2013-2014 stator information - ZX6R Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 01-09-2020, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
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2013-2014 stator information

I've searched the service manual for it and have been unable to find it. Has anyone on here discovered or tested what the stator output current(or wattage) should be? As well as the output charging current(or wattage) of the rectifier? Or if anyone knows the ratio of the rectifier that would be of great help as well.
I am just at work right now and am unable to hook a fluke to the bike.

The formula needed for this is I(current) = V (voltage)/R (resistance)
The more miles the engine has the more cycles the magnetic fields have cycled and thus weakened, thus resulting in a lower power output on a "aging" stator.
Result, Not everyone's stator output will be exactly the same.


Clarifications: The stator generates the AC voltage (>46.4vac for proper functionality) and the rectifier then changes that voltage to DC (14.3-14.7V for proper functionality). Stator coil resistances should be between .11-.17 Ohm

Reference: Charging system 16-35/16-36 pg 519 & 520 in the service manual.

Last edited by Mr Jurassic; 01-09-2020 at 03:36 PM.
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post #2 of 8 Old 01-10-2020, 09:47 AM
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I have tested numerous regulator/rectifiers and even some good ones test bad and even some bad ones have tested good.......

So the test I rely on for those now;
if the stator is working properly, the wiring is good, the battery is good yet the charging sytem still doesn't work properly- put in a new regulator/rectifier

Stator is super easy to check, but you can actually just loook at them and tell if they work or not
battery is super easy to test as well, but even easier if you have a good charger and a load tester
wiring is far more difficult and time consuming as you need to remove a bunch of shit to access it readily
reg/rect suck to test and the tests are often inconclusive or wrong- so don't even both IMO.....

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Stupid people say stupid things on the internet, so be wary of who those people are. If you solicit advice on the internet, just keep in mind 99% of what you'll receive is not based on fact or science-and likely atleast 95% of it is based on bullshit and bravado regurgitated from some other schlub who also did not experience any of what they claim and are also full of shit. If you don't like my bluntness- too bad. I am not here to please you, so move along, your approval is not desired nor is it needed. So before opening your pie hole and adding more stupidity, perhaps sit back, listen, absorb and learn something. You know that saying, it is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt!
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post #3 of 8 Old 01-10-2020, 11:21 AM
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The conversion from AC to DC is about .707 of the peak AC value. If you have 40 VAC, you'll get to a DC equivalent of about 30 VDC.

You can't do a straight conversion from AC to DC without some loss due to passing through directional gates... the full wave bridge rectifier that makes the conversion from Alternating Current to Direct Current has a small region that it is neither fully on or fully off. Silicon transistors, there's about 0.7 V of biasing voltage that has to be overcome before the device conducts.

Power supplies are measured in overall efficiency.... a typical AC-DC converter used in almost every cheap power wart is on the order of 98% efficient. Probably 95%+ of all power supplies in the world today are that efficient.

The heating of the rectifier, and the regulation circuit have a detrimental effect on solid state electronics. Solid state devices suffer from having an inverse temperature coefficient..... the hotter they get, the less resistance they have. When they try and stop the greater current flow that occurs because of that lower resistance, it generates even more heat. 'Thermal runaway' is the term used to describe that snowballing effect as things go to heck.

As Lloyd is saying, using a multimeter to check out how healthy the R/R is, has a number of problems. The further gone the part is, the more drastic the breakdown becomes, until it becomes permanent. The parameters that change due to heating are tough to spot, when the part is cold.

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post #4 of 8 Old 01-11-2020, 06:51 AM Thread Starter
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Does anyone that you guys know of make a high power output stator?

What i am specifically trying to figure is the output wattage of the stock stator to determine my current loading. Or find a aftermarket stator that has a known output wattage that i can then do my loading calcs to ensure the electronic load is no factor

Last edited by Mr Jurassic; 01-11-2020 at 07:01 AM.
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post #5 of 8 Old 01-11-2020, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Jurassic View Post
Does anyone that you guys know of make a high power output stator?

What i am specifically trying to figure is the output wattage of the stock stator to determine my current loading. Or find a aftermarket stator that has a known output wattage that i can then do my loading calcs to ensure the electronic load is no factor
you can measure the output of the oe stator, you can also calcultate how much useage you are using with all your accesories etc...

