Race Fairings, etc. - ZX6R Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 07-05-2019, 04:47 AM Thread Starter
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Race Fairings, etc.

Looking at building a 19 ZX6R to race (CCS) on occasion, but want to be able to ride on the street as well. Is there an easy way to meet the lower fairing containment requirement? Or, better to just swap out a full fairing for racing, knowing Ill eventually put it down?

On a related note, beyond the mods to meet the legal requirements, what are mods to make the bike a solid bike for learning on track days and occasional race?

Appreciate any tips.
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post #2 of 11 Old 07-05-2019, 06:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PRM View Post
Looking at building a 19 ZX6R to race (CCS) on occasion, but want to be able to ride on the street as well. Is there an easy way to meet the lower fairing containment requirement? Or, better to just swap out a full fairing for racing, knowing Ill eventually put it down?

On a related note, beyond the mods to meet the legal requirements, what are mods to make the bike a solid bike for learning on track days and occasional race?

Appreciate any tips.
Just get race fairings and buy an LED front and rear light that you can detach for track use. I did that for a season until I just stopped using it on the street. Race fairings will crash much nicer, if you're just doing track days you can use stock buy you might end up toasting them at some point.

If you're just starting out then the bike doesn't really need any mods beyond good tires and making sure everything is in working order. These bikes can go out stock and throw down fast lap times. I'm still on stock suspension (sprung for my weight) running Q3+ street tires and am looking to bump into advance group within 1 to 2 track days. The only thing I did was add a nut on the rear shock so I can lift the rear end, if you're not very into mechanics or tinkering I'd suggest just having a professional suspension tech do your work.

I'd suggest spending your money on track days and coaching if you want to get fast. Once you're pushing the bike you'll start finding things that need changed or adjusted...or once you wreck it you can replace it with snazzy aftermarket shit
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post #3 of 11 Old 07-05-2019, 06:59 AM Thread Starter
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Detachable LEDs, Ill look for some of those! Thanks!
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post #4 of 11 Old 07-05-2019, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
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Can anyone recommend a brand for the front lights?

The tail is easy, I can leave it alone for now.
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post #5 of 11 Old 07-09-2019, 11:57 AM
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Something to note...
If you have the stock exhaust with the pre-chamber still installed, if I recall correctly, a race fairing belly pan would not clear it, and would need to be trimmed down... OR you can just get a link pipe + slip-on. lol

Beyond the mods for legal requirements, focus on keeping the bike safe - ie. frame sliders, engine case covers, radiator guard.
I would consider ergonomic mods like rear sets, clip ons, tank grips, etc.
Tires too - but you can scrub down the one you already have on first.

Until you have a stabler foundation of track riding, then I would consider suspension, engine, brakes (personally). Of course, I'm only assuming you're just starting out given your question.
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post #6 of 11 Old 07-09-2019, 01:08 PM
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post #7 of 11 Old 07-10-2019, 03:05 AM
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A proper suspension setup from a race team here in the UK only costs 50, and everyone that gets it done says it's the best 50 you'll ever spend bang for buck (myself included).

That's all I can add really, only just started track riding.
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post #8 of 11 Old 07-12-2019, 02:56 PM
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I just got my race license but as far as what's allowed I'd check the rule book, WERA is another race org that is strict with the safety wire but i think they are more lax on the fairings to some degree. Im rocking the Chinese fairings (I wish i didn't). You might as well just buy the race fairings and put up the oems for sale since they can sell for big bucks over the chinese crap that I usually buy.

First mods in order?

Freebee: Adjust your clip-ons and foot control levers and clutch and brake levers for your personal body. Clip-ons can go back and forth to make your arms more comfortable and the slightest adjustment makes a mile of difference (make sure you mark the spot with a sharpie for OEM position to use as a baseline). Levers should be adjusted up or down and 1-6 adjusted for an easy reach without cramping your wrist. Shift lever and rear brake should be adjusted for comfort and i like to have my boot almost touching the lever for quick shifts. I don't even ride the bike before this now, You will be shocked on how much longer you can ride with some little adjustments for comfort, also it makes you feel at home when on the track.

1) Engine Case saving sliders (do not buy frame sliders unless they are super low profile, the longer ones will flip your bike and you can wave to your machine as it self destructs while it flips). Having your bike and yourself surviving crashes (hopefully you won't anytime soon) will save or break your track time. Track time is precious as you have goals to race. I crashed on cold tires (rode hard to early) and pushing the bike beyond its lean angle (scraping the pegs).

2) Tires, i'd stuck with Q4s, Q3s, and Pirelli supercorsa v2. All have amazing track performance and street legal with decent siping for the street (for better street milage and rain grip i'd lean towards Q3+'s). Q3s took me well beyond into B group/intermediate. I've seen A/expert group use Q3s. Once you start getting quick you will begin to burn up the side of the tire faster than the middle and that's when id start looking at Q4s as the tire is one single uniform compound vs q3+'s harder mid tire grip for milage. ALWAYS give yourself a warm lap or two each session to get the tires warmed up. I'd recommend when you start to look at getting bumped to B group id use warmers just as an garuntee that the tires are hot 'n ready like Little Cesears Pizza.

3) SS lines & Quality Race grade Brake Fluid- If you wanna go fast you gotta know how to brake, you will eventually buy this and rubber lines will degrade (3-5yrs). Might as well get used to the feel of using a bike with proper braking. Don't buy AutoZone fluid, i did. I had loads of brake fade. I have had zero issues with rbf550.

