[Chase]

My plug that connects the xtor to the rectifier just burnt up and today i found it was crumbling from both the stator and rectifier. Can i just cut it and get butt connectors to make a new plug?

 

[RJ2112]

If the plugs burnt up, odds are good your stator at least partially burnt up, as well. Check, before you just rig a mod.

Plugs melt, because they get full of corrosion. The metal plating on the contacts oxidises, which increases the resistance, which makes it harder for current to flow. If you need the same work, but have more resistance, more current has to flow, as you are now losing power, making that rust in the plugs hot.

A 17 year old bike is likely to have crud in many connectors. Water trapped inside the plastic housings will form batteries wherever dissimilar metals exist in contact with the water. Rain water, & worse yet pressure washers will force water into places the sun don't shine. It will stay there until the connection is opened up, blown out and then treated with dielectric grease to prevent future issues.

 

[Rvaughn2]

Check ricks for a stator reg/rec wiring kit. I’ve had to rewire burnt connectors a lot on Gsxrs.

Aftermarket Motorsport Parts & Kits Superstore - Charging, Starting, Ignition

Aftermarket Motorsport Electrics parts for motorcycles, dirtbikes, atvs, motosport vehicles manufactured and distributed by Rick's Motorsport Electrics

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When changing your charging system it’s best if you swap the stator, reg/rectifier and battery.

 

[Chase]

thing is im on a budget and the stator and rectifier have been running fine with the burnt connectyor sinse i got it so i think its just the conector.

 

[riverszzr]

thing is im on a budget and the stator and rectifier have been running fine with the burnt connectyor sinse i got it so i think its just the conector.

It is never "just the connector"........... but go ahead and replace the connector......... in a few days or a few weeks you will be buying the stator and likely reg/rectifier anyways..........

 

[Chase]

Thanks for all the input guys I really appreciate yall. I'm gonna go ahead and try with just the connector and il just bring a Lil jump pack with me for now that way if it goes and just dies on me I can get it home and order all the replacements I ordered a 12 gauge plug because I heard that the wires coming from the stator to the rectifier are 12 gauge thanks evryone one more thing there are 3 back coming from stator and 3 yellow going from rectifier are they all ac current wires and order doesn't matter or does it I can't tell thanks all

 

[riverszzr]

You could forgo any connector and simply hard solder and shrink wrap each wire to each wire..... but yes, any of the three yellows from the stator can go to any of the three yellows coming out of the reg/rect (you are going to end up throwing all these components away sooner or later anyways)

and yes the stator puts out A/C current and the job of the reg/rect is to convert it to DC volts and shove a bunch of that power to ground when not needed

Did you???
put you voltmeter on AC volts and test the actual AC output of each of those yellow wires coming out of the stator??? rev it up to atleast 4000 to get a more accurate reading, should surely be over 40v, and all 3 should be essentially the same output (within 1 or 2 volts)

I am not sure how your jump box is going to work at being connected to battery to power electrics while you try and drive it home?????? Sure it may well start the bike, but as soon as you unhook the bike will likely die if it is to the point of needing that jump box to start it.....

 

[Chase]

You could forgo any connector and simply hard solder and shrink wrap each wire to each wire..... but yes, any of the three yellows from the stator can go to any of the three yellows coming out of the reg/rect (you are going to end up throwing all these components away sooner or later anyways)

and yes the stator puts out A/C current and the job of the reg/rect is to convert it to DC volts and shove a bunch of that power to ground when not needed

Did you???
put you voltmeter on AC volts and test the actual AC output of each of those yellow wires coming out of the stator??? rev it up to atleast 4000 to get a more accurate reading, should surely be over 40v, and all 3 should be essentially the same output (within 1 or 2 volts)

I am not sure how your jump box is going to work at being connected to battery to power electrics while you try and drive it home?????? Sure it may well start the bike, but as soon as you unhook the bike will likely die if it is to the point of needing that jump box to start it.....

I'm volt reading evrything tomorrow if the stator and rectifier put out the voltage you specified does that mean in working as intended I assume so but I need to ask?

 

[riverszzr]

I'm volt reading evrything tomorrow if the stator and rectifier put out the voltage you specified does that mean in working as intended I assume so but I need to ask?

The ACV reading is only out of the stator 9and if this is bad then the reg/rect cannot be easily tested (40ACV-52ACV from each individual wire/phase when bike is running above 4000rpms)

The DCV reading out of the reg/rect is measured at the battery teminals with bike running (13.9-14.5DCV when bike is running above 4000rpms)

 

[Chase]

The ACV reading is only out of the stator 9and if this is bad then the reg/rect cannot be easily tested (40ACV-52ACV from each individual wire/phase when bike is running above 4000rpms)

The DCV reading out of the reg/rect is measured at the battery teminals with bike running (13.9-14.5DCV when bike is running above 4000rpms)

How do I test the rectifier from the battery since that's what I need to test is the voltage being taken after the rectifier does its thing and that's only after I test the stator. And is how I test the stator positive at muntimeter to wire, negative to a ground?

 

[riverszzr]

How do I test the rectifier from the battery since that's what I need to test is the voltage being taken after the rectifier does its thing and that's only after I test the stator. And is how I test the stator positive at muntimeter to wire, negative to a ground?

Service manula does have a test for the reg/rect with it out of the motorcycle (bench test) but.......... I have had brand new ones test bad and bad ones test good, so I rely on...........

test stator AC output at connector (your burnt up connector)- yes + to one yellow wire and - to ground (battery ground would be perfect)
if that tests good......... then move on to....

Test the battery and make sure it is fully charged and will hold atleast 12.5DCV 24 hrs after it is off the charger (best yet is if you load test it after fully charging with a 100a --sportbike-- battery load tester)--but 12.5DCV is a half charged battery that is the bare bones minimum you should ever have in a stationary battery, 12.8dcv is about the best they get when brand new ---theorhetorically they can be 13.2 (lead acid) .... you will find plenty of lithium ions etc that can be in the 13.4-13.6dcv range days and weeks of just sitting

make sure all your ground connection are clean and tight, and all other connectors in the system are good, clean and tight as well

Then move on to testing the reg/rectifer by simply checking charging system output at the battery........ DC volts with engine running @ 4000rpms+ should be atleast 13.9dcv and not over 14.5dcv....but really it should be around 14.2dcv on a sportbike

 

[RJ2112]

To follow up on the advice above...... Do you really think those two plugs are the only ones that are degraded?

 

[Chase]

To follow up on the advice above...... Do you really think those two plugs are the only ones that are degraded?

i checked over the rest of the harness because the bike has been in peices pretty much and besides the eletrical wrap coming undone thats the only conection thats like horrible all others have been insp;ected tho the greese you tal about wasnt applied.

 

[burke]

What RIVERSZZR and RJ2112 said, Ive experienced both. I have the EXACT same year and model. It's hard to say if which was first problem , the corrosion or dying RR.. but either or both lead to the same thing. I have replaced my RR 3 times and am one my 2nd Alternator. I think everyone who have ever owned or purchased an 03-04 636 has reaplaced the original RR at least once.

What I do know from experience...the RR will start to fail...the wires will start to overheart ..the cooked connectors are the first observed issue. The wires will continue to heart until they turn into nothing, the connector melts to the point of shorting the wires, the RR completely die, one 2 , 3 , all 3 alternator windings burn out..OR ANY COMBINATION OF THESE.

I have caught the connector melting before it got real bad, replaced the RR ant alternator connector and was good for a while till it happened again. this time replaced RR again. closely examined the alternator wires starting at the connector. when I replaced the connector I did it the right way with good qualirty pins, crimped with propper technique and tool.

my mistake was reattch/crimping/new connector to VANRISHED dissintegrating wires. The outsideheat protection and jacket of the wires looked perfect no disscoloration etc. ..it felt VERY rigid starting at connector to about an inch or 2 down the wire from connector at which point the wire was flexible again. I started stripping the jacket back and looking at the wire... it had jst cooked and cooked from the inside..I could snap off the end several times.

bought a USED RR and USED alternator. cut the plugs examined the wires. re-did pins and connectors exactly the same as OEM. then 3 yrs have passed loooooooooooooots on miles daily or weekly it started to melt... cut off Oem connectors stripped back cooked wire, removed excess wire , recrimped with heavy duty large gauge male female connects. heatshinked and isolated from eacj other in such a way the heat could dissapate .. aka no large OEM plastic connectors to hold pins and heat.

no probs since then after 3 yrs.

I feel like maybe the OEM connectors work well for keeping out water and moisture...BUT are not heavy duty enough to tolerate age or ANY slight variation in heat or components.

 

[Chase]

I did exactly what you said big 12 gauge male female connectors on my current rr and stator. If they fail no harm done its not like using them until they break is bad I'm gonna run it for now and see what happens thanks ALl for the I formation and when one or the other dies il be sure to follow your instructions to the tee.

 

[burke]

one other connector you should check is the ignition connector where it mated with the harness. undertank right side.the pins tend to corrode because NOT water tight comes in contack with ar and moisture from the back of both connectors. full 12 volts going thru a couple wires ther 100 percent of the time. these wires will varnish and or corrode too eventually. Thats a fun one to find when bike just stops working and shows zero sgns of life..and it's NOT the sneaky undocumented and whell hidden ignition DIODE.

 

[Chase]

Could you find a picture for me I would love. To find and tKe care of this before it dies hahah

 

[burke]

as long as you did it right..technique and tools ....IF
the connects start to cook again it's the RR or alternator or both dying

 

[burke]

the ignition connector location?

 

[burke]

yup lemme find and post..im still working so gimme at least an hour