I replaced mine awhile back for a race stator that only puts out...... (I think 20 or 21 vs the oe on my bike was in the 40's)- it is now barely enough to keep the battery charged when I am riding especially if the high beams are on...... I think my consumption on high beams was just over 20- but, been so long I do not remember the exact numbers now.... but the race stator was about 1/2 cuz.... no lights etc to have to consume power)


But as to your question on making a high output one......... Take your oe stator to a stator/starter building place local to you and have them rewind it to a higher value, it'll cost less than buying a new one

and if one is not local........Ricks does "custom"


https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com...market-stators
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Stupid people say stupid things on the internet, so be wary of who those people are. If you solicit advice on the internet, just keep in mind 99% of what you'll receive is not based on fact or science-and likely atleast 95% of it is based on bullshit and bravado regurgitated from some other schlub who also did not experience any of what they claim and are also full of shit. If you don't like my bluntness- too bad. I am not here to please you, so move along, your approval is not desired nor is it needed. So before opening your pie hole and adding more stupidity, perhaps sit back, listen, absorb and learn something. You know that saying, it is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt!
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post #6 of 8 Old 01-11-2020, 10:37 AM
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I have seen a statement somewhere, as to the output of the OEM alternator; pretty sure that's stated in the shop manual. Either 650,or 800 Watts.

If you have more than 100 Watts of additional load, you are running in the red.

Calculations be damned. Measure it. Put your DMM in series with the battery, set in D.C. Amps. With all of your nonessential electric loads disconnected, start the bike. While the battery recharges you should see current flow into the battery.

If you connect the black lead to the positive battery terminal, and the red DMM lead to the red battery cable, that flow should be positive, and should become less as the battery approaches a full charge.

The OEM configuration.... 2 55W headlights, 4 5W marker lights, 5W l/p, should not cause that initial flow to become zero, or go negative. Even at normal idle.

If your additional nonessential electric loads cause the flow to go negative.... You are overloaded.

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post #7 of 8 Old 01-13-2020, 08:10 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJ2112 View Post
I have seen a statement somewhere, as to the output of the OEM alternator; pretty sure that's stated in the shop manual. Either 650,or 800 Watts.

If you have more than 100 Watts of additional load, you are running in the red.

Calculations be damned. Measure it. Put your DMM in series with the battery, set in D.C. Amps. With all of your nonessential electric loads disconnected, start the bike. While the battery recharges you should see current flow into the battery.

If you connect the black lead to the positive battery terminal, and the red DMM lead to the red battery cable, that flow should be positive, and should become less as the battery approaches a full charge.

The OEM configuration.... 2 55W headlights, 4 5W marker lights, 5W l/p, should not cause that initial flow to become zero, or go negative. Even at normal idle.

If your additional nonessential electric loads cause the flow to go negative.... You are overloaded.
I pretty sure my original post stated I was unable to find it in the shop manual which Is why I was asking here .
I am pretty frustrated that the value is not listed anywhere nor has anyone even tested one to have a ballpark Power.


The information you have provided is just telling me load data that I have already took the time gathering and tested. I was asking for the power output of the stator, granted I know that it may be different from bike to bike. It would give me a ballpark estimate.

Last edited by Mr Jurassic; 01-13-2020 at 08:29 AM.
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post #8 of 8 Old 01-13-2020, 08:27 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riverszzr View Post
you can measure the output of the oe stator, you can also calcultate how much useage you are using with all your accesories etc...

I replaced mine awhile back for a race stator that only puts out...... (I think 20 or 21 vs the oe on my bike was in the 40's)- it is now barely enough to keep the battery charged when I am riding especially if the high beams are on...... I think my consumption on high beams was just over 20- but, been so long I do not remember the exact numbers now.... but the race stator was about 1/2 cuz.... no lights etc to have to consume power)


But as to your question on making a high output one......... Take your oe stator to a stator/starter building place local to you and have them rewind it to a higher value, it'll cost less than buying a new one

and if one is not local........Ricks does "custom"


https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com...market-stators
Yes sir I am very well aware of how to test for current, I am a electrical engineer. I was simply just asking for the wattage so the hard data would be here for others to pull from as well. Not just for my own benefit.

Having a stator re-wound is not a simple task in a town as small as mine.

Its fine ill get my own numbers.

Thank you both for providing information, irrelevant as it is to my current situation. It may not be irrelevant to the next guy, which may help them.
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