Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Buffalo, NY
I Ride: 2001 zx6r and 2011 zx6r
I just got my race license but as far as what's allowed I'd check the rule book, WERA is another race org that is strict with the safety wire but i think they are more lax on the fairings to some degree. Im rocking the Chinese fairings (I wish i didn't). You might as well just buy the race fairings and put up the oems for sale since they can sell for big bucks over the chinese crap that I usually buy.
First mods in order?
Freebee: Adjust your clip-ons and foot control levers and clutch and brake levers for your personal body. Clip-ons can go back and forth to make your arms more comfortable and the slightest adjustment makes a mile of difference (make sure you mark the spot with a sharpie for OEM position to use as a baseline). Levers should be adjusted up or down and 1-6 adjusted for an easy reach without cramping your wrist. Shift lever and rear brake should be adjusted for comfort and i like to have my boot almost touching the lever for quick shifts. I don't even ride the bike before this now, You will be shocked on how much longer you can ride with some little adjustments for comfort, also it makes you feel at home when on the track.
1) Engine Case saving sliders (do not buy frame sliders unless they are super low profile, the longer ones will flip your bike and you can wave to your machine as it self destructs while it flips). Having your bike and yourself surviving crashes (hopefully you won't anytime soon) will save or break your track time. Track time is precious as you have goals to race. I crashed on cold tires (rode hard to early) and pushing the bike beyond its lean angle (scraping the pegs).
2) Tires, i'd stuck with Q4s, Q3s, and Pirelli supercorsa v2. All have amazing track performance and street legal with decent siping for the street (for better street milage and rain grip i'd lean towards Q3+'s). Q3s took me well beyond into B group/intermediate. I've seen A/expert group use Q3s. Once you start getting quick you will begin to burn up the side of the tire faster than the middle and that's when id start looking at Q4s as the tire is one single uniform compound vs q3+'s harder mid tire grip for milage. ALWAYS give yourself a warm lap or two each session to get the tires warmed up. I'd recommend when you start to look at getting bumped to B group id use warmers just as an garuntee that the tires are hot 'n ready like Little Cesears Pizza.
3) SS lines & Quality Race grade Brake Fluid- If you wanna go fast you gotta know how to brake, you will eventually buy this and rubber lines will degrade (3-5yrs). Might as well get used to the feel of using a bike with proper braking. Don't buy AutoZone fluid, i did. I had loads of brake fade. I have had zero issues with rbf550.
Honestly after that, you should be great shape to get on the track and get the reps in to take yourself to B group after you get your suspension set up for weight. Make sure you study the track and technique. I became far better rider when i was not riding my bike on the street but riding my couch watching technique videos and suspension setup vids.
4) Rearsets, don't buy Chinese/ebay. Go with a name brand in this case like woodcraft, vortex, etc and this will set you back a few hundred. However ever part is replace able and pegs are $19 bucks, so buy an extra and thank yourself later (i'm normally a cheap bastard and go china first then quality later but not with these).
5) If its going to be another track day or suspension. I'd do a track day and kick that stone down the road just a bit longer. Suspension components are well north a grand for a rear or a front cartridge kit. You should have your suspension adjusted to your weight or at least get some patience to do a basic setup. Like everyone said, its worth it. A bike that doesn't fight you on the track is a dream to ride. I'm still sorting out my 2011.
“If a man does not have sauce, then he is lost. But the same man can get lost in the sauce.”