ZX-6R fork rebound adjustment problems - ZX6R Forum
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post #1 of 12 Old 02-22-2015, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
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ZX-6R fork rebound adjuster problems

hey, i ride a 2007 zx6r, currently adjusting the fork rebound after i recently had my fork seals done. In the manual it says the rebound adjustment on the forks should be able to turn in 3 1/2 turns. my left fork rebound adjuster will only go in 2 1/2 turns before it starts to get hard to turn, and have a binding feel. what do you think is wrong? my right fork is fine. Need some advice. thanks

Last edited by ZX6Rfast; 02-22-2015 at 03:45 PM.
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post #2 of 12 Old 02-23-2015, 06:40 AM
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The rebound adjuster was probably set incorrectly when the fork was reassembled. They have to be preset before reassembly or you can have issues like this.

Set the distance between the upper end [A] of the spring
preload adjuster [B] and rebound damping adjuster [C].
1.5 mm (0.059 in.) [D]

That's the section in the manual that covers it. It's in the fork oil change section.

That is the most likely cause.
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post #3 of 12 Old 03-18-2015, 06:30 PM
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I'm having the same damn problem, I'm so pissed at myself for not checking the rebound adjustment range before fully reassembling the forks and fitting back into the bike.

On the other hand, I have the RHS fork leaking a little after fitting with All Balls seals. I'll be pulling everything apart this weekend to replace with OEM seals so I can check the adjustment then.

I read somewhere that the damping rod locknut needs to be 13mm from the top of the threaded section, and that the rebound adjuster should be backed out enough to allow the adjuster rod to fit 13mm into the top cartridge. I.e., the adjuster rod sits flush with the top of the damping rod and so does the cartridge.

Can anyone confirm this, I didn't see this mentioned in the Haynes manual?

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post #4 of 12 Old 03-20-2015, 07:26 PM
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With the fork cap removed from the fork, turn the rebound adjuster all the way out.
Turn the locking nut all the way down on the damper rod.
By hand spin the fork cap down on the damper rod until it bottoms out on the rod (just finger tight).
Turn the locking nut up to the fork cap and torque the nut (not the cap).
You will now have equal adjustment on left and right fork cap.
Remember the adjustment on rebound is done by turning the adjuster full in and then backing it out. The reference point is from full in. i.e. rebound adjuster setting is 3/4 of a turn out from full in. Hope that helps.
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post #5 of 12 Old 03-20-2015, 07:36 PM
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Yep, just went through this when a shop jacked up my fork caps. It's all in the cap lock nut. Also, SloMotion, try a seal mate or a playing card in those fork seals before you rip it all back down. I too had this issue once and there ended up being some dirt from somewhere in one of my seals during the rebuild. Dried right up after a few miles and it's still holding strong. All balls aren't as good as OEM, but I would try that first and just go OEM when those fail. You can get good life out of them.
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post #6 of 12 Old 03-20-2015, 10:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 66proof View Post
With the fork cap removed from the fork, turn the rebound adjuster all the way out.
Turn the locking nut all the way down on the damper rod.
By hand spin the fork cap down on the damper rod until it bottoms out on the rod (just finger tight).
Turn the locking nut up to the fork cap and torque the nut (not the cap).
You will now have equal adjustment on left and right fork cap.
Remember the adjustment on rebound is done by turning the adjuster full in and then backing it out. The reference point is from full in. i.e. rebound adjuster setting is 3/4 of a turn out from full in. Hope that helps.
Wouldn't this net zero adjustability?

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post #7 of 12 Old 03-21-2015, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 40acres View Post
Yep, just went through this when a shop jacked up my fork caps. It's all in the cap lock nut. Also, SloMotion, try a seal mate or a playing card in those fork seals before you rip it all back down. I too had this issue once and there ended up being some dirt from somewhere in one of my seals during the rebuild. Dried right up after a few miles and it's still holding strong. All balls aren't as good as OEM, but I would try that first and just go OEM when those fail. You can get good life out of them.
I had to take them apart today anyways due to the adjustability issue with rebound mentioned above. As I got it apart, I looked at that specific seal and found this....

ZX-6R fork rebound adjustment problems-uploadfromtaptalk1426990798658.jpg
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post #8 of 12 Old 03-21-2015, 08:45 PM
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A little trick I use all the time is put the plastic bag over the tube, put some oil on it and slide the seal on over the plastic that way it wont catch on the inner lip. Definitely go with stock or K&L seals.

Last edited by moto82199; 03-21-2015 at 08:50 PM.
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post #9 of 12 Old 03-22-2015, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by moto82199 View Post
A little trick I use all the time is put the plastic bag over the tube, put some oil on it and slide the seal on over the plastic that way it wont catch on the inner lip. Definitely go with stock or K&L seals.
I'll have to give that a shot....I'm assuming by 'little bag' you mean the bag the OEM parts come in right?

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post #10 of 12 Old 03-22-2015, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSloMoShow View Post
I'll have to give that a shot....I'm assuming by 'little bag' you mean the bag the OEM parts come in right?
He's talking about this type of idea....its called a fork seal bullet..the purpose for this is that when you slide the new fork oil seal over the tube it doesn't get cut or ripped.

You can use a homemade version as mentioned above...........or perhaps use one of those condoms you have lying around
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post #11 of 12 Old 03-24-2015, 11:57 AM
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Yes the plastic bag that the seals came in...
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post #12 of 12 Old 03-30-2015, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by moto82199 View Post
Yes the plastic bag that the seals came in...
Replaced them this past weekend, everything went without a hitch using the method above.

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