Installed the new fuel pump w/cleaned injectors still 6,000 rpm stall - ZX6R Forum
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post #1 of 9 Old 08-18-2019, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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Installed the new fuel pump w/cleaned injectors still 6,000 rpm stall

Hello everyone,

2005 636 w/ PC USB custom map:

I was getting the notorious 6,000 rpm stall or gasping for air when hitting the WOT in 1st and 2nd gear

Yea, I installed the quantum fuel pump and new strainer with injectors cleaned from the dealer. After installing and adding new fuel i still get the stall at 6,000 rpm. Does anyone know what it could be?

Iím about to look into the factory trouble shooter to see what it could be. Might need a valve job or something, I donít know and was hoping someone had a similar issue..

Thanks and any knowledge is welcomed
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post #2 of 9 Old 08-19-2019, 03:27 AM Thread Starter
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Update: so I went in and did the trouble shooting using the dealer mode 1 and 2. not too sure how to enter the dealer mode 2. Mode 1 is fairly easy.

I'm thinking I need to erase the codes and start over. I'll pull the codes again later today after I charge the battery.

From the codes I did get, possibly could be a stick coil and or ECU..

More to follow
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post #3 of 9 Old 08-19-2019, 03:29 AM
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Try getting rid of your custom map and let it run on factory map. That just might be the problem.
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post #4 of 9 Old 08-19-2019, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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Yea, that was the first thought i had. When i wrote to dynojet, dude explained that the map doesnít go bad no mater how long it sits. And said to try another stock map. Iím considering just removing it completely to see what happens. It shouldnít be too hard.

But now i have another question, if you erase the codes will it go back to normal operating and trip the codes if there is an issue and store them.

When i go back in ill remove the PC and start over..

Thanks
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post #5 of 9 Old 08-19-2019, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by my05636 View Post
Yea, that was the first thought i had. When i wrote to dynojet, dude explained that the map doesnít go bad no mater how long it sits. And said to try another stock map. Iím considering just removing it completely to see what happens. It shouldnít be too hard.

But now i have another question, if you erase the codes will it go back to normal operating and trip the codes if there is an issue and store them.

When i go back in ill remove the PC and start over..

Thanks
Not sure how that map loading stuff works. But we have had cases where the map does go bad just for no reason.
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post #6 of 9 Old 08-20-2019, 09:48 AM
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Ecu runs both alpha n and speed density map..... sounds like one of those lost inside the ecu. Know anyone to swap ecu's with temporarily?
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post #7 of 9 Old 08-20-2019, 09:50 AM
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Nevermind- just seen last couple of posts lol. Busy day for me.
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post #8 of 9 Old 08-20-2019, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
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I donít have anyone to help me trouble shoot. Everything has to be done on my lonesome.

So far from what I gather:
- if its anything in the ECU Iím going to have to test all the electronics on the bike as part of troubleshooting steps in the factory TM flow chart, i think its a few tests but I still have questions and Iíll need a few tools but I can do it.

- what i need to know right now is if i attempt to clear the codes in dealer mode 1 & 2 will the codes re-appear after i disconnect the PC3 USB.

- I still need to know more about the PC3 and how to load the program on my laptop and how to transfer a map, I already know which map is the closest for the set up I have. Probably go back to stock or just disconnect the PC3 to try and keep the map installed

- my options are disconnect, install an inert (zero map) but it might not run after if still left connected.


The bike runs excellent/good except when i want to scream or ďred lineĒ which creates an unsafe situation, what I havenít noticed is their shift light coming on...

I thank you guys for helping, here is a pic of my 636
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post #9 of 9 Old 08-22-2019, 08:28 PM
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If a camshaft or crankshaft position sensor is drenched in oil it can fail until it is clean. Oil can disrupt or affect the conductivity of a non sealed connection such as pins from a connector going into a sensor.

My car used to stall at 4k rpm and discovered the camshaft timing sensor was drenched in oil because of a leak from the camshaft to valve cover plug.

If you have leaking oil whatsoever near any electrical connectors, don't worry, just clean it off, and try to address the leak. Victor Reinz gasket maker (audi/bmw) stuff is great on everything rated up to 500 F temps. A mechanic once reccomended it for not only my audi but on all things motorcycle. Clutch, Oil pan, Valve cover, Cases.
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