Should I rebuild it, 05 636 - ZX6R Forum
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post #1 of 19 Old 08-03-2019, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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Should I rebuild it, 05 636

I just bought an 05 zx6r 636. When I looked at the bike, it sounded like a spun rod bearing, so I expected a complete rebuild or replacement engine. When I was pulling the engine, I found number 1 spark plug wasn't screwed in (no it hadn't blown the threads, just wasn't in). Since I only had a couple bolts to pull and the rest of the wiring, I went ahead and pulled the engine. When I got it on the bench, pulled the pan, and no signs of spun bearings. The only damage I could find was the seal to the valve cover on that cylinder got pressure, and blew.

My question for anyone that's done these engines. With 37k miles, should I do anything with the engine. (bearings, rings, etc) Or just put it back and see how it runs?

Thanks
Jim

Last edited by 74f100; 08-03-2019 at 06:58 PM.
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post #2 of 19 Old 08-03-2019, 09:28 PM
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Depends on your skill level, your budget and your time and tools availability....

For about $500 in parts you can replace all comsumables and make it all fresh again............. and I sure the fuck would

and if you want some extra performance I would go as far as doing a much better valve job than stock, getting the squish set to something much tighter than stock and then do cam timing changes before putting it back in and doing some fueling changes on an actual dyno not just some piece of shit generic map

woohoo we are having fun now
Stupid people say stupid things on the internet, so be wary of who those people are. If you solicit advice on the internet, just keep in mind 99% of what you'll receive is not based on fact or science-and likely atleast 95% of it is based on bullshit and bravado regurgitated from some other schlub who also did not experience any of what they claim and are also full of shit. If you don't like my bluntness- too bad. I am not here to please you, so move along, your approval is not desired nor is it needed. So before opening your pie hole and adding more stupidity, perhaps sit back, listen, absorb and learn something. You know that saying, it is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt!
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post #3 of 19 Old 08-04-2019, 06:52 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, that's what I was wondering. I have all the needed tools, and have rebuilt various engines and transmissions in cars. Just never one of these engines. I'm not really interested in a performance increase. This bike stock is still way over what I was used to.

I'll do a temporary re-install today to see if/how it runs. Then drop in a couple weeks.
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post #4 of 19 Old 08-04-2019, 07:59 AM Thread Starter
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I'm guessing by consumables. Rod/Main bearings, rings, clutch? Anything else that just needs replace after 37k miles?
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post #5 of 19 Old 08-04-2019, 08:49 AM
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The other consideration is what do you intend to do with the bike? If your goal is long term ownership....... worth every penny to ensure it's in tip top shape for many years to come. If you plan on flipping the bike, the resale value is unlikely to increase much when there are so many uneducated buyers out there. Cosmetics would reap more benefit, TBH.

"Basic stuff fellas. Use your head for something other than to break your next fall."
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post #6 of 19 Old 08-04-2019, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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I'm not sure what my intentions will be with this bike. Got the engine back in and tested, runs great. Does need throttle cables, saw a frayed one when I pulled the engine. That's causing it to stick. Ran up the road to put a little fuel in. This bike is definitely fun, was at 80 by third gear without even pushing. Need to watch the speed. I'll ride it some over the next couple weeks to decide what I want to do. But looks wise, it's not perfect, but a well maintained (visually) bike. That's why I bought it.
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post #7 of 19 Old 08-04-2019, 04:08 PM
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At this point you made a good deal on a bike that you got running quite a lot better with very little effort..... it's not going to depreciate past a certain point, as a running sport bike in solid condition will always have some minimum value. Guessing somewhere around $1500-2500 depending on location and time of year. Could be a lot higher, may be slightly lower.

My '09 bone stock will hit near 90 by the end of second gear. I don't need any more fun than I can have with this thing.

Seriously, the bast things you can do in the short term is make sure the brakes are working as well as you can afford, followed by tires and suspension. Go fast doesn't matter if you can't stop.

Next area you really want to invest in, is yourself. Training is more important than gear..... gear is there, for when your training fails you.

