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Discussion Starter #1
As I was going through checking valve clearances, I reached the step where i needed to remove the camshaft caps. So these bolts were way tight. It was a struggle gettting each off. They are hex shaped heads so they were getting kinda stripped after I got each off. I had 3 more to go and then one was way tighter than the rest and was kinda stripped. So now I have a stripped bolt that I really dont know what to do about. If I drill it out, crap could get into the engine. anybody have a suggestion?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So u rounded the head?
These things were on so tight. If I had a shop do it, they would have rounded one as well. Theres a video of a guy who had the same problem as me with getting one stripped. Do you know anyway how I could get it off?
 

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U can use a dremel to shave 2 opposite sides of it and grab it with with some channel locks and turn.
Or use the dremel and cut a straight line into the head. Use a flathead bit on a wrench to try and turn it.
Hold a powerful vacuum at it as youre doing the dremeling.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
U can use a dremel to shave 2 opposite sides of it and grab it with with some channel locks and turn.
Or use the dremel and cut a straight line into the head. Use a flathead bit on a wrench to try and turn it.
Hold a powerful vacuum at it as youre doing the dremeling.
im gonna pick a dremel up and try this out. I'll do what i can with keeping crap from getting in the engine. I have a shop vac but nothing good. ty for ur advice
 

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If you can get a pair of vice grips to clamp on to the head of the bolt, I would try that before cutting into it. You could also use the next size bigger hex head, and drive it into the bolt so it's firmly wedged int there. Either way, you don't add debris to the internals.
 

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It's a day late and a dollar short, but this type of thing happens more often than you realize. I see this a lot with the pinch bolts on the forks. The additional mistake (first being over-torqued) is you unevenly loosened the cap bolts.

On the axle pinch bolts, people will almost always be able to loosen one, but not the second. This is because when you loosened the first one, it's now placing additional strain on the other bolt. The other bolt might not have been over torqued initially, but it is now. The thing to do is actually re-tighten the one loosen cap bolt to help relieve some tension off the bolt you can't remove.

The allens holding on the cam caps are hardened (hence the black coating), and the likelihood of rounding those out using the proper sized allen with it fully inserted, not twisting the ratchet sideways (in the sense that it makes the allen bit want to walk off of the bolt head) is extremely rare.

However, if it was the last allen bolt you attempted to loosen, with little/no strain left on the other bolts, between all that, and the valve springs pushing up on the cam/cam cap, creating additional tension...yeah. Gonna have a bad day with that.

Retighten all of the other bolts tight and try to loosen it again.

1/4-1/2 turn only when doing any kind of initial bolt loosening on stuff like that, until all bolts are loosened. Always.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It's a day late and a dollar short, but this type of thing happens more often than you realize. I see this a lot with the pinch bolts on the forks. The additional mistake (first being over-torqued) is you unevenly loosened the cap bolts.

On the axle pinch bolts, people will almost always be able to loosen one, but not the second. This is because when you loosened the first one, it's now placing additional strain on the other bolt. The other bolt might not have been over torqued initially, but it is now. The thing to do is actually re-tighten the one loosen cap bolt to help relieve some tension off the bolt you can't remove.

The allens holding on the cam caps are hardened (hence the black coating), and the likelihood of rounding those out using the proper sized allen with it fully inserted, not twisting the ratchet sideways (in the sense that it makes the allen bit want to walk off of the bolt head) is extremely rare.

However, if it was the last allen bolt you attempted to loosen, with little/no strain left on the other bolts, between all that, and the valve springs pushing up on the cam/cam cap, creating additional tension...yeah. Gonna have a bad day with that.

Retighten all of the other bolts tight and try to loosen it again.

1/4-1/2 turn only when doing any kind of initial bolt loosening on stuff like that, until all bolts are loosened. Always.
I unscrewed them in the order that the manual said to. Its the 3rd to last bolt to come off. It seems like you know your stuff. I really do not know what to do. I am a little worried.
 

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I unscrewed them in the order that the manual said to. Its the 3rd to last bolt to come off. It seems like you know your stuff. I really do not know what to do. I am a little worried.
Like I said, I would slowly (1/2-ish turn at a time) re tighten the other cam cap bolts. Criss cross pattern to sure the cam gets evenly seated in the journals and you don't cause any more collateral damage to other parts. With all the other bolts tight, try to loosen the one boogered bolt. I can't remember off hand - might be worth trying to see if you can find a SAE allen, or even a torx bit, that is slightly larger than the now damaged bolt head. if you can hammer one of those on, it might work to break the bolt loose.

Mechanics 101 - never go straight to extreme measures right off the bat to extract a bolt. Always try to keep the bolt in one piece as much as you can and don't intentionally mar it up any more than needed. Always try to salvage what you have to work with, doing anything else just limits your options that much faster.

It's a pain in the ass to access some of those bolts with the motor still in the frame...hope you have some kind of room to work with. I highly doubt a pipe wrench is going to work, the bolt head isn't nearly big enough to provide enough surface area, nor is there enough room (typically) for access as most of those cam caps (from what I remember) are cut out/recessed a bit anyways. A nice idea in theory, but in practical application, near useless (for this specific scenario), but desperate times call for desperate measures...so if it works, it works.
 

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Like I said, I would slowly (1/2-ish turn at a time) re tighten the other cam cap bolts. Criss cross pattern to sure the cam gets evenly seated in the journals and you don't cause any more collateral damage to other parts. With all the other bolts tight, try to loosen the one boogered bolt. I can't remember off hand - might be worth trying to see if you can find a SAE allen, or even a torx bit, that is slightly larger than the now damaged bolt head. if you can hammer one of those on, it might work to break the bolt loose.

Mechanics 101 - never go straight to extreme measures right off the bat to extract a bolt. Always try to keep the bolt in one piece as much as you can and don't intentionally mar it up any more than needed. Always try to salvage what you have to work with, doing anything else just limits your options that much faster.

It's a pain in the ass to access some of those bolts with the motor still in the frame...hope you have some kind of room to work with. I highly doubt a pipe wrench is going to work, the bolt head isn't nearly big enough to provide enough surface area, nor is there enough room (typically) for access as most of those cam caps (from what I remember) are cut out/recessed a bit anyways. A nice idea in theory, but in practical application, near useless (for this specific scenario), but desperate times call for desperate measures...so if it works, it works.
was able to hammer in a bit and it worked!!!! finally got it out and measured my shims. Really appreciate your responses. I'm going to replace all of these bolts as a lot of them are a little stripped. Would you suggest I get these OEM or just go to a hardware store?
 

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was able to hammer in a bit and it worked!!!! finally got it out and measured my shims. Really appreciate your responses. I'm going to replace all of these bolts as a lot of them are a little stripped. Would you suggest I get these OEM or just go to a hardware store?
OEM all the way! Do not put random hardware inside an engine.

Sent from my ELE-L29 using Tapatalk
 

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was able to hammer in a bit and it worked!!!! finally got it out and measured my shims. Really appreciate your responses. I'm going to replace all of these bolts as a lot of them are a little stripped. Would you suggest I get these OEM or just go to a hardware store?
I have a bunch of OEM camshaft bolts I can mail you. Clutch basket blew up (bolts are fine - don't worry). Say $10 to cover shipping? Let me know.
 
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