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-   -   Mores problems, clutch, shifter, and starting issues, HELP! (https://www.zx6r.com/mechanical-technical/22078-mores-problems-clutch-shifter-starting-issues-help.html)

Steel 01-16-2012 09:47 PM

Mores problems, clutch, shifter, and starting issues, HELP!
 
2004 ZX6RR after a fairly bad crash and flip.

So I wrecked my bike, and besides the brake issues I'm having I just started to have another problem with it, I'll try to describe everything that happened in case I missed an important detail that you'll catch, cliffs at bottom.

In the wreck, I snapped off the shifter bracket that connects to the frame, and bent the bar that goes underneath your foot and eventually leads to shift gears. At this point I could use my hand to grab the exposed knob to shift gears freely, it easily went from 3rd or 4th gear down to first and into neutral. I could start the bike, and started the bike probably 15 times over the course of the last couple months, and let it warm up most of the time and charge the battery, I had no problems doing this.

Fast forward till last month, I was getting antsy and wanted to see if the rear wheel was bent or not, so I started her up and let it warm up, and forgetting that the kickstand was down I held the clutch in and shifted into first and the cutout kicked in and shut it off. Not wanting to drop the bike trying to do all this while holding the bike, I didn't try again. At this point the the bike became almost impossible to roll, even with the clutch in, I thought it was a bad front bearing (made no sense that it would just go back in instantly), but am now realizing that I'm having issues with the drive train.

I got the bolt to mount the shifter on (finally) and did my best to put properly put it on, and afterwards I decided to take the bike out through my neighborhood to test the rear wheel again. I put my key in (bent in multiple places and barely fits, not sure if it matters) and tried to shift to neutral but couldn't get the bike into first. (My MSF instructor told me not to trust the light, and always to shift into first and then half shift up into neutral) I remembered when I had issues in the MSF class getting into neutral after a few tries to roll the bike forward and try again, finally I got it into neutral, and the bike now rolled freely (so the front bearing isn't bad). Excited with the news that I don't have to replace the bearing, I put the kickstand up, set the killswitch to start, clutched in, and hit the starter button.

There was a slight whine, then furious clicking from the (I assume) starter motor. Dumbfounded, I checked to make sure everything was proper, I shifted into first (took plenty of tries AGAIN), and then into neutral, I let the clutch out and rolled the bike to make sure I was in neutral, then clutched in, checked my buttons, and hit the starter button. Whining and clicking ensued. I tried it again and held the button slightly longer, and was greeted by the light on my dash for the turn signals flashing, and my horn beeping.

I started to play around a bit changing things, when I realized I had another problem. After many tries I shifted into first, and clutched in and tried to roll the bike, and it wouldn't move, the clutch wasn't disengaging. The other wierd thing, was then when I tried to roll the bike while in gear, after the wheels turned 1/4 inch, the electronics reset like I just turned the key off and on. I can only feel that somehow, all of this is interconnected, but I'm missing what's going on here.

Cliffs:
-Crashed and shifter broke off
-Bike started fine, then I shifted into first with the kickstand down, and problems ensued.
-Clutch doesn't appear to disengage when clutch lever is pulled
-Shifting into any gear or neutral is exceedingly difficult
-Any attempt to start the bike doesn't work, the starter clicks as if it has a low battery, and then the horn sounds and the light for the blinkers goes off
-I don't think the battery is low, but I suppose it could be one of the issues going on.

Help...I'm a newbie on working on bikes

whocanitBnow 01-16-2012 10:43 PM

-- Stop trying to roll the bike while in gear (even with the clutch in, there's too much friction to roll freely). Put it in neutral when you want to roll it.

-- Put the rear up on stands.....even if it was running, you'd have a hard time trying to see if the rear wheel is bent while riding.

-- If I'm not mistaken, just idleing won't do much in charging the battery. Get a battery tender and charge it up.....or do like I do and jump it with your car <---- yeah, yeah.... I'm old school, I'll do whatever it takes so don't even go there preaching to me about how I shouldn't do that :-). The fast clicking is most likely from too weak of a battery to start the bike. In many cases, even if the battery is enough to crank the engine, if it's not fully charged, it won't fire up the engine.

-- Sit on the bike and rock it back and forth to try and get it in different gears.

-- As for your lights and horn going off.... IDK.

Just my 2 cents....anyone? anyone?

whocanitBnow 01-16-2012 11:52 PM

If you don't have a rear wheel stand but want to check your rim for any bent places, you can try this if you have a floor jack (again....old school). I recommend having someone to help you (in most cases, they don't have to do anything, just there for "just in case).

-- put the bike in neutral and on the kickstand.

-- apply the front brakes and use tape or rubberbands, or whatever to keep it in the applied position so that the front wheel can't roll.

-- have your helper straddle the front wheel and hold the handle bars for the next step.

-- take the floor jack and place it underneath the right (opposite kickstand side) rear swing arm. Use a towel or something so you don't scratch the arm.

-- SLOWLY jack up the swing arm just until the rear wheel can spin freely by hand.

-- find a stick (pencil or whatever) and tape it to the swing arm up towards where your right foot would be and as close to the lip of the rim as possible.

-- now slowly rotate the wheel and see if the gap between the rim and stick changes at all.

-- repeat stick test on left side of rim.

Steel 01-16-2012 11:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whocanitBnow (Post 297520)
If you don't have a rear wheel stand but want to check your rim for any bent places, you can try this if you have a floor jack (again....old school). I recommend having someone to help you (in most cases, they don't have to do anything, just there for "just in case).

-- put the bike in neutral and on the kickstand.

-- apply the front brakes and use tape or rubberbands, or whatever to keep it in the applied position so that the front wheel can't roll.

-- have your helper straddle the front wheel and hold the handle bars for the next step.

-- take the floor jack and place it underneath the right (opposite kickstand side) rear swing arm. Use a towel or something so you don't scratch the arm.

-- SLOWLY jack up the swing arm just until the rear wheel can spin freely by hand.

-- find a stick (pencil or whatever) and tape it to the swing arm up towards where your right foot would be and as close to the lip of the rim as possible.

-- now slowly rotate the wheel and see if the gap between the rim and stick changes at all.

-- repeat stick test on left side of rim.

The entire time I was reading this, I was laughing because I can picture 5 people I know who would have told me the same thing. I'm just going to order some stands on amazon, that student account for free 2 day shipping is just too good to pass up. Now only if I could get ANY dealership to match it I'd be set.

Thanks for the help, I'll jump the battery next time I'm with my bike, I shouldn't assume anything on bikes is similar to how it works on cars.

Any idea about the clutch level not disengaging the clutch?

whocanitBnow 01-17-2012 12:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steel (Post 297528)
Thanks for the help, I'll jump the battery next time I'm with my bike, I shouldn't assume anything on bikes is similar to how it works on cars.

Any idea about the clutch level not disengaging the clutch?

-- I've been jump starting bikes with cars for as long as I can remember. Connect the jumper cables with the car NOT running and see if it works first.

-- Most likely, the lever IS disengaging the clutch, but it's just the way the clutch basket / friction plates / steel plates are designed.


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