Defensive motorcycle riding is similar in intent to defensive driving, but it needs to take place at much greater range. The sooner you can identify the threat(s), the less effort it takes to mitigate them. Finding out your super bike doesn't stop any better than the average economy box can come as a rude surprise. Training will show you how to address the brakes to get maximum stopping.

Swerving and steering are things it is best to have a thorough understanding of, and enough practice that it is committed to muscle memory.

"Basic stuff fellas. Use your head for something other than to break your next fall."
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post #8 of 19 Old 08-04-2019, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, the last training I took was the MSF course, probably close to 20 years ago. I've always been very defensive minded when riding. But I haven't been on a bike in 10 to 15 years.
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post #9 of 19 Old 08-04-2019, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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KBB showed $3300 trade in here,,,,not that far from Bowling Green. But then again, I have no idea where that is. LOL
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post #10 of 19 Old 08-04-2019, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 74f100 View Post
KBB showed $3300 trade in here,,,,not that far from Bowling Green. But then again, I have no idea where that is. LOL
Bowling Green is about halfway between Richmond, and Fredericksburg slightly East of the direct line. Nothing of great importance, except for the Army Training range abutting it. If you're not in agriculture, you're commuting 40 miles to somewhere. House and land prices are low because of the distance from metro areas.

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post #11 of 19 Old 08-16-2019, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riverszzr View Post
Depends on your skill level, your budget and your time and tools availability....



For about $500 in parts you can replace all comsumables and make it all fresh again............. and I sure the fuck would



and if you want some extra performance I would go as far as doing a much better valve job than stock, getting the squish set to something much tighter than stock and then do cam timing changes before putting it back in and doing some fueling changes on an actual dyno not just some piece of shit generic map


So I posted my own question regarding this, but havenít got any replies. I am doing a refresh, but am wondering what parts I should swap out while I am working on the engine (06 636)
I am doing shift forks, cam chain and guides, factory pro shift star, head gasket and o-rings, oil, filter.
Is there more I should do at the same time?
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post #12 of 19 Old 08-16-2019, 09:37 AM Thread Starter
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As a general rule with all engines I've done. Rings, main and rod bearings. And I'll also do the things you've listed
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post #13 of 19 Old 08-16-2019, 09:39 AM Thread Starter
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I'm also not interested in making it faster. This thing already does more than I want
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post #14 of 19 Old 08-16-2019, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hehy View Post
So I posted my own question regarding this, but havenít got any replies. I am doing a refresh, but am wondering what parts I should swap out while I am working on the engine (06 636)
I am doing shift forks, cam chain and guides, factory pro shift star, head gasket and o-rings, oil, filter.
Is there more I should do at the same time?
shortest list possible is this;
oil pump rotors and look at the housing closely- you may just need to replace it all (all dependant on how clean the oil has been kept, but I see 5-10psi drops all the time even on "low" mileage bikes due to the pump wear....)
all new gaskets and oil seals
cam chain
valve guide seals (while doing- decarbon all the valves and inspect the faces and seat and check valve stem to valve guide clearance
head gasket is totally optional- I haven't replaced a steel layered head gasket in about 40 engine builds with zero issues
crank and rod bearings
piston rings and rigid hone the cylinders properly
piston wrist pins are a huge wear area on these (seen about a dozen of them fail or be so galled up they were chewing the con rod)--bare bones minimum is remove clean and thorughly inspect the 4 of them
obviously inspect the clutch, the transmission etc too
then of course new oil/filter and may as well do new spark plugs at this time too..........
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woohoo we are having fun now
Stupid people say stupid things on the internet, so be wary of who those people are. If you solicit advice on the internet, just keep in mind 99% of what you'll receive is not based on fact or science-and likely atleast 95% of it is based on bullshit and bravado regurgitated from some other schlub who also did not experience any of what they claim and are also full of shit. If you don't like my bluntness- too bad. I am not here to please you, so move along, your approval is not desired nor is it needed. So before opening your pie hole and adding more stupidity, perhaps sit back, listen, absorb and learn something. You know that saying, it is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt!
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post #15 of 19 Old 08-17-2019, 08:26 AM Thread Starter
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Awesome, thanks Rivers. Do you have the equipment to hone? Or know of a shop you could recommend. All I have is a hand held hone. The cheapo that goes on a drill at low speed.
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