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Discussion Starter #1
The regulator rectifier on the 09-12 zx6 is smaller and 4 oz lighter than the one used on the newer bikes. Since the load is much lower on a race bike, i'm assuming that using the reg/rec from the older bike on a newer 636 would not be an issue? Anyone have any insight here?
 

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The OEM R/R, at least through '18, is a shunt design. That means when the battery is fully charged (indicated by~ 14.3 VDC at the battery terminals) all excess power is dumped into a load resistor. The alternator runs at maximum when this happens, and keeps doing so for as long as the bike is running.

The regulator portion is a sense circuit that controls a relay to switch where the current flows. Simple on / off setup.

FET R/R use a different approach to limiting excess power being applied to the battery. The regulator portion uses a field effect transistor (FET) to act as a valve on the current flowing out to the battery. Instead of just switching tracks and letting the alternator run at WFO, the FET changes the resistance going to the battery so less current flows. Closes the tap, so to speak. The alternator output goes down, and less heat is generated.

If you want to replace the OEM R/R, I'd go aftermarket FET.

This all matters on a race bike, because the electrical load is considerably less than a street bike. Takes much less time to recharge the battery, if you're not running any head lights, market lights, etc.
 

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The OEM R/R, at least through '18, is a shunt design. That means when the battery is fully charged (indicated by~ 14.3 VDC at the battery terminals) all excess power is dumped into a load resistor. The alternator runs at maximum when this happens, and keeps doing so for as long as the bike is running.

The regulator portion is a sense circuit that controls a relay to switch where the current flows. Simple on / off setup.

FET R/R use a different approach to limiting excess power being applied to the battery. The regulator portion uses a field effect transistor (FET) to act as a valve on the current flowing out to the battery. Instead of just switching tracks and letting the alternator run at WFO, the FET changes the resistance going to the battery so less current flows. Closes the tap, so to speak. The alternator output goes down, and less heat is generated.

If you want to replace the OEM R/R, I'd go aftermarket FET.

This all matters on a race bike, because the electrical load is considerably less than a street bike. Takes much less time to recharge the battery, if you're not running any head lights, market lights, etc.
Did you test this for determination or run across a schematic? If you found the schematic for the rectifier would you be kind enough to share your source of information, please?
 

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There's a bunch of Voltage regulator schematics online, this is one of the simpler examples

I can't say that this is the specific layout of the design I bought and installed.
 

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Eventually, they add up to pounds.
So does skipping that latte or taking a shit......

unless you are in the top 1% of 1% it is highly unlikely even 10lbs either way will make any difference at all to your lap times
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So does skipping that latte or taking a shit......
You know, you're probably right. From this day forth, I will no longer be focusing on building a faster motorcycle. Rivers, you and your infinite wisdom have allowed me to see the light at the end of the tunnel. Today will be the day that I embark on a journey very few have treaded. Today, I zx6rguiy, will now be the forefront in weight reduction technology via bigger shits. My first trial will be a blueberry purge. I'll let you guess what that means. I will keep all of you posted. Wish me luck.
 

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So does skipping that latte or taking a shit......

unless you are in the top 1% of 1% it is highly unlikely even 10lbs either way will make any difference at all to your lap times

Although his reply to your post did make me legit laugh out loud... riverszzr is correct. After a few expert podiums and a handful of endurance podiums and wins...I can say for sure, that yes, ounces do equal pounds. But will it ever make a difference at the club level? Doubtful.

Dropping 5 pounds from the chassis? Whatever. Unless you're measuring your fuel in ounces for each sprint race, there's far more weight to be lost in your gas tank. ;)

Now dropping 5-10 pounds of rotational weight in the form of carbon fiber wheels?? Ok now we talking...
 
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