Stator or alternator? - ZX6R Forum
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post #1 of 10 Old 09-02-2013, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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Stator or alternator?

So I recently went down at Streets of Willow 2 months ago and had my bike fixed or so I thought. Everything was working fine, until after lap 2 my electrical went down. After doing a few tests, my battery was out and I had to use a tender and charge in between sessions to ride. I've heard of other people having similar issues after a crash, and I do not believe it is the battery, but most likely the stator because it's not holding the charge or recharging? When I used a voltage meter on the battery after the bike was running, it read a 12.3, and it should be around 14.3.

How do I check to see if my stator has gone bad or my alternator because I'm sure it's one or the other.

Thanks,
Joe
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post #2 of 10 Old 09-02-2013, 11:11 AM
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Well for starters your bike doesn't have an alternator, it has a rectifier. There are tests for both in the manual for ohm'ing them. but a quick test is to test the voltage at idle then bump the rpms up to,I want to say 4k, kinda drawing a blank at the moment. it voltage doesn't jump up to I think 14.3 or so then one of the 2 are bad, stator or rectifier. If it does jump then replace the battery because its not accepting a charge
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post #3 of 10 Old 09-02-2013, 01:27 PM
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FWIW,

The stator is part of the alternator.... the rotor and stator are the two elements that make up the alternator. The rotating part, and the static windings that take the lines of force (field) and push electrons loose (current) as a result.

That alternating current is then passed to the rectifier, which makes it into direct current, by only allowing all the currents to flow in one direction.

The DC voltage that results is actually higher than the battery can accept, so it is regulated to prevent the voltage from going so high as to damage the battery. Consider the regulator as a relief valve to limit max pressure.

OP, Reading the manual it says the magnetism of the rotor can be damaged by a sharp blow.... I'd guess it's possible your rotor is kaput; but I'd still look at the stator first. Going into the charging system far enough to inspect one part will be far enough to look at both.
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post #4 of 10 Old 09-07-2013, 05:38 AM
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Your charging system is kaput. As already stated, it could be: Fixed magnet/rotor (they don't like sharp impacts, like being dropped. It weakens them which means a weak charging system), Stator, or rectifier/voltage regulator assembly.

To diagnose which, pull off what you need to in order to expose the plug coming out of the generator cover. There will be three wires. Test the resistance between each with a multimeter. You should have in the neighbourhood of 0.35 ohms between each. Also check resistance between the chassis ground and each of the three wires. It should be infinite. If any reading differs significantly from the other two, or conducts to ground, your stator is bad. If the alternator is putting out significantly less than 40 Volts AC (@ 4,000 rpm) for each phase of the alternator and the stator resistances are good, you most likely have a weak magnet/rotor. If both rotor and stator check out and open circuit voltage is good, you most likely have a bad rectifier/regulator assembly.

These values are approximate, each bike may well differ slightly. However, each phase of the alternator should be similar to the other two. If not, there is cause for suspicion... Also, it should go without saying, but check all connections between the stator windings, rectifier/regulator and battery before replacing or testing anything else.

Last edited by Dennymambo; 09-07-2013 at 05:40 AM. Reason: Bad memory...
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post #5 of 10 Old 09-07-2013, 06:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldhead View Post
Well for starters your bike doesn't have an alternator, it has a rectifier.


I think people get misconceptions about these bikes because other people talk about the wrong part or use the wrong terminology.
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post #6 of 10 Old 10-10-2013, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
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So, I replaced my rectifier with an OEM one because the warranty covered it, but now I have a problem. I started her up and it was running fine, but now it bogs and dies when under 2k rpms. I know it's not the idle because I had it on for about 10 minutes. I wasn't able to use a multimeter, but could it be the stator now? I'm gonna try to ride it around for 20 minutes and take the battery to get tested.
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post #7 of 10 Old 10-10-2013, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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So i took it out for a ride again and the same issue. I don't feel a loss in power like before, but rather when it goes below 2k rpms, it just dies. I'm leaning towards my bike running rich or something with the air to fuel ratio that might have been messed up from the accident?
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post #8 of 10 Old 10-11-2013, 03:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j6shin View Post
So i took it out for a ride again and the same issue. I don't feel a loss in power like before, but rather when it goes below 2k rpms, it just dies. I'm leaning towards my bike running rich or something with the air to fuel ratio that might have been messed up from the accident?
You need to find out if the battery is charging. A cheap multi meter can be bought for less than $20. Digital Multimeter - 10709: Electrical : Walmart.com

If the bike runs and starts without having to recharge the battery, odds are it's getting charged. When you had the regulator/rectifier replaced under warranty, that should take care of almost all possibilities for faults there.

What do you have your idle speed set to?
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post #9 of 10 Old 10-11-2013, 05:25 AM
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My CBR has been having major electrical/charging problems.

So far, i have replaced the battery twice, the stator coils, the reg/rec in the last 2 months.

Still have probs with it running, I found it bogging down after struggling to start, my solution so far has been to stop at the side of the road, turn the bike off, open the fuel cap, start it with the cap open, then shut the cap. Which I admit, is much easier with a spare key, but does seem to solve the bogging-down issue!

If the cap makes a popping when you open it, or you struggle to open it at all, you might find that there is a blockage somewhere and a vacuum is being created inside the tank.

HTH
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post #10 of 10 Old 10-11-2013, 08:16 AM
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btw, the charging system will not produce enough power to charge at idle, it has to get up to around 4k rpm to do that.
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