Maintenance intervals when racing/track riding - ZX6R Forum
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post #1 of 13 Old 08-08-2019, 08:13 PM Thread Starter
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Maintenance intervals when racing/track riding

For those fellow racers and track-addicts out there: how often do you replace items like the air filter and spark plugs on your bikes, compared to what the service manual specifies? Iím assuming most of you change ďconsumablesĒ like that more frequently than what the manual states...
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post #2 of 13 Old 08-08-2019, 09:34 PM
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I usually change the oil every weekend, clean/lube chain every weekend, change the water every year, clean and oil air filter every year, spark plugs every 2 years (probably should be every year), shock and fork rebuild every year, flush the brakes twice a year, clean and lube steering head and shock linkage, and clean the brakes when it looks and feels like it needs it. Every thing else should be a case by case basis. For example, some riders wear clutches out faster than others. Same with the brake pads and tires. Keep in mind I only put about 2000 miles on my bike every year. The main reason I do alot of things yearly is because I sit on my ass for about 6 months every winter and have nothing better to do.
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post #3 of 13 Old 08-09-2019, 12:00 AM
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oil/filter no more than 500ish miles
air filter as needed
spark plugs once every rebuild/refresh......typically sub 5000 miles on those, some of the bikes it is every 2000-2500 miles
valve adjustment intervals cut down to around 2000-3000 miles depending on bike and how ridden
fork oil and bushings, steering head bearings cleaned and repacked, suspension linkages bushings and needle bearings cleaned and repacked, wheel bearings etc........... once every winter (about 3000 miles for most of the MN racers)
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post #4 of 13 Old 08-09-2019, 06:12 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys!

Hey Riverszzr...when do you consider the air filter replacement ďas needed?Ē Just based upon how it looks?

Last edited by Duc995; 08-09-2019 at 06:15 AM.
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post #5 of 13 Old 08-09-2019, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Duc995 View Post
For those fellow racers and track-addicts out there: how often do you replace items like the air filter and spark plugs on your bikes, compared to what the service manual specifies? Iím assuming most of you change ďconsumablesĒ like that more frequently than what the manual states...
Oil change every other day of riding
Filter every other change

Spark plugs once per season

Fork fluid twice per season

Shock rebuild once per season

Clutch as needed

Air filter cleaned as needed (BMC)

Chain and sprockets as needed

Doing a full motor rebuild top and bottom after two seasons

Brake fluid as needed/couple weekends

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post #6 of 13 Old 08-09-2019, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Gawernator View Post
Oil change every other day of riding
Filter every other change

Spark plugs once per season

Fork fluid twice per season

Shock rebuild once per season

Clutch as needed

Air filter cleaned as needed (BMC)

Chain and sprockets as needed

Doing a full motor rebuild top and bottom after two seasons

Brake fluid as needed/couple weekends
Thanks. Itís the rebuild/refresh of the motor that I am really uncertain about when dealing with a trackday bike.
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post #7 of 13 Old 08-12-2019, 01:28 AM
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Thanks. Itís the rebuild/refresh of the motor that I am really uncertain about when dealing with a trackday bike.
Going to depend on the motor's history, and how hard you ride it;

and if there is abuse of course.

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post #8 of 13 Old 08-12-2019, 06:56 AM Thread Starter
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Going to depend on the motor's history, and how hard you ride it;

and if there is abuse of course.
Well, my bike went straight from showroom floor to the track. No racing and never seen the rev limiter, but still is a dedicated track bike that is pretty much always run at full throttle, whenever possible. Now at just over 7500 track-miles lím going to have the valve clearances checked, and adjusted as necessary. It runs great so not going to consider a refresh/rebuild quite yet. I just donít want to risk having an engine grenade on me at speed.
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post #9 of 13 Old 08-12-2019, 01:13 PM
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Well, my bike went straight from showroom floor to the track. No racing and never seen the rev limiter, but still is a dedicated track bike that is pretty much always run at full throttle, whenever possible. Now at just over 7500 track-miles lím going to have the valve clearances checked, and adjusted as necessary. It runs great so not going to consider a refresh/rebuild quite yet. I just donít want to risk having an engine grenade on me at speed.
7500 track miles is a lot. My bike had about 8k street miles, and about 3-4k track/race miles on it. Doing a top and bottom end right now, parts as needed. Probably going to be all bearings, rings, and pistons at least. It was getting more rattly and down on power. Also a good upgrade is a manual cam chain tensioner while you're doing that. A lot of people ride their track bikes for years without rebuilds though. The Kawasaki motors are pretty strong, especially the 13-19+. The 09-12 had weaker rods. I don't know about older than that..

I've also never done a valve check, though now is the time. If it's starting easily when it's hot out then the valve clearances are ok. Also you should be getting close to redline if you're on track! I am constantly between 12-15.5k! haha
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post #10 of 13 Old 08-12-2019, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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Also you should be getting close to redline if you're on track! I am constantly between 12-15.5k! haha
Close to redline is one thing...bouncing off the rev-limiter is another! Iíve (intentionally) never hit the rev limiter, which I believe is at 15k. If youíre hitting 15.5k iím guessing you had your rev limit raised with an ECU flash; I decided against that option when I had my ECU flashed. Itís just a ďfor funĒ track bike - not a race bike.

