but this could be good for other forum users down the track.
Assuming all your plates are within wear tolerances and are not warped:
-Is there a possible gain in moving the thicker, outer plates closer to the middle? Similar to rotating tyres on your car. Could this extend the service life of the clutch plates?
-As long as the plates alternate b/n pressure plate & clutch plate when re-stacking/building, is there any concern about the plates being altered from their original order?
-I've done two dirt bike clutches before and the pressure plates had a specific installation instruction stating the sharper/squarer edged side of the plate (created during manufacturing) should be closest to the inside. Does the same apply with '09 ZX6R?

Maybe someone could chip in with some definitives?

 

[RJ2112]

the good news is, I used a micrometer to measure the clutch friction material.... all the plates are effectively brand new.

Looks like the throw rod failure is all I need to fix. That cam lever pulling the button on the end of the rod that spreads the clutch basket out is terrible design, IMHO. I've heard on this board of multiple failures of that part.

This is a $50 fix that shouldn't need to be done. Better than a $170 in parts; I am grateful for that. A new gasket and a new rod is all that should be required to make my bike whole again.

Has this part been redesigned? Anyone know?

I can confirm that the throw rod has been redesigned... the button on the end that the lever pulls on is at least 3 times as thick on my replacement part as on the origional.

Got the parts in middle of the week, had the time today to put it together. Over all a straight forward job.

 

[RJ2112]

I can confirm that the throw rod has been redesigned... the button on the end that the lever pulls on is at least 3 times as thick on my replacement part as on the origional.

Got the parts in middle of the week, had the time today to put it together. Over all a straight forward job.

Weeelll..... it should have been a straight forward job; would have been if I had simply followed all the directions.

Took the bike out this afternoon, with a break in the weather to see how the rod worked out. Everything was fine, until I ran the bike up past about 8K, and the clutch would slip like crazy. :Olain:

Immediately took the bike home and popped off the clutch cover again. Couldn't see anything obvious, but it was a real bear to get the rod to engage the shaft, to pull the clutch pack apart. I ended up repeating the whole process about a dozen times and could not get it to work properly.:rant

Frustration was setting in..... wife managed to distract me by having me work on stock fence for about halr an hour. While I was out there cooling off, it occurred to me that I must have missed something.

Took another look through the shop manual -- the pressure plate needs to be set in a particular spot:idea: -- there are teeth on the back of the plate that engage with the basket that I hadn't noticed. Once I rotated the plate to align that slot and tab, everything fell into place.

Buttoned it up, took it out for a spin, all is well. Clutch action is now better than at any point I have owned this bike. Suhweet!:

 

[RJ2112]

I just looked up my bike on BikeBandit:

2009 Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R ZX600R9F Parts, 2009 Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R ZX600R9F OEM Parts - BikeBandit.com

They show two different types of clutch plate, 13088A and the plain 13088.

From what the picture seems to show in the parts breakdown, it LOOKS like there is a single 13088A on each end of the stack of plates with the rest between them being 13088.

Obviously there is alternation between pressure plates and friction plates...... can anyone tell me what the difference between the end plates and the ones in the middle might be?

In the process of taking the clutch apart for the 3rd or 4th time, I finally noticed the statement in the manual... the first and last friction plates have 36 lining blocks compared to 48 for the middle plates.

 

[corkoli]

Well done for getting it all squared-away.
And x2 plus-good for making the updates on your thread.

 

[RJ2112]

Well done for getting it all squared-away.
And x2 plus-good for making the updates on your thread.

Thanks. It does feel good to get it sorted out -- I wouldn't have been able to without the shop manual I downloaded from here. Thanks to the person who set that up!!!!

If you have to get into the clutch, the deepest pair of friction and pressure plates are separated from the 'outer' ones by a conical spring which sits on a flat washer that is about as wide as a piston ring. If you think of the conical spring as as another flat washer than has the inner edge pushed in about twice the thickness of the metal, that would be it.

These two (I think) work together to let the slipper clutch work. I think it allows the back wheel to lift just the innermost friction/plate pair out, so you get a slight anti-torque effect.

I've had cruisers that have Sprague clutches, where there is a dog that spreads the entire clutch pack when you chop off the throttle... this would be much less intrusive.

There was another thread about a guy in Ireland that was going from dirt to street...... my driveway is gravel, and about 500' long. I did a power slide headed out to the pavement. :devious No slippage at all, on the street.: