2011 brake issues - ZX6R Forum
 11Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 61 Old 08-17-2019, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
Squid
 
Twistychaser's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 32
2011 brake issues

This is my first post. Thanks for having me. I was riding yesterday and let a turn sneak on me and got in my brakes really hard. From that point on, if I get in the front brakes, the front end gets super chattery. What did I possibly damage? Did I warp the rotors, overheat the pads? All oem system. What can I do to correct this, as I'm wanting to start doing some track days next year and want to atleast upgrade to track grade (not race grade as i will be a newbie on a track) Thanks for any help.
Twistychaser is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 61 Old 08-17-2019, 06:38 PM
Post Master General
 
RJ2112's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Bowling Green, VA
Posts: 12,090

I Ride: '09 ZX6R
Garage
I'd guess either you glazed a rotor, or warped one.

"Basic stuff fellas. Use your head for something other than to break your next fall."

Words to live by
RJ2112 is online now  
post #3 of 61 Old 08-17-2019, 06:57 PM
Superbike Champion
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 1,048
I saw your other post asking about used rotors and calipers... there is no way you damaged anything using your brakes. Worse case scenario you deposited a heavier layer of pad residue on the rotors and now the “feel” is different. I would put the bike up on stands, and clean the rotors with some fine sand paper and then wipe them down with either brake cleaner or acetone to remove any deposits. If you want to be really thorough, you could also remove the calipers (don’t disconnect the brake lines!) and then remove the brake pads, and finally clean the calipers thoroughly with a mild dish detergent, distilled water, and a tooth brush; you should be doing that at least a couple times per year - more frequently if you start doing track days. I get out a bucket, hold the caliper over it, and use a spray bottle with the soap and water mix and spray it on the caliper. Then start scrubbing with the toothbrush and follow with another spray bottle with straight distilled water. All of this dirty liquid ending up in your bucket. I like to use some compressed air to help dry the calipers and then reassemble.

Finally, the way you retighten your caliper bolts is again, with the bike still on the stands, put the calipers on and only tighten the caliper bolts finger-tight. Spin the front wheel with one hand, and then grab the front brakes with the other hand and repeat a couple times. On the last “spin and grab” do not release the brake lever, then use your wrench to tighten the caliper bolts securely. Release the brake lever and use a torque wrench to set the caliper bolts to 34 N-m. All this was to properly align the brake pads with the rotors.


All of this will allow you to inspect and regain confidence that things are okay.
RJ2112 likes this.
Duc995 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 61 Old 08-17-2019, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
Squid
 
Twistychaser's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 32
Thanks alot Duc, I'll get on that tomorrow and see what happens. I'm just getting back into bikes. I've only put 500 miles on this one since I got it in June. I rode a Gixxer 600 from 2006 to 2011. I hope that's all it is.
Twistychaser is offline  
post #5 of 61 Old 08-17-2019, 09:11 PM
Team Green
 
zx6rguiy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 102
You could have already had a warped rotor and just only discovered it when you got on the brakes harder than you ever have before. Read this thread https://www.zx6r.com/mechanical-tech...n-rebuild.html
zx6rguiy is offline  
post #6 of 61 Old 08-18-2019, 10:25 AM Thread Starter
Squid
 
Twistychaser's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 32
Duc, hopefully you'll see this in the next little bit. Ive got the wheel off cleaning everything up really good. Just had a question. When you were mentioning lining everything, you never mentioned at what point to tighten and torque the axle nut. Where would that come in the order of re-assembly? Thanks for all of your help so far as well!
Twistychaser is offline  
post #7 of 61 Old 08-18-2019, 01:48 PM
Superbike Champion
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 1,048
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twistychaser View Post
Duc, hopefully you'll see this in the next little bit. Ive got the wheel off cleaning everything up really good. Just had a question. When you were mentioning lining everything, you never mentioned at what point to tighten and torque the axle nut. Where would that come in the order of re-assembly? Thanks for all of your help so far as well!
Sorry. I didn’t expect you to be dealing with the axle. All the stuff I mentioned can be done without messing with the front wheel. If the axle needs to be torqued, because the front wheel was removed, that would be done before the brakes. And the axle, per the manual, needs to be tightened down in its own sequence.
Duc995 is offline  
post #8 of 61 Old 08-18-2019, 01:51 PM
Superbike Champion
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 1,048
The axle has to be correctly torqued, then the front end “bounced”, and finally the two right-sided axle clamp bolts are torqued. Then the calipers are put back on the rotors, and the “special” alignment procedure performed.
Duc995 is offline  
post #9 of 61 Old 08-18-2019, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
Squid
 
