Clutch friction plates...what do you suggest? - ZX6R Forum
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post #1 of 18 Old 08-09-2017, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
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Clutch friction plates...what do you suggest?

So shortly after I got my zx6r last year the clutch started slipping pretty bad and I replaced the plates. I know there was a fairly lengthy thread then that I started thinking it was something else. Anyway, I replaced the friction plates with EBC plates. Fast forward about a year and a half almost and now it's starting to slip again. I thought I've heard somewhere that the EBC plates don't last all that long, plus keep in mind that my bike has an STM slipper clutch which slips a lot more than the stock one by design. Super smooth but I know it's harder on the plates.

So does anyone have any experience with other brands? How do the OEM ones stack up? I don't really mind buying a set of plates every 1.5 seasons especially since the EBC's are only like $65 or so at STG. I priced out a set of OEM's at Partzilla and that came out to $85 not including shipping. Any other options? Recommendations?

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post #2 of 18 Old 08-10-2017, 03:15 AM
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I would expect that the consensus would be OEM are more durable. I know that's what is typically recommended in these sorts of threads....

Still on the OEM plates @ 50K, on my 09. Racing is a different usage, and that slipper is obviously accelerating the wear big time.

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post #3 of 18 Old 08-10-2017, 06:34 AM Thread Starter
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Thing that annoys me is that I just changed the oil before...now I have to dump it again

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2013 CBR500R (sold)
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post #4 of 18 Old 08-10-2017, 06:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbk1198 View Post
Thing that annoys me is that I just changed the oil before...now I have to dump it again
Why? You don't have to dump the oil to change the frictions...... Unless it's highly contaminated with the clutch fiber, I can't imagine why it would be necessary -- and if you do have to remove the oil, put it back when you're done....
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post #5 of 18 Old 08-10-2017, 07:59 AM Thread Starter
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Why? You don't have to dump the oil to change the frictions...... Unless it's highly contaminated with the clutch fiber, I can't imagine why it would be necessary -- and if you do have to remove the oil, put it back when you're done....
Because it'll leak all over the place when I open up the clutch cover, unless I lean it over on the left side which I can't really do since I have it on a bike lift. I'll most likely just collect the oil and put it back in when I'm done. That's what I did last year too.

2007 ZZR600 (sold)
2006 CBR600 (sold)
2010 1198 (parted out across North America)
2013 CBR500R (sold)
2009 ZX6R (parted out across North America)
2015 R3 (sold)
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2013 RSV4 (race bike)

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post #6 of 18 Old 08-10-2017, 08:19 AM
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Barnett I haven't used them but when my clutch goes out I planned on using them because I hear good things from them.

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post #7 of 18 Old 08-10-2017, 09:57 AM
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Vesrah makes a lot of the OEM brake pads and clutch fibers. Maybe you can test that

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Vesrah VC-493 Clutch Disc Set | eBay
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post #8 of 18 Old 08-10-2017, 09:57 AM
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OEM clutches are the only way to go. I've found Partzilla is cheaper than Ron Ayers.

I bought my R6 as a street bike with 900 miles on it. I sold it with 8,000 miles, and put a new OEM clutch in right before I sold it as it started to slip on hard launches. So 7,000 miles of track and race miles. Not shabby.

Chasing what would eventually be a transmission problem, I changed out the clutch in my ZX6. It had almost 17,000 miles on it.

OEM...only way to go
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Last edited by Otto Man; 08-10-2017 at 10:02 AM.
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post #9 of 18 Old 08-10-2017, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Vesrah makes a lot of the OEM brake pads and clutch fibers. Maybe you can test that

Catalog

Vesrah VC-493 Clutch Disc Set | eBay
Tempting...just for the sake of trying something new. Although sounds like OEM is probably the best option even if it will cost me 20 bucks more. I guess if they last even 50% longer it's worth it. I think I put about 1500 miles at most since I changed the plates last time.

