First of all, you should be measuring your compression and rebound setting from full closed. So, you turn the adjuster fully clockwise, and then measure turns or clicks as you turn counter clockwise. This technique is more commonly used, and I believe Dave Moss uses it in his videos. This way, no matter how much adjustment ones forks have available, you always start from the same point (fully closed). So, take your fork rebound adjuster, for example, and measure as it stands right now how many turns until fully clockwise (seated/closed) and record that as your setting : fork rebound X turns out.
Second, I donít know the stock spring rate for your bike, but I am your size and weight and use 1.0 kg/mm springs in the front of my 2012. You should definitely invest in a fork rebuild with appropriate springs and possibly improved valving. I also really have a hard time believing you are just getting the front rebound to work the way Dave does his in the videos at the setting you described above. Seems like way too much rebound damping, but since you are measuring turns in from fully out I am having a hard time knowing where you really are.
Take ALL the preload, rebound and compression damping out of your forks and try the DM bouncing technique. Adjust your rebound as necessary. Then set your compression damping and preload back where you started, and adjust them at the track the way Dave does, using the zip tie on the fork. Also, make sure you know where bottom-out is on your forks. As a Dave says, it could be above where the dust seal kisses the bottom fork casting. Youíll need to look up the factory suspension travel limits, suspend the bikes front end, and measure that out.
Third, I think your tire pressures are too low. 32 psi would be a normal cold pressure for Q3+ tires.
Last edited by Duc995; 09-23-2019 at 10:27 AM.