Help me please! - ZX6R Forum
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post #1 of 9 Old 06-15-2019, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
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Help me please!

So I own a 2019 Zx6R and I just had a Two Brothers Racing Typhoon slip on installed and a new air filter and also a power commander 5. After install the shop put it on the dyno to tune it. They gave it back with the traction control lights flashing and the engine light on...

Also there wasn't a huge increase in torque and hp. But that's not the big problem I'm worried about. How can I get these lights to go out??
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post #2 of 9 Old 06-15-2019, 05:44 PM
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Call the shop and see what they say... insist they correct their “faux pas.”

Or,

Call Dynojet and see if their is a known issue with the 2019 install.

And,

....get a new tuner.
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Last edited by Duc995; 06-15-2019 at 05:50 PM.
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post #3 of 9 Old 06-16-2019, 12:11 AM
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There seems to be quite a few issues with aftermarket electronics showing up with the '19 model. Lights, fi, shifters......

First model year beta testing. It would be very interesting to hear what Kawasaki has to say.

"Basic stuff fellas. Use your head for something other than to break your next fall."
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post #4 of 9 Old 06-16-2019, 12:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJ2112 View Post
There seems to be quite a few issues with aftermarket electronics showing up with the '19 model. Lights, fi, shifters......



First model year beta testing. It would be very interesting to hear what Kawasaki has to say.


Doesn’t the 19 have canbus electronics? If that system gets the wrong resistance it will throw a code. The O2 sensor probably does not like to try to compensate for the tune if it is not eliminated/turned Off with a flash tune.
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post #5 of 9 Old 06-16-2019, 02:44 AM
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Originally Posted by hehy View Post
Doesn’t the 19 have canbus electronics? If that system gets the wrong resistance it will throw a code. The O2 sensor probably does not like to try to compensate for the tune if it is not eliminated/turned Off with a flash tune.
I've tossed that idea out there, haven't seen any documentation to confirm or deny. It seems like a very strong probability.

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post #6 of 9 Old 06-16-2019, 07:41 AM
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I took a search on the internet, and it turns out that the active suspension system on the H2 and Versys 1000 use a system developed in Australia, that samples and reacts 500 times faster than any competitor...... that sort of data rate is indicative of a CANBUS system.

Wikipedia has some info on that.

The most important takeaway being that CANBUS uses the power bus for reference. The operating parameter that is most important would be that it operates 0.9 volts below the positive value, and has to have a difference of at least 3.5 volts to operate..... in simple terms on a 12VDC system, it would have a high signal of 11.1, and would need the low side to be no more than 7.6 volts.

If the 'high' side is 'pulled' lower than desired, say to 8 or 9 volts, then the system is unlikely to communicate.

LED replacement lights can easily cause issues with this.

A current limiting resistor would reduce the opportunity for the aftermarket gizmo to upset the CANBUS.

The trick with that, is to put the resistor AFTER the device. +, Device, resistor, -.

If you know how much current the gizmo actually needs, you can make it difficult for that circuit to draw more current than it needs (which has the potential to lower the bus voltage). LED bulbs use very, very little current. 12V, LED, resistor, -. If the resistance is great enough, not very much current can flow. 12/ 100 ohms, would allow a maximum of 0.12 amps to flow. That's 120 milliamps, which is almost certainly adequate for any marker bulb, accessory type of device. As the '19 already has LED headlights that are compatible with the bike, someone has to have already done the math to work out what is correct for that.

The aftermarket almost certainly has not.

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post #7 of 9 Old 06-16-2019, 07:44 AM
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Have you ridden it since the dyno session?

When the front wheel is stationary and the rear wheel is spinning at 140mph, I have had ABS &traction control and all sorts of warning issues, After removing from dyno (obviously a key cycle of off/on)......... the second I go ride the bike all those go away because all is normal again....

not saying that is your issue but...... Have you actually ridden it a mile or so?

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Stupid people say stupid things on the internet, so be wary of who those people are. If you solicit advice on the internet, just keep in mind 99% of what you'll receive is not based on fact or science-and likely atleast 95% of it is based on bullshit and bravado regurgitated from some other schlub who also did not experience any of what they claim and are also full of shit. If you don't like my bluntness- too bad. I am not here to please you, so move along, your approval is not desired nor is it needed. So before opening your pie hole and adding more stupidity, perhaps sit back, listen, absorb and learn something. You know that saying, it is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to open your mouth and remove all doubt!
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post #8 of 9 Old 06-17-2019, 01:21 AM Thread Starter
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So after about 20 miles the engine light went off and my power modes and traction control are now operational again. It just fixed itself somehow. I still want a flash tune tbh
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post #9 of 9 Old 06-17-2019, 02:22 AM
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Kawasaki has this ride it and it will clear itself method, done it myself with Z125s and zx6r

2016 - Kawasaki - ZX-6R 636 (ABS)
Rear Wheel 130HP / ~97kw & 53ft-Ib / ~71nm
Mods: Two Brothers S1R Slip-on Exhaust, Decored OEM headers, LED lighting conversion (Headlights, Markers, Indicators), TST Industries Taillight light and TST Industries Fender Eliminator
Woolich Racing ECU Tune w/ Race Tools: Quickshifter, Launch Control & Pit Limiter
Planned Mods: Braided Brake Lines

2016 - Kawasaki - Z125 Pro
Mods: Yoshimura RS-2 Exhaust, Airbox delete with Short Ram Intake with Pod filter and LED Headlight and Markers Conversion
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