2007 ZZR600 (sold)
2006 CBR600 (sold)
2010 1198 (parted out across North America)
2013 CBR500R (sold)
2009 ZX6R (parted out across North America)
2015 R3 (sold)
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2013 RSV4 (race bike)

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post #10 of 18 Old 08-10-2017, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Felixthecat View Post
Barnett I haven't used them but when my clutch goes out I planned on using them because I hear good things from them.
I have too but they're usually a lot more expensive.

2007 ZZR600 (sold)
2006 CBR600 (sold)
2010 1198 (parted out across North America)
2013 CBR500R (sold)
2009 ZX6R (parted out across North America)
2015 R3 (sold)
2018 Ninja 400 (race bike)
2013 RSV4 (race bike)

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post #11 of 18 Old 08-10-2017, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbk1198 View Post
I have too but they're usually a lot more expensive.
Just for the plates?? I always see them as a kit for like $160 it's plates and springs I believe. Is your setup different since it's aftermarket??

2012 Ninja ZX6R
Ohlins TTX MKII Rear Shock - Ohlins Steering Dampener - Yoshimura Carbon Fiber R77 Full System - Power Commander 5 tuned to 121rwhp - Schnitz ECU Flash - Zero Gravity Corsa Windscreen - Vortex Clip Ons - Core Moto SS Brakelines - Armour Bodies Track Fairings - Motion Pro Quick Turn Throttle - Woodcraft Case Savers LHS, RHS, Timing Cover - Driven Block Off Plates - Driven Gas Cap - Driven Sprockets and Sprocket Nuts - Servo Buddy - Ballistic 8-Cell Li Battery - SpeedoDRD

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post #12 of 18 Old 08-10-2017, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Felixthecat View Post
Just for the plates?? I always see them as a kit for like $160 it's plates and springs I believe. Is your setup different since it's aftermarket??
Right, that's expensive when EBC's are like $65 and OEM's like $85 lol

I don't need the springs, just the plates.

2007 ZZR600 (sold)
2006 CBR600 (sold)
2010 1198 (parted out across North America)
2013 CBR500R (sold)
2009 ZX6R (parted out across North America)
2015 R3 (sold)
2018 Ninja 400 (race bike)
2013 RSV4 (race bike)

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post #13 of 18 Old 09-04-2017, 04:58 PM Thread Starter
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So I finally replaced my friction plates after procrastinating for a few weeks, but to my surprise, all the friction plates were within spec, right in the middle of the range listed in the service manual. A few of them looked somewhat worn out, but as far as thickness goes, they were technically still good.

I won't be able to test out the bike until Saturday when I'm going to the track, but is it possible to have the clutch slipping with plates still in spec for thickness?? Keep in mind, I hadn't changed anything before, all was well for about one and a half seasons and the symptoms I got last time were exactly the same as early last year when I had to replace my plates because they were pretty worn out. I'm a bit concerned that this wasn't the problem maybe, and it will still slip when I get up to 4th-5th gear this weekend.

I did not measure the steel plates since I know last time they were in spec and it takes a lot to wear out steel plates, so I didn't even buy any new ones. There were a couple of them though that had some spots on them of blueish color. Not much, just a few spots ranging from around 5-10 mm. I hadn't seen that before on clutch plates. Is it possible that the surface finish changed and they're way too smooth now causing the clutch to slip a bit?

2007 ZZR600 (sold)
2006 CBR600 (sold)
2010 1198 (parted out across North America)
2013 CBR500R (sold)
2009 ZX6R (parted out across North America)
2015 R3 (sold)
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2013 RSV4 (race bike)

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post #14 of 18 Old 09-04-2017, 05:21 PM
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More likely to be warped..... flatness is critical.

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post #15 of 18 Old 09-04-2017, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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More likely to be warped..... flatness is critical.
Hmm...didn't check for that. Don't really have a good way to do it anyway.

2007 ZZR600 (sold)
2006 CBR600 (sold)
2010 1198 (parted out across North America)
2013 CBR500R (sold)
2009 ZX6R (parted out across North America)
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2018 Ninja 400 (race bike)
2013 RSV4 (race bike)

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