Honestly after that, you should be great shape to get on the track and get the reps in to take yourself to B group after you get your suspension set up for weight. Make sure you study the track and technique. I became far better rider when i was not riding my bike on the street but riding my couch watching technique videos and suspension setup vids.

4) Rearsets, don't buy Chinese/ebay. Go with a name brand in this case like woodcraft, vortex, etc and this will set you back a few hundred. However ever part is replace able and pegs are $19 bucks, so buy an extra and thank yourself later (i'm normally a cheap bastard and go china first then quality later but not with these).

5) If its going to be another track day or suspension. I'd do a track day and kick that stone down the road just a bit longer. Suspension components are well north a grand for a rear or a front cartridge kit. You should have your suspension adjusted to your weight or at least get some patience to do a basic setup. Like everyone said, its worth it. A bike that doesn't fight you on the track is a dream to ride. I'm still sorting out my 2011.
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post #9 of 11 Old 08-19-2019, 01:25 PM
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Tripage led on my track fairings that I use for street use




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post #10 of 11 Old 08-23-2019, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PRM View Post
Looking at building a 19 ZX6R to race (CCS) on occasion, but want to be able to ride on the street as well. Is there an easy way to meet the lower fairing containment requirement? Or, better to just swap out a full fairing for racing, knowing Ill eventually put it down?

On a related note, beyond the mods to meet the legal requirements, what are mods to make the bike a solid bike for learning on track days and occasional race?

Appreciate any tips.
You can't serve two masters. It would be a lot easier to have your race bike, and pickup a cheap second street bike or something. I can't imagine riding my bike on the street! Slicks, no lights, no plate, no registration or insurance, completely different suspension. That would be brutal. I don't think that's a good idea. It's one thing for occasional track days, but a dedicated race bike?

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post #11 of 11 Old 08-23-2019, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leising View Post
I just got my race license but as far as what's allowed I'd check the rule book, WERA is another race org that is strict with the safety wire but i think they are more lax on the fairings to some degree. Im rocking the Chinese fairings (I wish i didn't). You might as well just buy the race fairings and put up the oems for sale since they can sell for big bucks over the chinese crap that I usually buy.

First mods in order?

Freebee: Adjust your clip-ons and foot control levers and clutch and brake levers for your personal body. Clip-ons can go back and forth to make your arms more comfortable and the slightest adjustment makes a mile of difference (make sure you mark the spot with a sharpie for OEM position to use as a baseline). Levers should be adjusted up or down and 1-6 adjusted for an easy reach without cramping your wrist. Shift lever and rear brake should be adjusted for comfort and i like to have my boot almost touching the lever for quick shifts. I don't even ride the bike before this now, You will be shocked on how much longer you can ride with some little adjustments for comfort, also it makes you feel at home when on the track.

1) Engine Case saving sliders (do not buy frame sliders unless they are super low profile, the longer ones will flip your bike and you can wave to your machine as it self destructs while it flips). Having your bike and yourself surviving crashes (hopefully you won't anytime soon) will save or break your track time. Track time is precious as you have goals to race. I crashed on cold tires (rode hard to early) and pushing the bike beyond its lean angle (scraping the pegs).

2) Tires, i'd stuck with Q4s, Q3s, and Pirelli supercorsa v2. All have amazing track performance and street legal with decent siping for the street (for better street milage and rain grip i'd lean towards Q3+'s). Q3s took me well beyond into B group/intermediate. I've seen A/expert group use Q3s. Once you start getting quick you will begin to burn up the side of the tire faster than the middle and that's when id start looking at Q4s as the tire is one single uniform compound vs q3+'s harder mid tire grip for milage. ALWAYS give yourself a warm lap or two each session to get the tires warmed up. I'd recommend when you start to look at getting bumped to B group id use warmers just as an garuntee that the tires are hot 'n ready like Little Cesears Pizza.

3) SS lines & Quality Race grade Brake Fluid- If you wanna go fast you gotta know how to brake, you will eventually buy this and rubber lines will degrade (3-5yrs). Might as well get used to the feel of using a bike with proper braking. Don't buy AutoZone fluid, i did. I had loads of brake fade. I have had zero issues with rbf550.

Honestly after that, you should be great shape to get on the track and get the reps in to take yourself to B group after you get your suspension set up for weight. Make sure you study the track and technique. I became far better rider when i was not riding my bike on the street but riding my couch watching technique videos and suspension setup vids.

4) Rearsets, don't buy Chinese/ebay. Go with a name brand in this case like woodcraft, vortex, etc and this will set you back a few hundred. However ever part is replace able and pegs are $19 bucks, so buy an extra and thank yourself later (i'm normally a cheap bastard and go china first then quality later but not with these).

5) If its going to be another track day or suspension. I'd do a track day and kick that stone down the road just a bit longer. Suspension components are well north a grand for a rear or a front cartridge kit. You should have your suspension adjusted to your weight or at least get some patience to do a basic setup. Like everyone said, its worth it. A bike that doesn't fight you on the track is a dream to ride. I'm still sorting out my 2011.
Good post! Big +1 for MOTUL 600/660. I don't get brake fade with that fluid. Get your suspension setup ASAP! Even just a basic setup and ideally new springs will work WAY better than stock.
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http://www.gawerracing.com
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