fork service - ZX6R Forum
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post #1 of 76 Old 03-17-2019, 08:11 AM Thread Starter
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fork service

Just ordered up the motion pro cap socket tool, so I can open the forks and replace the oil.... Finally taking the plunge on a USD fork. More to follow when it shows up and I can get on with it.

From the shop manual, the oil change is straightforward enough, once you can take the caps off without damaging them.

It was surprising how much more expensive the Kawasaki tool was, than the Motion Pro tool.

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post #2 of 76 Old 03-17-2019, 08:16 AM
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You're going to need a cartridge removal tool and seal driver

GP Suspension BPF Seal Head Tool

and a seal driver

JL99
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post #3 of 76 Old 03-17-2019, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
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You're going to need a cartridge removal tool and seal driver

GP Suspension BPF Seal Head Tool

and a seal driver
I'm cheap, and lazy.... I don't think there is anything wrong with the bushings or seals. The oil is off viscosity, so my damping is all hosed up. No leaks, no looseness or other indication that the bushings need to be replaced.....

You're going to make me watch you tube videos to get a better understanding of this.

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post #4 of 76 Old 03-17-2019, 12:29 PM
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You wont know the bushings need to be replaced until you take the the forks apart. Which means you will need to remove the upper stanchion from the lower, which will require the seal to be bashed out of the upper stanchion. If you've put on a lot of miles before the last time the forks have been gone through, it might not be a bad idea to just replace everything.
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post #5 of 76 Old 03-17-2019, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
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I can certainly understand why the bushings and seals may need replacement..... If needed I will go there.

Buying all the tools would cost as much as having a shop do it for me.

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post #6 of 76 Old 03-17-2019, 02:10 PM
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If i do my seals and oil i do my bushings at the same time for what they cost I've got them stripped down so why put them back together then have to strip them down again to replace a couple of bushes.
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post #7 of 76 Old 03-17-2019, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by RJ2112 View Post
I can certainly understand why the bushings and seals may need replacement..... If needed I will go there.

Buying all the tools would cost as much as having a shop do it for me.
You need to remove the fork guide rod to change out the oil.

I also forgot to mention a fork oil level tool.
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post #8 of 76 Old 03-21-2019, 03:55 PM
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@RJ2112 not sure what year your bike is, however I was able to change the fork seals on my 2008 ZX6 with only a few dollars in homemade tools/gig.
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post #9 of 76 Old 03-21-2019, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJ2112 View Post
Buying all the tools would cost as much as having a shop do it for me.
Only the first time.


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Originally Posted by Phill636 View Post
If i do my seals and oil i do my bushings at the same time for what they cost I've got them stripped down so why put them back together then have to strip them down again to replace a couple of bushes.
I do the same. Once you're in there you might as well change all the wear parts. IIRC, OP said he is somewhere north of 50,000 miles on this bike. IMO that is more than enough to justify just changing everything out as preventative maintenance.


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I also forgot to mention a fork oil level tool.
That's really an optional extra, there are plenty of ways to skin that cat without a specific tool. Same deal with the seal driver, in my experience. Both are nice to have but there are other options that don't cost $$$.


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post #10 of 76 Old 03-21-2019, 08:01 PM
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RJ, when where the bushings and seals last replaced? They’re not terrible expensive, and if you’re going to crack them open, you might as well go whole hog.
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post #11 of 76 Old 03-21-2019, 08:02 PM
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Only the first time.




I do the same. Once you're in there you might as well change all the wear parts. IIRC, OP said he is somewhere north of 50,000 miles on this bike. IMO that is more than enough to justify just changing everything out as preventative maintenance.




That's really an optional extra, there are plenty of ways to skin that cat without a specific tool. Same deal with the seal driver, in my experience. Both are nice to have but there are other options that don't cost $$$.


Mark

Motion Pro’s fork oil level tool is pretty cheap, sub $30 bucks, if I recall? It’s by far, the easiest way to set the oil level correctly.
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post #12 of 76 Old 03-21-2019, 08:31 PM
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You're going to need a cartridge removal tool and seal driver

GP Suspension BPF Seal Head Tool

and a seal driver


LOL, I agree and still have the seal driver tool from when I did my FZ6 forks. I can sell it to you real real cheap if it will work. I also have a VW tool to hold the crankshaft while removing the fully nut and a set a double square bits - if you don't know what they are that is very good. It means you have steered clear of VW engineering marvels.
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post #13 of 76 Old 03-22-2019, 08:16 AM
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Bushings you would be hard pressed to feel as "bad" until you have the forks apart cleaned and no seal and then slide it all back together- but at anything over 20k I bet you have a couple thousandths of slop, and you have originals in there at 50=K? you have more than 5 thousandths of sloppiness........ for $40 buy the damn bushings and put them in!
Even if you hack a measurement of thickness with a dial caliper you will measure more than 5 thou of difference new to your old........ I guarantee it!
Bike will work much better and you have oil travelling around the sloppy loose bushings now too, so not all of it is going through the damper rod making the system even less effective, not too mention all those wear particles in your oil and in your damper rod and in the compression and rebound stacks

full disassembly, cleaning to spotless then new parts and proper assembly!!! the only way to do it correctly!!!!
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post #14 of 76 Old 03-22-2019, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jd41 View Post
You need to remove the fork guide rod to change out the oil.

I also forgot to mention a fork oil level tool.
I always use the butt end of a dial caliper, as it is a very accurate depth measuring tool. And manual gives depth-from-top.

When it just begins to dent/deform the meniscus of the top of the oil...gtg

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post #15 of 76 Old 03-22-2019, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riverszzr View Post
Bushings you would be hard pressed to feel as "bad" until you have the forks apart cleaned and no seal and then slide it all back together- but at anything over 20k I bet you have a couple thousandths of slop, and you have originals in there at 50=K? you have more than 5 thousandths of sloppiness........ for $40 buy the damn bushings and put them in!
Even if you hack a measurement of thickness with a dial caliper you will measure more than 5 thou of difference new to your old........ I guarantee it!
Bike will work much better and you have oil travelling around the sloppy loose bushings now too, so not all of it is going through the damper rod making the system even less effective, not too mention all those wear particles in your oil and in your damper rod and in the compression and rebound stacks

full disassembly, cleaning to spotless then new parts and proper assembly!!! the only way to do it correctly!!!!
I have to go back in and do outer bushings. I don't have a brass drift long enough to get down in there.

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Yo momma so fat, Thanos had to snap twice.
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You can't not partake in the 23 flavors once thou hast suckled from the teat of the big gulp.
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Originally Posted by sbk1198 View Post
Sitzpinklers
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Originally Posted by Ey3l45h View Post
That thread is gayer than cum on a mustache
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Originally Posted by Scorpi0 View Post
I dont like to read. I just have opinions and assume theyre correct.
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