Iíve had many track bikes over the last 24 yrs and never had one start to act like it needed a rebuild. Never had one feel like it was down on power, or whatever. I guess I never beat on them that badly, and moved on to the next before it was necessary. The two-stroke Aprilia Cup bikes I had needed regular rebuilds, but thatís a two-stroke for ya.

Oh, and regarding your manual cam chain tensioner recommendation...iíve been following this forum for quite a while, and the consensus iíve arrived at is that they are extremely difficult to get right. Between this and the WERA forum there have been quite a number of disaster stories involving a MCCT. But I appreciate your advice...

Just checked out your website! Looks like youíre due for some updates ....
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Last edited by Duc995; 08-12-2019 at 01:43 PM.
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post #11 of 13 Old 08-12-2019, 03:30 PM
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Close to redline is one thing...bouncing off the rev-limiter is another! Iíve (intentionally) never hit the rev limiter, which I believe is at 15k. If youíre hitting 15.5k iím guessing you had your rev limit raised with an ECU flash; I decided against that option when I had my ECU flashed. Itís just a ďfor funĒ track bike - not a race bike.

Iíve had many track bikes over the last 24 yrs and never had one start to act like it needed a rebuild. Never had one feel like it was down on power, or whatever. I guess I never beat on them that badly, and moved on to the next before it was necessary. The two-stroke Aprilia Cup bikes I had needed regular rebuilds, but thatís a two-stroke for ya.

Oh, and regarding your manual cam chain tensioner recommendation...iíve been following this forum for quite a while, and the consensus iíve arrived at is that they are extremely difficult to get right. Between this and the WERA forum there have been quite a number of disaster stories involving a MCCT. But I appreciate your advice...

Just checked out your website! Looks like youíre due for some updates ....
Well the stock one tends to fail on race bikes. I am lucky to have a good engine builder that can set that I guess. My OEM tensioner is failing. Stock redline is 15.5k, 16k on the R6, 16k on the 599cc ZX6R as well

But power trails off around 15 so thatís when I shift

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post #12 of 13 Old 08-12-2019, 04:02 PM Thread Starter
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Well the stock one tends to fail on race bikes. I am lucky to have a good engine builder that can set that I guess. My OEM tensioner is failing. Stock redline is 15.5k, 16k on the R6, 16k on the 599cc ZX6R as well

But power trails off around 15 so thatís when I shift
Okay. Thanks. I guess I just remember the ECU flash guy asking if I wanted the rev limit raised by 500 rpm, or not.
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post #13 of 13 Old 08-13-2019, 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Duc995 View Post
Thanks guys!

Hey Riverszzr...when do you consider the air filter replacement ďas needed?Ē Just based upon how it looks?
stock type, yes by looks.........ram air bikes especially pick up lots of rubber and bugs- you can tap out much but the oil impregnated paper still gets dirty with stuff that can't get tapped out and you can't wash them, as once they get wet they get super restrictive

cleanable filters at minimum I tap them out clean at every oil/filter change ~500 miles........... Then take them out and clean and re-oil with every 3rd oil change ~1500 (quite a few variables here really..........crash into the sand pit- out and washed, ride through into dusk at a trackday event and pick up tons of bugs or follow people close on a real dirty track and fill it full of rubber bits and sand....out and washed , ride in the desert on a windy day- out and washed....etc)


A just for fun trackbike running 7500-14,500rpms will last much longer and wear much less than a racebike run from 12,000-15,500..........
The clutch on plenty of slipper clutch bikes usually will long wear out before the engine if you are using engine braking, especially if you are using it hard

but, I have seen plenty of actual racebikes and trackbike engines that people ride like it is a racebike... that have not made it to 7500 miles before imploding, on the other hand I have also seen plenty of more casually ridden track bikes (like how you seem to ride) that have had north of 25,000 miles, but you have to remember...........600's are always built much lighter weight than 750's or 1000's especially in rod and main bearing size- those will always wear out way faster (generally about 25%-50% of the life) ie... liter bike rod and main bearings may well last 2 to 4 times longer than those same parts on a 600 bike.....

Shit tons of variables on all of it- but I would err on the side of caution.........

standard refresh may well be sub $700 in parts whereas if you implode it, you will have to source an engine (generally north of $1k right there) then rebuild that engine (generally north of $2k)

I just had to find a replacement engine for one of the FZ07's again, and then turn the 65hp slug into a ~90hp race competitive "reliable" engine....... cost............. $10k
all because a $30 oem intake valve failed.......... now those $240 worth of valves are replaced with $500 worth of Ti valves- hoping to keep this engine together a little longer....

refresh is always cheaper and faster than replacement and full build.......... always !!!! it is just part of the maintenance schedule and part of the expense.....
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