Voltage drop after start engine - ZX6R Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 02-02-2019, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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Voltage drop after start engine

Hello guys, Im riding a kawasaki zx6r 09 model. It would be great if all the ninja could help me n my poor baby. Recently i had this problem. Before i start the engine the voltage shows 12.2v and after start it shows 13.8v which i think it is normal but after a long ride i notice my voltage start to drop to 12.9 after i close my throttle.When stopping voltage shows 12.4v - 12.6v. When moving and rpm start to increase the voltage also start to increse. After i notice again the voltage start to drop more until it reach 11.9v when stopping. And now before start engine the voltage shows 12.2v thn after engine is start voltage shows 11.9v. Is it battery problem or the charging system?
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post #2 of 8 Old 02-02-2019, 04:39 PM
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Sounds like the alternator is not putting out as much power as it should..... hard to say for sure, without knowing more about how old the battery is. If the battery is more than 5 years old, it is likely causing a lot of strain on the charging system, because it will not hold as much energy as it did when new.

If you have additional electronics on the bike, that will also cause the charging system to work harder than it is meant to.

You may have dirty or corroded electrical connections --those create resistance, which takes more power to overcome..... straining the charging system.

The diagnostics in the shop manual are pretty comprehensive, for troubleshooting the charging system.

The bike should be able to run, just off the battery for a time...... that means you can start the bike with the alternator disconnected from the regulator/rectifier, and measure the AC Volts coming out of it. Any pair of the three wires from the alternator, should have at LEAST 57 VAC (~ symbol) between them. 75 VAC between all three phases, is a really healthy '09 alternator. You should see maximum AC Voltage, with more than 3K RPM.

If you don't have even values between all three phases, odds are pretty good the alternator is damaged.

If that's okay, you have to move on to the DC side of things, which you have mostly already looked at. This is why I suspect an old battery, first. Pull it out and get it load tested. Replace if need be.
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post #3 of 8 Old 02-06-2019, 01:30 AM
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If the battery is more than 4 years old it almost certainly needs replacing.

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post #4 of 8 Old 02-06-2019, 07:22 PM
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I skimmed over but didn't read every word in this thread. ... but I'd also give the nearest dealer a call and have them run the VIN to see if that bike ever had the reg/rec recall.

Yes... Your charging system is not doing its job. Even a shit battery should ready over 12v when the bike is running.
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post #5 of 8 Old 02-28-2019, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PowerGroove View Post
I skimmed over but didn't read every word in this thread. ... but I'd also give the nearest dealer a call and have them run the VIN to see if that bike ever had the reg/rec recall.

.
I second this. My 09 fell under this, thankfully.

If I were a betting man, I'd say your rectifier is the culprit.

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post #6 of 8 Old 02-28-2019, 07:45 PM
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bad battery IMO

but not enough coherent information to make a diagnosis via the internets



However if you are saying;
while it idles the voltage is low (12.4-12.6v)
while it is not running the voltage is low (11.9-12.2v)
but anytime you have it running and rpms above 4,000 rpms, and you have ~ 13.8ish volts then it most certainly sounds like the battery is the issue not the charging system

but very tough to make sense of your poorly articulated jibberish
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Stupid people say stupid things on the internet, so be wary of who those people are. If you solicit advice on the internet, just keep in mind 99% of what you'll receive is not based on fact or science-and likely atleast 95% of it is based on bullshit and bravado regurgitated from some other schlub who also did not experience any of what they claim and are also full of shit. If you don't like my bluntness- too bad. I am not here to please you, so move along, your approval is not desired nor is it needed. So before opening your pie hole and adding more stupidity, perhaps sit back, listen, absorb and learn something. You know that saying, it is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt!
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post #7 of 8 Old 02-28-2019, 07:46 PM
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double post

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Stupid people say stupid things on the internet, so be wary of who those people are. If you solicit advice on the internet, just keep in mind 99% of what you'll receive is not based on fact or science-and likely atleast 95% of it is based on bullshit and bravado regurgitated from some other schlub who also did not experience any of what they claim and are also full of shit. If you don't like my bluntness- too bad. I am not here to please you, so move along, your approval is not desired nor is it needed. So before opening your pie hole and adding more stupidity, perhaps sit back, listen, absorb and learn something. You know that saying, it is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt!
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post #8 of 8 Old 03-01-2019, 03:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riverszzr View Post
bad battery IMO

but not enough coherent information to make a diagnosis via the internets





but very tough to make sense of your poorly articulated jibberish
After reading it carefully and spending more time than I should've trying to make sense of it, I retract my statement about the rectifier and vote battery too. The first time I read it, I deciphered it as voltage being sporadic in general.

2009 ZX6R- M4 slip on, d3 grips, ASV C5 levers, Dunlop Q3's, Roaring Toyz SS brake lines, Vortex -1/+2 sprocket setup with Speedohealer, Bazzaz z-fi tc w/ AFM, K&N race spec filter, vortex rearsets------SOLD------

2015 ZX6R- Matte Gray/Black, M4 street slayer, TST integrated tail light, TST fender elimination, Power 2CT's, that's all for now.
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