Twistychaser's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 32
Yea I went ahead and pulled the wheel. I completely removed the rotors from the wheels and gave them a thorough cleaning. They are torqued back to 20 ft/lb per a torque value sheet I found for most bolts on the bike. I just got everything back together with everything still finger tight. So I will do the axle now, then the calipers. Thanks so much for your guidance. I will let you know in a bit if the chatter is gone.
Twistychaser is offline  
post #10 of 61 Old 08-18-2019, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
Squid
 
Twistychaser's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 32
Well, unfortunately the chatter is still there upon initial braking during a hard brake. As I ease out on the lever approaching deeper into the turn, it goes away. Should I start with pads? Hard to tell what previous owner had on it to begin with.
Twistychaser is offline  
post #11 of 61 Old 08-18-2019, 04:28 PM
Post Master General
 
Scorpi0's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: LA, Cali
Posts: 12,280

I Ride: 06 636
Get your tire up in the air and spin it. Inspect the rotors for waviness. How much pad to u have left on your brakes? Are your caliper bokta tightened down good?
Scorpi0 is offline  
post #12 of 61 Old 08-18-2019, 04:34 PM Thread Starter
Squid
 
Twistychaser's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 32
The rotors seem ok. I forgot to put fender back on when I tested it. So I could see the rotors turning as I was driving. Seemed straight. Pads have decent life in them. For all I know they were the cheapest pads previous owner could find.
Twistychaser is offline  
post #13 of 61 Old 08-18-2019, 05:17 PM
Post Master General
 
RJ2112's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Bowling Green, VA
Posts: 12,090

I Ride: '09 ZX6R
Garage
Does your brake lever to soft on a regular basis?

"Basic stuff fellas. Use your head for something other than to break your next fall."

Words to live by
RJ2112 is online now  
post #14 of 61 Old 08-18-2019, 05:20 PM
Superbike Champion
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 1,048
It’s a long shot, but I had trouble like you are describing - but during heavy braking at track days - apparently because when I installed my front axle I wasn’t torquing it to 127 N-m as specified in the manual; I had been been lazy and since my 1/2 inch heavy-duty torque wrench had broken I was using the 3/8” one that maxed out at 105 N-m. I spent years chasing that ghost! Thought it was pads/rotors/steering head bearings/ you name it. The last thing I did before it going away was buy a new torque wrench and give it the full 127.

Best of luck ... at least you now have clean and aligned brake calipers and rotors!
RJ2112 likes this.
Duc995 is offline  
post #15 of 61 Old 08-18-2019, 06:58 PM
Team Green
 
zx6rguiy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 102
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twistychaser View Post
The rotors seem ok. I forgot to put fender back on when I tested it. So I could see the rotors turning as I was driving. Seemed straight. Pads have decent life in them. For all I know they were the cheapest pads previous owner could find.
What you are describing sounds like a warped rotor. If the rotor is warped, it will push the brake pistons back into the caliper every time the rotor comes around while you are on the brakes. This will push fluid back up into your master cylinder and back to your caliper causing a pulsating feeling in your brake lever.
The service limit on rotor runout is 0.010" so even though it may have "seemed straight", it could very easily be well out of specification. I would suggest purchasing a dial indicator to check your rotors before you start throwing parts at it. They are fairly cheap online and can be used for all kinds of things. Also if this is not fixed soon, you may find yourself having caliper or master cylinder issues as well.
RJ2112 likes this.
zx6rguiy is offline  
Reply

  ZX6R Forum > ZX6R Forum > Mechanical and Technical

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome