Charging issues - ZX6R Forum
 
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post #1 of 4 Old 06-10-2019, 04:43 AM Thread Starter
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Charging issues

HELP so long story short 4 rectifiers 2 stators I'm lost so I built this bike from ground up welp when I did I happened to fck up and pinch a hose to my catch can causing a overheating problem happened 1 time bike hit 241 but after tht hell broke loose so I guess I fried my stator and rectifier but I found out about my stator after my 3rd one so now that I replaced both I was having a issue with it over charging at rev was hittin 16v at idle 14.5/14.8 so I was told check my grounds and connections so I did and found one of my plugs to my main harness was alil burnt happens to be a ground wire I spliced on valve cover not sure if maybe jus a Coincidence but I had it soldered anyway once I did it fixed my problem running at 13 sumn idle but at rev would hit 14.7 rode up the street parked came back to ride notice light was out checked charge back at 14.5/14.7 at idle rev wouldnt past 14.8 so thought maybe I blew a bulb rode for alil and once I parked up saw my rectifier smoking with brown liquid comin from it fried again smh someone please help point me in the right direction I'm thinking harness may be fried but idk bike still fires up but haven't checked into nothing further yet
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post #2 of 4 Old 06-10-2019, 10:55 PM
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If the D.C. voltage never goes past 14.7, the charging system is working as advertised. Pretty certain it will be something melted and or shorted.

What's the D.C.voltage at the battery with the bike off? Should be 12.3 or so. At least 12.1

What's the D.C.voltage at the battery with the ignition on, but the bike not running? Should still be 12.3 or so.

With the bike running and the lights on at idle, what's the D.C.voltage at the battery? That is likely to be less than 14.7, normally slightly above resting battery potential 12.1-13 or so. Should see that maximum 14.7 with some RPM.

If all of that is correct, the problem is most likely the ground wire from the R/R to frame or battery.

The rectifier/regulator sheds excess power to ground to protect the battery. Has to have that path to do it. No path, it dies trying to do it's job. Amperage makes heat...... That melts stuff.

"Basic stuff fellas. Use your head for something other than to break your next fall."
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post #3 of 4 Old 06-12-2019, 03:31 AM Thread Starter
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So your thinking maybe bad ground somewhere? Can it be possible for my flywheel to be slightly warped can that cause my problems so what blew my 1st stator is my bike overheated once nd for your question everything was tested at the battery terminals so bike on idle was running 13ish rev 14.7 but I heard that's even to much juice heard shouldn't past 14.5 but after I thought I fixed problem brought bike home go for a ride notice headlight out so I check voltage again now I'm back at 14.5/14.7 at idle 15/15.1 at rev thought maybe bulb blew so I still took a spin at the end of the ride got off my bike see my rectifier smoking brown liquid comin out fried another smh haven't ran no further test yet
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post #4 of 4 Old 06-12-2019, 03:49 AM
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The alternator puts out AC voltage, at a higher level than needed so it can always be cut down to what is required. The bike's electrical system runs on DC. The rectifier converts that High AC voltage to a higher than needed DC voltage, but not by a stupid high amount. Typically, around 15 VDC. This is because you have to have a higher voltage than what the battery potential is, to force a charge into it. Like trying to blow air into a balloon.

If that DC voltage is too high, the battery can get blown up/burnt out. 15 VDC+ will do it.

The regulator portion of the R/R acts like a waste gate or a dump valve, and is supposed to get rid of the extra power from the alternator, leaving the maximum that the battery can take in. That's why you should never see more than 14.3 VDC or so -- the regulator should not allow the voltage to go any higher. (The numbers vary very slightly because all meters are not created equal.) The regulator controls the voltage by shorting out the DC voltage as long as it is above the value it wants to regulate at. That part time short circuit is either controlled with an internal (to the R/R) relay or by a solid state device that does the same thing. That's another connection on the R/R..... you have to have a wire that goes either to the frame, or back to the negative terminal of the battery for that 'dumped' power to flow on. There has to be a complete path all the way back to the battery for that.

If the R/R was smoking and leaking stuff, that means it was getting much too hot and that can only happen if you wired it up backwards, or don't have that ground wire in place.

One side of the R/R is supposed to plug into the alternator out put, the other side should face the battery and the rest of the electrical system. 57-75 VAC where 12 VDC is supposed to be would definitely burn out head lights....... simple check is to put your meter in AC V, and check across the battery with the bike running.

"Basic stuff fellas. Use your head for something other than to break your next fall."
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