The oil thread!! - ZX6R Forum
View Poll Results: What oil company do you choose ?
motul 300v 43 17.34%
mobile 1 71 28.63%
Amsoil 46 18.55%
Royal purple 18 7.26%
Shell 21 8.47%
Kawasaki 16 6.45%
Other (name yours) 33 13.31%
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post #1 of 1119 Old 01-16-2009, 09:10 AM Thread Starter
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The oil thread!!

Hi All,

As this is the 1st time I am attempting an oil change on my 06 636 I was wondering how much oil to put in?

bikes got 12k'ish miles on it and gear shifts are getting a bit sticky. I have the oil, filter and new sump washer... so I recon its time for it, and I want to do more service type stuff anyways.... save some ££'s.

I cant find my owners manual either for some reason, think the rats ate it!! Anyways any help would be appreciated.

I have worked on cars in the past so not a total nube, just dont want to cock it up.... for obvious reasons.

ttfn,
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post #2 of 1119 Old 01-16-2009, 09:56 AM
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I believe it holds 4 qts even, with the filter change. But put in about 3 1/2 and run it, let it drain back into the pan (atleast 10 minutes) then check the oil level (bike on both tires and level)
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post #3 of 1119 Old 01-16-2009, 12:24 PM
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you can buy a gallon of oil here in the US which is 3.78 quarts. it's a perfect amount for our bike. pour the whole gallon in if you can find it over there. i use rotella 5w40, but you can use what you like.

s.e. 636 sliders, smoke flush signals, tail light & db, -1/+2, v4, jumper mod, skidmarx hugger, akra slip

red zx14 muzzy carbon slips, pc 111, bmc, ivan's map, no flies, tre 006a, ignition advance, puig db, chrome wheels, chrome kickplates, matching lowers, zx10 fender, whistler radar, foam grips, throttlemeister, heli risers
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post #4 of 1119 Old 01-16-2009, 01:07 PM
 
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my 06 says right on the case 3.9 so i just dump the 4 quarts i use mobil 1 10w 40 syn oil i like and its a good brand but pricey its like $10 a quart
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post #5 of 1119 Old 01-16-2009, 01:39 PM
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You can't fill it with a set quantity. Do what Rivers said.

You use the sight glass to set the level. If it's the same as every bike I've ever owned, run it for a while, stop it. With the bike level, check the site glass after 1 minute and then adjust.

After a while the level will be a little over the full mark, but the manual (my manual) doesn't say to check it later, it says about a minute.

The quantity cast onto the case doesn't say whether it included a filter change or not, it doesn't say if it's a refill after a drain or a fill after a rebuild etc.

Fill the filter before fitting it, the engine will spend less time running dry that way. It's take two goes at it. Fill it, wait a while for it to soak through the element then fill it again.

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post #6 of 1119 Old 01-16-2009, 01:56 PM
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that is the best way, but i'm lazy and it goes to the middle of the site glass w/ 1 gal. and new filter.

you don't lose oil when you turn the oil filled filter over to put it on the bike?

s.e. 636 sliders, smoke flush signals, tail light & db, -1/+2, v4, jumper mod, skidmarx hugger, akra slip

red zx14 muzzy carbon slips, pc 111, bmc, ivan's map, no flies, tre 006a, ignition advance, puig db, chrome wheels, chrome kickplates, matching lowers, zx10 fender, whistler radar, foam grips, throttlemeister, heli risers
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post #7 of 1119 Old 01-16-2009, 04:21 PM
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what i do is buy a gallon of the blue jug rotella synthetic 5w40 & oil filter and it puts it right at the full mark after i change it out
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post #8 of 1119 Old 01-17-2009, 03:07 AM
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I Ride: Cafe Racer, Commuter, a Dirty one, and a Land Speed Racer.
I buy Royal Purple 10W40 motorcycle oil 2 cases at a time...because I know i'll use it all and because I have a guy that can cut me a pretty decent deal on the "bulk" order, and because my 636 gets a bit crunchy in the tranny (mmmm, trannys) between oil changes and this symptom responds well to the synthetic yummmies...but ANYWAY My owners manual says 3.6 if I recall correctly... I usually go about 3 and a half, run it, let it trickle back down, then see where it's at and top off if needed. I try to run it just a bit below the top line: More oil means more cooling capacity, plus you'll burn off a bit between oil changes so running it towards the "fuller" limit makes sure you won't run the bike low.

PS: pui, just 4tr...

Even MORE PS: Make sure you put a bit of oil into the filter to prevent pushing a bubble through the system, and drain your old oil while hot. I usually go for about a 20 minute ride around town, just to get the temp up. Helps get all the skank out of your crank case (mmm, skank). I know filling the filter is a bit tough since it mounts sideways...but the anti-drain back valve helps with that. You can't get much in there w/out it pouring out, but every little bit helps.
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post #9 of 1119 Old 01-17-2009, 04:41 AM
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Can I suggest using a filter key rather than a wrench, there's less chance of squashing the filter and causing damage, plus if you're super pedantic you can use a torque wrench cos the key will slot into it.

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post #10 of 1119 Old 01-17-2009, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reevesmreeve View Post
you can buy a gallon of oil here in the US which is 3.78 quarts. it's a perfect amount for our bike. pour the whole gallon in if you can find it over there. i use rotella 5w40, but you can use what you like.
Not to bust your balls, but a gallon is equal to 4 qts, regardless of where you are...maybe you meant a gallon is equal to 3.78 liters....
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post #11 of 1119 Old 01-17-2009, 11:15 AM
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i use motul 15w50 semisynthetic and runs great for me
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post #12 of 1119 Old 01-17-2009, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riverszzr View Post
Not to bust your balls, but a gallon is equal to 4 qts, regardless of where you are...maybe you meant a gallon is equal to 3.78 liters....
that's exactly what i meant

768 ryda know what i'm talkin' about

s.e. 636 sliders, smoke flush signals, tail light & db, -1/+2, v4, jumper mod, skidmarx hugger, akra slip

red zx14 muzzy carbon slips, pc 111, bmc, ivan's map, no flies, tre 006a, ignition advance, puig db, chrome wheels, chrome kickplates, matching lowers, zx10 fender, whistler radar, foam grips, throttlemeister, heli risers
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post #13 of 1119 Old 01-17-2009, 05:41 PM
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I just always run the bike get her warm shut her down drain the oil and remove the filter. Fill the filter half way then i add the correct amount which is usually next to the window ? get the level to around half way on the window ( with the sump plug in ha ha ) run her for 2 mins and add as required . Always worked for me
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post #14 of 1119 Old 01-17-2009, 09:31 PM
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My bike is also due an oil change, and I want to attempt it myself. Seems pretty straightforward.

One thing though... I don't have a torque wrench. I was looking in the Haynes manual and it says when doing an oil change to tighten up the bolt with a torque wrench to the correct figure. Do you guys all use a torque wrench or is it okay to tighten it normally until it feels properly tightened? I don't want to do anything stupid, so thought I would ask here. I'm guessing I am going to have to buy myself a torque wrench?
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post #15 of 1119 Old 01-18-2009, 10:15 AM
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Don't over torque it and pull out the aluminum threads in the oil pan !!!!!! But no, I don't use a torque wrench on the drain plug or the filter....It's a "feel" thing..
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